I’ve been lucky enough to have visited Sri Lanka many times, starting with a short trip that left me convinced I needed to come back for longer, and then doing exactly that on several occasions. It’s one of those places that’s easy to underestimate from the outside, a relatively small island off the southern tip of India, easy to overlook when you’re planning a big Asia trip. But in terms of what it packs in per square mile, it’s hard to beat.
In two weeks you can go from watching hundreds of wild elephants gather at a national park waterhole, to climbing an ancient rock fortress at sunrise, to sitting on a beach on the southern coast drinking something cold while you try to decide if you need to do anything else at all. The answer is usually no, but Sri Lanka has a way of making you want to see just one more thing.
This itinerary covers what Jess and I think is the best route for two weeks, taking in the cultural triangle in the north, the hill country around Kandy, the south coast, and the far south where you can go whale watching and leopard spotting within a day of each other. It’s based on our own experiences travelling the island, and I’ll share what worked, what surprised us, and what I’d do differently with the benefit of hindsight.
A quick note before we get started: two weeks in Sri Lanka is enough to feel like you’ve properly arrived somewhere, but it won’t be enough to see everything. Sri Lanka is one of those places where a second or third trip starts to feel not just likely but necessary. Consider yourself warned.
Table of Contents:
Why should you visit Sri Lanka?
The comparison I’ve heard most often is that Sri Lanka is like a condensed version of Southeast Asia, with beaches, mountains, wildlife, ancient ruins and great food all within a relatively compact space that you can actually get around without spending half your trip on overnight buses. Having now travelled widely across Asia, I think that’s a reasonable shorthand, though it undersells how distinct Sri Lanka feels as a place.
What makes it genuinely different from its neighbours is the combination of things that are within reach of each other. On one trip, we watched a herd of wild elephants gathering at Minneriya in the late afternoon light, ate a delicious fish curry in Galle the following evening, and were on a whale watching boat off the southern coast two days after that. Sri Lanka makes that kind of range feel easy rather than a slog.
The food is another reason to visit, particularly if you like curry (which I do!). Sri Lankan curry is its own thing, coconut-heavy and often quite hot, and the hoppers (bowl-shaped rice pancakes that show up at breakfast with an egg cracked into the centre) are something I still think about. There’s also a genuine warmth to the people that makes travelling here feel comfortable, particularly if you’re new to Asia.
It’s also worth noting that Sri Lanka went through a severe economic crisis in 2022, and tourism plays a real role in the country’s recovery. The people you’ll meet in guesthouses, restaurants and on tours are very often building back from a genuinely difficult few years. That context is worth keeping in mind, and is one more reason to travel here now rather than waiting.
When is the best time to visit Sri Lanka?
This isn’t as simple a question as it sounds, because Sri Lanka actually has two separate monsoon seasons that affect different parts of the island at different times of year. What this means in practice is that while it’s always raining somewhere on the island, it’s also always sunny somewhere else.
For the itinerary we’ve put together, which covers the cultural triangle, hill country, the west coast and the south, the best time to visit is broadly December through to the end of March. During these months the west and south coasts are at their best, the hill country is clear, and the cultural triangle sites are dry and comfortable to explore. This is also peak season though, so accommodation prices will be higher and some of the more popular spots will be busier.
If you want to visit outside of peak season, April through to early June can work reasonably well, with the advantage of fewer tourists and lower prices. July and August see the beginning of the southwest monsoon, which brings heavy rain to the west coast and hill country, though the east coast is actually at its best during these months if you want to add that to your plans.
The one period I’d suggest avoiding if you can is October and November, when rain can show up pretty much anywhere on the island and the weather is the most unpredictable. You’ll get cheaper prices, but there’s a reasonable chance a chunk of your trip will be wet.
Temperature wise, there isn’t a huge amount of variation across the year given how close to the equator Sri Lanka sits. Expect around 28 to 30 degrees Celsius on the coast, dropping to around 20 degrees as you head up into the hill country around Kandy. Humidity is high everywhere, so pack light, breathable clothing.
A 2 Week Sri Lanka Itinerary
Ok, let’s get going with this two-week itinerary!
Day 1: Colombo, City Exploration
A lot of people arrive in Colombo and immediately start thinking about how quickly they can leave. I’d encourage you to resist that instinct, at least for a day. Colombo has changed a lot in recent years and is genuinely worth a day of your time, both as a way to recover from what is often a long-haul flight and as an introduction to Sri Lankan food, culture and pace of life before you head into the countryside.
The city sprawls along the western coast, and the most rewarding way to explore it is on foot in the areas around Fort, Pettah and the Galle Face Green. The National Museum is worth a couple of hours if you want context for the archaeological sites you’ll be visiting later in the trip. Viharamahadevi Park is a pleasant green space in the middle of the city and a good spot to sit for a while and watch the world go by. The Old City Hall is worth a look from the outside, and the Gangaramaya Temple is one of the more interesting religious sites in the city, an eclectic mix of architectural styles that reflects decades of donations from Buddhist communities around the world.
The food scene in Colombo is one of the best reasons to spend time here. The city has a genuinely good range of restaurants covering everything from excellent local curry houses to more contemporary Sri Lankan cooking, and the cafe scene has grown considerably in recent years. If you only do one thing food-wise in Colombo, find somewhere that does a proper rice and curry lunch, the kind where you get a plate of rice surrounded by five or six small dishes of different curries and sambols. It’s one of the best introductions to Sri Lankan food you can have, and it will cost you very little.
We’ve stayed at the Cinnamon Lakeside on previous visits, which has a good pool and pleasant lake views and is well located for getting around the city. The Cinnamon Red property is another option worth considering, with a rooftop pool on the 23rd floor that has views across downtown Colombo. Both are in the mid-range bracket. You can check current prices and availability for both on Booking.com.
One day in Colombo is the right amount for this itinerary. It’s enough to get your bearings, eat well, and arrive in the cultural triangle the following morning feeling like the trip has properly started rather than still in transit mode.
Days 2 โ 4: Habarana, Elephants and UNESCO sights
Once you’re acclimatised and relaxed, it’s time to head into the country, and my suggestion would be to head north to what is known as Sri Lanka’s cultural triangle, around four or five hours drive from Colombo.
Base yourself near or in the town of Habarana, in the Anuradhapura district, and take some time to see the following sights:
Sigiriya โ an absolute must-visit when coming to Sri Lanka, this giant rock rises above the surrounding plains to a height of 200m, and served as the palatial fortress and home of one of Sri Lanka’s early Kings in the 5th century AD.
Nowadays it’s a UNESCO world heritage site and it is fascinating to visit, with ruins, frescoes, and of course, that mighty rock, which you can climb right to the top of via a series of fairly hair-raising stair cases. I’d suggest spending half a day here, and coming as early in the day as possible โ it gets very hot, particularly on the top of the rock.
Polonnaruwa โ another of Sri Lanka’s UNESCO world heritage sites, Polonnaruwa is the second oldest of Sri Lanka’s original kingdoms, having been here since at least 1070AD. Today it is one of the best preserved archaeological destinations in the country, and well worth your time to visit. It’s quite spread out, so you are likely going to need to hire some form of transport to get around the whole place. Bikes are a good option.
Minneriya National Park โ If all that culture is a bit much, fear not, this region has another magnificent attraction, in the form of the Sri Lankan wild elephant. These guys are a subspecies of the Asian elephant, so a little smaller than their African cousins.
Despite being on the endangered list, Sri Lanka has the highest density of wild elephants in Asia, so you are almost guaranteed to see elephants.
The best way to do so is by taking an elephant safari into one of the national parks, with Minneriya National Park being one excellent spot to do so, although this will vary depending on the time of year. We saw literally hundreds of elephants from the back of our jeep, a truly incredible experience.
The Golden Temple of Danbulla โ Last on this list, since this is the cultural triangle, you should also make time to visit the third UNESCO site in this area, the Golden Temple of Danbulla. This is Sri Lanka’s best-preserved cave temple complex, and has been a site of pilgrimage for over two thousand years.
In terms of accommodation for the Habarana region, I stayed at the Habarana Village by Cinnamon, which offered lovely chalet-style accommodation, a beautiful open plan restaurant/bar and a pool. Naturally there are many more options in the region, to suit any budget.
Days 5 โ 6: Kandy, Hill Country
After all the excitement of those UNESCO world heritage sites and elephant spotting, I recommend heading up into Sri Lanka’s hill country to the town of Kandy, which also happens to be a UNESCO world heritage site. Sri Lanka sure packs them in!
From Habarana, Kandy is roughly a two hour drive or around four hours by bus, and it marks a noticeable shift in the landscape as you head up into the hills. The temperature drops a few degrees, the air feels different, and the scenery changes from the dry scrub of the cultural triangle to lush green tea plantations and mist-covered ridges. It’s a welcome change after a few days of heat in the lowlands.
Kandy is Sri Lanka’s second largest city and has been a UNESCO world heritage site since 1988, primarily because of the Temple of the Tooth Relic, which is the single most important Buddhist site in Sri Lanka and one of the most sacred in the world. The temple houses a tooth said to belong to the Buddha, brought to Sri Lanka in the 4th century AD, and it draws pilgrims from across Asia year round. Even if religious sites aren’t usually your thing, it’s worth visiting for the atmosphere alone, particularly during the evening puja ceremony when the drumming and chanting fill the temple complex. Go at dusk rather than during the day if you can.
Beyond the temple, Kandy is a pleasant place to spend a day or two. The lake in the centre of town is good for an evening walk, the Royal Botanical Gardens at Peradeniya just outside the city are genuinely impressive and worth a couple of hours, and the market area around the Kandy city centre is good for picking up spices, tea and the kind of small things you find yourself buying in Sri Lanka without entirely meaning to.
Two days in Kandy is enough for this itinerary. If you have flexibility, there’s a case for spending a third day here and using it to take the train towards Ella, which is one of the most scenic rail journeys in Asia and something a lot of visitors include in a Sri Lanka trip. The route winds through the hill country tea estates, crossing bridges and passing through tunnels with views that make it worth the slow pace. If you can fit it in, even just taking the train for a few hours before doubling back is a worthwhile experience.
For accommodation in Kandy, the city has a good range of guesthouses and small hotels in the hills above the lake, many of which have views across the water. Booking something with a view is worth the marginal extra cost. Check current options on Booking.com and filter for properties with a lake or garden view.
A Note on the Kandy to Ella Train
If your itinerary has any flexibility at all, the train journey from Kandy through the hill country toward Ella is worth building in. It’s widely considered one of the most scenic train journeys in Asia, and having done it, I’d say that reputation is justified.
The train winds through the tea estate country of the central highlands, crossing old stone viaducts, passing through tunnels and slowing through small stations where vendors sell snacks through the windows. The scenery changes constantly and the whole thing moves slowly enough that you can actually take it in. It takes around seven hours from Kandy to Ella, which sounds like a lot but doesn’t feel that way.
The most photographed section is between Nanu Oya and Ella, where the track crosses the Nine Arch Bridge, one of the best examples of colonial-era railway engineering in Sri Lanka. The bridge is also accessible on foot from Ella if you want a closer look.
This particular itinerary doesn’t route through Ella, but if you have an extra day or two to spare in the hill country, taking the train south before looping back to the coast is a worthwhile detour in our opinion. Alternatively, you could restructure the hill country section to include an overnight in Ella, which would mean a slightly longer drive to the south coast but would add one of Sri Lanka’s best experiences to the trip.
Book train tickets in advance if you can, particularly for the observation car seats which are the most popular and do sell out. You can book through the Sri Lanka Railways website or through a local guesthouse or agent.
Days 7 โ 10: Galle, Beaches and Forts
From Kandy, the drive south to Galle takes around three to four hours depending on traffic, and it’s worth taking your time rather than rushing. The road drops back down from the hills and the landscape shifts again, this time to the green coastal lowlands of the southwest, with rubber and coconut plantations lining the road as you approach the coast.
Galle is the kind of place that rewards slowing down. The old fort, a Dutch colonial walled city that dominates the headland at the southern end of the modern town, is one of the best preserved examples of European colonial architecture in Asia and a lovely place to explore on foot. The streets inside the fort walls are lined with old Dutch townhouses, many of which have been converted into boutique hotels, restaurants and small shops. It’s easy to spend a full day just wandering without any particular plan.
We’ve visited Galle on a couple of occasions and the thing that has stayed with me most isn’t any single sight but the overall feeling of the place in the early morning, when the fort is quiet and the light is good for photography. The lighthouse at the southern tip of the fort, the old gate, and the ramparts looking out over the Indian Ocean are all worth your time as a photographer. The best light is in the hour after sunrise before the tour groups arrive.
Beyond the fort itself, the Galle area has some good beaches nearby, though the best beaches on the south coast are a bit further east toward Mirissa and Tangalle. If beach time is a priority, use Galle as your base for the first day or two and then move along the coast. Four days in this section of the itinerary gives you time to explore the fort properly, spend a day on the beach, and still have an evening or two to sit in a good restaurant and eat well. The seafood along this stretch of coast is very good.
On the food front, Galle has a better range of restaurants than anywhere else on this itinerary outside Colombo, with options ranging from excellent local curry houses just outside the fort walls to more upmarket places inside the fort itself. Budget travellers will eat well here. So will people who want a proper sit-down dinner with a decent wine list.
For accommodation, staying inside the fort is worth doing for at least one or two nights if your budget allows, as the experience of being in the old city after the day visitors have left is quite different from staying in the modern town. There are good guesthouse options outside the fort walls at more affordable prices too. Check current availability on Booking.com here.
Days 11 โ 13: The Far South โ Whales, Leopards and More Beaches
If you can tear yourself away from Galle and surrounds, then I can recommend heading even further along the south coast. The further you go, the more deserted and gorgeous the beaches become. When I visited, these beach towns were everything I had ever hoped for from previous trips to Asia, but never quite found. You should definitely visit before everyone else figures this out, to wander beaches lit by candle-light against a back drop of surf.
If you do go into the south, a couple of things you should definitely do:
Visit Yala National Park โ before I visited Sri Lanka I had no idea how incredible the wildlife viewing opportunities were. Yala National Park is full of wildlife, but the main attraction is without doubt the leopard. Yala has one of the highest densities of Leopard anywhere in the world, meaning your chance to see these animals is pretty good.
Go Whale Watching โ the seas off the southern coast of Sri Lanka are filled with all sorts of marine life, but the big draw are the whales.
I took a trip from Mirissa with Raja and the Whales, and I have to say I was impressed by how the boat operator put the whales first, with the captain explaining how he wasn’t going to get too close, or “chase” the whales, as many of the other boats around us were doing.
They also work with local scientific organisations, collecting data on the whales, and at one point during the trip the captain even hailed a passing tanker and gave them a verbal dressing down for their illegal waste dumping.
I had a thrilling morning of whale watching, we saw blue whales, dolphins and turtles, and the boat operators kept us fed with eggs, toast, cake, and for those who needed them, sea sickness tablets! Highly recommended.
And that’s the end of this two week Sri Lanka trip itinerary!
There is obviously a lot more of Sri Lanka to explore, including the east coast and the far north, and you could easily compress the above itinerary into a week if you wanted to move faster, but since going slow and taking everything in is how I prefer to travel if I can, that’s how this itinerary has worked out.
Now, let’s look at some practicalities of travelling in Sri Lanka, including budget, health, staying safe, and more.
Sri Lanka Itinerary Overview
- Day 1: Colombo, City Exploration
- Days 2 โ 4: Habarana, Elephants and UNESCO sights
- Days 5 โ 6: Kandy, Hill Country
- Days 7 โ 10: Galle, Beaches and Forts
- Days 11 โ 13: The Far South โ Whales, Leopards and More Beaches
How much does it cost to travel in Sri Lanka?
Sri Lanka’s reputation as a budget destination is mostly deserved, though there are a few areas where costs can catch you off guard if you’re not expecting them.
Accommodation ranges from around $15 to $25 per night for a clean, comfortable guesthouse or homestay, through to $40 to $80 for a mid-range hotel with a pool. Coastal areas like Galle and Mirissa tend to be pricier than inland locations, and prices across the board are higher during peak season from December to March. Mid-range travellers commonly spend around $60 to $120 per day in total, covering accommodation, food, transport and occasional guided activities
Food is one area where you can definitely save. A meal at a local restaurant or curry house will typically cost between $2 and $6, and the quality is often excellent. Tourist-oriented restaurants on the coast will charge more, but even then you’re rarely looking at more than $10 to $15 for a main course.
One area to watch is entrance fees for the major sites. Sri Lanka charges tourist prices that are significantly higher than local prices at most of its headline attractions, and if you’re planning to visit several in a short period it adds up quickly. Sigiriya costs around $30 per person, and several other major cultural triangle sites are similarly priced.
If you’re planning three or four of the big UNESCO sites in the cultural triangle, budget around $80 to $100 per person just for entrance fees for that section of the trip. National park safaris are an additional cost on top, typically running $40 to $70 per person for a half-day jeep safari.
Transport is generally affordable. The train network is scenic and inexpensive, tuk-tuks are cheap for short hops within a town, and hiring a private driver for longer journeys works out to roughly $50 to $80 per day, which split between two people is very reasonable for the convenience it provides.
As a rough overall guide, a couple travelling at a comfortable mid-range pace, staying in decent guesthouses, eating a mix of local and tourist restaurants, and visiting the main sights, should budget around $100 to $150 per day for both of you, excluding flights and the ETA visa fee.
Where to Stay In Sri Lanka and How to Get Around
Accommodation
There’s no shortage of accommodation options in Sri Lanka, from upscale hotels, to boutique guesthouses, to hostels and B&B’s. Prices are not extravagant, but Sri Lanka isn’t a budget destination either.
On my two trips to Sri Lanka I was hosted primarily by Cinnamon Hotels, who own a series of three to five star properties all around the island, and are an excellent choice if you are looking for upscale, great-value comfort. I stayed in three of their properties at varying levels of luxury, and enjoyed the friendly welcome, hospitality and amazing food at all of them.
There are of course numerous other options depending on your budget. I’d be remiss if I didn’t mention another great option if you’re heading down south โ the Cantaloupe properties. These guys hosted me for four nights of relaxation at their two properties, Cantaloupe Levels and Cantaloupe Aqua, both near Galle, and made sure I had an amazing time.
These are very different properties, with Levels being more of an upscale boutique hotel with a romantic, relaxing vibe, whilst Aqua was a beach front property that was perfect for a spot of surfing and sun. If you want something a bit smaller and intimate in this part of Sri Lanka, these two properties should have something to suit. See more tips on getting a great deal on accommodation in Sri Lanka at the end of the post.
Getting Around
There’s an extensive road network in Sri Lanka, some of which is brand new (the highway from Colombo to the south is excellent), and much of which is a little worse for wear.
Being a passenger in a vehicle can be a fairly hair-raising experience, although as the roads aren’t so great, often the speeds aren’t so great either. If you want to drive yourself, here’s our recommended way to get the best deals on car hire, searching across all the major providers to find you the best deal.
The cheapest way to get around is going to be on public transport, with buses running all over the place. They are likely to be crowded, slow and uncomfortable, but hey, it’ll be an experience. Some routes offer more expensive air conditioned buses with guaranteed seating, although they travel on the same roads so don’t expect to get there any quicker.
There are also three wheeled tuk-tuks for hire, which looked entirely terrifying. A better option would be to hire a car with a driver, which will likely work out relatively good value for money, and the driver might double as a tour-guide. If you don’t go on a full blown tour, I’d suggest that this might be the next easiest way to get yourself to all the major sights listed on the itinerary below.
If time is more important to you than money, then you can also get around the country by air. Cinnamon Air operates a charter service from Colombo, with which you can get around the country relatively easy. They also do sight-seeing services. I did a scenic flight over Sigiriya, which was a magnificent experience.
Finally, one experience not to be missed is a train ride. I took the train from Kandy to Colombo, an incredibly scenic journey through forests and fields. Some of the trains offer scenic observation cars, and if you splash for a more expensive ticket, the carriage could be air conditioned. There’s a good train network across Sri Lanka, and I would recommend this as a solid option.
Practicalities for traveling in Sri Lanka
Currency in Sri Lanka
The local currency in Sri Lanka is the Sri Lankan Rupee, which is easily exchangeable for most major world currencies.
Credit cards are also accepted, although it’s always useful to have cash on you, particularly in more rural areas or at local restaurants and smaller hostels and guesthouses.
Electricity in Sri Lanka
Sri Lanka uses a 220v system. A little confusingly in my experience, different places had different types of plug. Some properties used the British three pin square shaped plugs, whilst others used a three pin round plug design (also found in India).
Either way, you’re most likely going to need an adaptor, which you’ll be able to buy on arrival, or you can pick one up from Amazon before you go.
Tipping in Sri Lanka
Tipping is part of life in Sri Lanka, so it’s advisable to have some rupees to hand. For things like porterage you’re looking at around 50-100 rupees, for restaurants, a 10% tip is fairly normal. This might be automatically added to your bill.
Crime in Sri Lanka
Sri Lanka has been regarded as a safe destination in previous years, however, like everywhere in the world violence and terrorism are an unfortunate reality – you can read about terror attacks in the country here. We advise following the advice of your countries foreign office, state department or relevant government body when travelling to any destination.
Violent crime against visitors is certainly uncommon, but as always, be mindful of yourself and your possessions. You should always take the usual precautions with your valuables, using the hotel safe if there is one available, and not leaving valuables in plain sight.
Health in Sri Lanka
The tap water in Sri Lanka is not generally advisable to drink, so either drink bottled water (widely available), or travel with a water purifier like this.
Sri Lanka also has malaria, although it is rare, so your requirement for anti-malarials will likely depend on where you are visiting. I’d very much suggest going to visit your doctor and getting up to date advice as to whether or not you need to take anti-malarials, as well as any other shots you might need for your trip.
For current health advice from the UK’s National Health Service for travel to Sri Lanka, see here.
Finally, Sri Lanka is a tropical country with a hot climate, so the biggest risk you are likely going to face is dehydration, which can make you very ill. Read my post for more on how to spot the signs of dehydration as well as how to treat and, more importantly, avoid it altogether!
Visas for Sri Lanka
Most visitors to Sri Lanka need an Electronic Travel Authorization (ETA) before they can enter the country. Sri Lanka requires all tourists to obtain their ETA online before departure rather than on arrival at the airport, so this is something you need to sort out before you travel rather than leaving it to the last minute.
The ETA is applied for through the official government portal at eta.gov.lk. The process is straightforward: you complete the online form, pay the fee, and receive confirmation by email, usually within a few hours. The tourist ETA allows a double-entry visit of up to 30 days from the date of arrival, and can be extended through the Department of Immigration and Emigration for up to a total of 270 days if you want to stay longer.
The standard tourist ETA fee depends on where you are from, and varies from $20 to $50 USD. It’s worth checking the current fee on the official government site before you apply as this has been subject to change. Sri Lanka has been working on a scheme to waive the ETA fee entirely for tourists from around 40 countries, including the US, UK, Canada and Australia, though implementation has been repeatedly delayed. Check the official site before you travel as this may have been resolved by the time you’re reading this.
One important practical note: the ETA system has experienced technical issues at various points, and there have been reports of third-party websites charging inflated fees to process applications. Always apply directly through the official government site at eta.gov.lk and avoid any third-party services that appear in search results.
Internet access in Sri Lanka
Sri Lankan internet is passable, but not terribly fast, and Wi-Fi connections are often a bit flakey. Still, I had no trouble getting online everywhere I went.
If you have an unlocked phone I’d advise picking up a SIM card at the airport, an extremely simple and cost effective option.
I used a Mobitel SIM card all around the country on both trips with no problem. You can expect 3G speeds in most cities, and 2G speeds as you get more rural. For up to date information on networks and pricing, this website is an invaluable resource.
Cultural Considerations
Sri Lankans society is fairly modest, so dress appropriately. If visiting culturally important sites, showing anything above the knee, or having bare shoulders, is generally frowned upon.
You will also likely have to remove footwear and hats to enter temples and the like, and be respectful of imagery of deities. It’s considered rude for example to stand with your back to certain statues, so keep that in mind when taking photos. Swimwear is fine on the beach, but not for general wear about town.
Language in Sri Lanka
There are two official languages in Sri Lanka, Sinhala and Tamil. As a visitor though, you will find English (spoken fluently by 10% of the population) will serve you very well, although of course learning some key words like “hello” and “thank you” in the local languages is always nice.
What to Pack for Sri Lanka
Sri Lanka’s combination of heat, humidity, cultural sites and outdoor activities means what you pack will make a real difference to how comfortable your trip is.
Clothing should be lightweight and breathable. Linen and moisture-wicking fabrics are worth investing in if you don’t already have them. You’ll want to cover your shoulders and knees when visiting temples and religious sites, so having at least one or two outfits that can do that without being uncomfortably hot is useful. A lightweight scarf or sarong is handy to carry as a cover-up and takes up almost no space.
For the hill country section around Kandy, pack a light layer for the evenings. It’s not cold by most standards but it’s noticeably cooler than the coast, particularly after dark, and having something to put on makes the evenings more comfortable.
Sun protection is important year round. Bring a high-factor sunscreen and reapply it more often than you think you need to, particularly if you’re spending time at the cultural triangle sites where there’s not much shade. Reef-safe sunscreen is worth using given how much time you’re likely to spend in and around the ocean on the south coast.
Mosquito repellent is worth having, particularly for the national parks and more rural areas. DEET-based repellent is the most effective option. Malaria risk in Sri Lanka is low in most tourist areas but dengue fever is present, so covering up at dawn and dusk and using repellent is sensible practice.
Comfortable walking shoes are essential for Sigiriya and Polonnaruwa, both of which involve a fair amount of walking on uneven ground. Sandals are fine for the coast but you’ll be grateful for proper shoes in the cultural triangle.
A small dry bag or waterproof cover for your camera and phone is useful given the humidity and the possibility of afternoon rain, particularly in the hill country. If you’re visiting during the shoulder season, a compact rain jacket takes up very little space and earns its place in the bag.
Finally, cash. ATMs can be unreliable in smaller towns and national park areas, so it’s worth carrying more Sri Lankan Rupees than you think you’ll need when leaving a major city.
Getting to and from Sri Lanka
I flew to Sri Lanka with SriLankan Airlines, the national flag carrier, who offer direct flights to Colombo from a number of destinations in Europe, Asia and the Middle East.
Planes are modern and the service is excellent, so I have no hesitation recommending them. Reaching Sri Lanka from the US is a little more tricky, as there are no direct flights.
When searching for flight deals, I generally find Priceline to be one of the best options.You can check them out here to see how much it will cost you to get to Sri Lanka.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is two weeks enough time for Sri Lanka?
Two weeks is a genuinely good amount of time for Sri Lanka, enough to cover the main highlights without feeling like you’re racing from one place to the next. You’ll be able to take in the cultural triangle in the north, the hill country around Kandy, and the south coast, which covers the vast majority of what most visitors come to see.
If you have less time, ten days is workable but you’d need to be more selective about which stops to prioritize. If you have more than two weeks, the east coast opens up as a beautiful addition, particularly between June and September when it’s at its sunniest.
Do I need a visa to visit Sri Lanka?
Most visitors need an Electronic Travel Authorization (ETA), which must be applied for online at eta.gov.lk before you travel. The standard tourist ETA costs around $50 USD for most visitors and allows a stay of up to 30 days. Sri Lanka has been working toward waiving this fee for visitors from around 40 countries including the US, UK, Canada and Australia, so check the official site for the current situation before you apply. Either way, apply well before your departure date rather than leaving it to the last minute.
Do I need a car or driver for this itinerary?
You don’t strictly need a car, as Sri Lanka has a reasonable train network and tuk-tuks can cover shorter distances. That said, having a private driver for the sections between major stops makes the trip considerably more relaxed, particularly for the cultural triangle where the sights are spread out. We used a combination of trains (the Kandy to Ella train route in particular is a scenic highlight worth doing for its own sake), tuk-tuks for getting around within towns, and a private driver for longer overland transfers. It’s not expensive to hire a driver for the day, and negotiating a multi-day arrangement with a local driver will generally get you a better rate.
Is Sri Lanka safe to visit?
Sri Lanka is generally a safe destination for tourists. The civil war ended in 2009 and the country has been welcoming visitors in large numbers ever since, with over 1.7 million tourist arrivals in 2025 alone. The 2019 Easter Sunday bombings were a significant event but security has been considerably strengthened since then. The usual common-sense precautions apply: be aware of your belongings in crowded places, agree on tuk-tuk fares before you get in, and use the official ETA website rather than third-party services. As with anywhere, checking your government’s travel advisory before you go is a sensible step.
What currency does Sri Lanka use, and can I use cards?
The local currency is the Sri Lankan Rupee (LKR). Cards are accepted at larger hotels, restaurants and shops in tourist areas, but cash is useful for smaller guesthouses, local restaurants, tuk-tuks, and market purchases. It’s worth carrying a reasonable amount of cash when you’re heading to more rural areas or national parks. ATMs are available in most towns, though they can be unreliable in smaller places so it’s worth withdrawing cash before you leave a major city.
Further reading and information
Two weeks in Sri Lanka goes quickly. That’s both a warning and, in a strange way, part of the appeal. The country covers a lot of ground in a small space, and by the time you’ve climbed Sigiriya in the early morning light, taken a jeep through Minneriya as the elephants gather at the waterhole, eaten your way through the south coast, and sat on the ramparts in Galle watching the sun go down over the Indian Ocean, you’ll have a fairly clear sense of why people keep coming back.
If you have questions about any part of the itinerary, or want advice on adjusting it to fit a different timeframe or travel style, leave a comment below and I’ll do my best to help. And if you’ve already been to Sri Lanka and have tips of your own to add, I’d love to hear them.
Looking for more reading to help plan your Sri Lanka trip? Here are some resources to help you out from the web:
- Our 1 week Sri Lanka itinerary, which focuses on a more luxury trip
- A Budget Traveller’s Guide to Sri Lanka by fellow blogger What’s Dave Doing
- The Rough Guide website‘s resource section for Sri Lanka
- Wikivoyage has a comprehensive page on Sri Lanka
- My four day Sri Lanka trip report which covers taking a private tour for a shorter trip, with a focus on luxury travel, tea and leopards
If you prefer your books to be somewhat more tangible (or offline readable at least), these are the most recently updated guidebooks out there at the moment, available on Amazon:
And that’s it! We hope this post is useful to help you plan your own 2 week Sri Lanka itinerary!
Have you visited Sri Lanka yet, or is it on your to-do list? Let me know in the comments below!

































Ajay says
Lovely article
Laurence Norah says
Thank you ๐
Leah Drey says
Hi!
Thanks for sharing this. I just have a few questions about getting back from Yalla to the airport/
– Can you share how long it would take to get from Yala to the airport? Google is failing me.
– Would you recommend driving or alternative method of transport to get back to the airport?
– Would it make sense to return from Colombo airport or do any of the others make more sense?
Laurence Norah says
Hey Leah,
So it’s around a 6 hour drive from Yala if I recall correctly. Driving is likely to be the best option, I believe there are also flights from a nearby airport from Yala to Colombo, but I’m not sure how regular they are.
When you say return from, do you mean fly from out of Sri Lanka? I think that’s the only logical option to be honest. A new international airport, Mattala, did open in 2013, but I don’t think there are any scheduled flights from there.
Have a great trip!
Laurence
Chris says
Hi Keith Forbes
I’m also taking my 2 teenage daughters to Sri Lanka at Xmas next year so I’d love to know what your daughters thought of the trip and what their favourite parts of it were.
keith forbes says
Lawrence,
Thanks for taking the time to put this all together. Great information and really well structured.
We’re travelling to Sri Lanka for NYE this year thru to mid Jan with two 16yr olds and a 13 year old – all girls. Any tips on Galle or nearby for NYE? Also is there a central resource for train travel between the key locations?
We arrive after lunch so we’re thinking of getting the train south (skipping Colombo) a few days around Calle then onto Yala, up to Kandy and if we have time Habarana and surrounds or maybe Colombo for a few days.
Thanks,
Keith
Laurence Norah says
Hi Keith,
My pleasure! For train travel, I always like the man in seat 61, and he has a good entry on Sri Lanka which should be useful:
https://www.seat61.com/SriLanka.htm
I’ve not stayed in Sri Lanka for New Years, so can’t comment, but the Galle area is lovely, as are the surrounds. It sounds like your itinerary is a good one! Have a great trip ๐
Zahava says
Hi Laurence. That’s The best blog I found, regarding Sri Lanka. Thanks!
We are planning a 2 weeks trip during the Christmas break, with 3 children 11, 16, 20.
I Was wondering what itinerary would you choose if we would like to spend the last week relaxing at the beach?
Also, one of my daughters is Celiac, do you think the hotels you recommended will be able to
Attend her needs of should we look for a more upscale hotels for that reason?
Zahava. London.
Laurence Norah says
Hi Zahava,
Thanks very much! So for that time of year, the south west of the country is going to be in its dry season, so you should have better weather in the south west of the country. So I would suggest the region of the coast from Galle and south would be the best option, it has some great beaches and you should get the best weather. Just be aware that prices will be a bit higher in this region at this time of year.
If it was me I would probably follow this itinerary fairly closely, as the last week is easily adjustable to take in more beaches and less sight-seeing ๐
I’m not an expert of Celiac travel, but I do know friends of mine who travel do find the higher end hotels are often better equipped to deal with this sort of thing. It might be worth reaching out and asking before booking anything, just to be sure.
Have a great trip!
Laurence
Susie S says
Thanks for the great write up! You mentioned one option for getting around would be to hire a driver. Can you recommend how to book a driver? For example, from Colombo to Habarana and from there to Kandy. And Kandy to Ella. Thanks!
Vicki Majella Hansford says
Hi Laurence I really like you blog
Do you think it is necessary to pre book accommodation before we leave Australia or,can you rock up in places and be sure to find something
Thanks Vicki
Laurence says
Hi Vicki!
I think in many cases you can just rock up, although it depends on the time of year and where you are visiting. We also generally find we get better deals by booking in advance for some reason. So yes, you should be fine, with caveats ๐
Have an awesome trip ๐
Amar Hussain says
Great post Laurence. Looks like you had better weather in Galle than we did!
One thing missing from your itinerary is the Kandy to Ella train ride which is super scenic. The times, fares and how far in advance it books up stumps a lot of people as there isn’t a lot of accurate information online.
I’ve put up an itinerary here and it includes all the info for the train ride – http://gapyearescape.com/backpacking-sri-lanka-two-week-travel-itinerary/
Laurence says
Thanks Amar – yes, we had a great trip and wonderful weather most of the time. Thanks for sharing your post, much appreciated!
Green Global Travel says
Thanks for sharing these great pictures and travel tips! It’s always important to know what kind of plug is needed and if tipping is normal. – Janeen
Laurence says
My pleasure, thanks for commenting ๐
Laurence says
I completely agree, the mid-range options are excellent value for money ๐