On the 10th of June 1944, four days after D-Day, a retreating German SS Panzer division entered the town of Oradour-Sur-Glane in the Haute-Vienne region of France and killed 642 men, women and children. This was essentially the entire population of the town.
This was the worst civilian atrocity carried out in France during World War II.
Oradour-Sur-Glane has been preserved in the state that it was left in on that day, as a memorial to the hundreds of civilians who lost their lives.
In this post I’m going to share with you some information for visiting Oradour-Sur-Glane, as well as our experiences from our visits to Oradour.
Where is Oradour-Sur-Glane?
Oradour-Sur-Glane, often referred to as Oradour, is in the Haute Vienne department of France. The original town that you visit stands in ruin, but a new town has been built nearby which shares the name.
The closest major town with rail and flight connections is Limoges, around 15 miles away.
Note that there are a number of towns in France called Oradour, including Oradour Sur Vayres, which is just nearby. So if using GPS for navigation, be sure to pick the correct one!
How to Get to Oradour-Sur-Glane
The best way to reach Oradour-Sur-Glane is by car, and it’s around a 20-30 minute drive from Limoges. Limoges has good rail connections across France, and also has an airport with flight connections. So you can either rent a car and drive it, or arrange a taxi.
It is also possible to take a bus from Limoges to Oradour-Sur-Glane. However, do be aware that buses are not that frequent, with only 2-3 services a day. The bus is Ligne 12, and you can see timetables on this site.
When is Oradour-Sur-Glane open?
The ruined village of Oradour-sur-Glane is open year round with the exception of Christmas Day and New Years Day. The village opens at 9am throughout the year, and closes between 5pm and 7pm depending on whether it is summer or winter.
As well as the ruined village, there is also the “Centre de la Mémoire”. This is a large visitor centre which tells the story of the village and its inhabitants, which is open from the 1st February to the 15th December.
When the visitor center is open, access to the village is through the visitor center. When the visitor centre closes, you access the village through a separate gate.
Is there an Entrance Fee for Oradour-Sur-Glane?
Visiting the actual village is free of charge throughout the year. For the Centre de la Mémoire, there is a an exhibition which is free, and there is an exhibit and video which is paid. There is also a shop and toilets at the visitor center. Sometimes there are also special exhibits which may have a separate fee.
Parking is available on-site and is also free.
Where to Stay Near Oradour-Sur-Glane
There are a few options in the new Oradour-Sur-Glane village which are within walking distance of the site. These are:
- L’Ancienne épicerie – a well reviewed small guesthouse with free wifi, free parking and a terrace
- Petit Coin pres du Moulin – a small bed and breakfast with free wifi and free parking
- La Croix De Camargue – another well reviewed small bed and breakfast with free wifi and parking
Of course there are plenty more options in the surrounding area and further afield, and you can see some options here.
Be aware that if you visit during one of the memorial days, such as the 11th November or 10th June, hotels in the area book up far in advance. So do keep this in mind if visiting Oradour-Sur-Glane on one of these days.
Our Experience Visiting Oradour-Sur-Glane
I’ve visited Oradour-Sur-Glane three times, twice in winter and once in summer. This trip report is from our first visit, which we took on a gloriously sunny winter morning.
The first thing that struck me, walking down the gutted and empty streets to the sound of birdsong, was quite how large this village had been. This was no backwater hamlet. This had been a thriving town. A tram line ran down the centre of the street, and there were countless houses on either side, and on the side streets leading away.
So often when I have heard about war atrocities, the numbers involved are unimaginable to my mind. How can I imagine six million – the number of Jews killed during the Holocaust? It’s just so big of a number that it stuns my imagination. It becomes almost unreal.
Even 642 is a tricky number to put into perspective. Visiting Oradour-Sur-Glane brought that number to life for me.
The houses are labelled. Some labels state who used to live there. Other depict the function of the building. There were cafes, butchers, bakers, hairdressers. A school. An entire community of people, who up to the 10th of June, had no doubt been hoping to get through the war alive.
The very human nature of the village is what is perhaps so striking. This is no concentration camp designed from the outset for mass murder. This was a place where people lived out their lives, where families were raised. That is incredibly apparent, even sixty years on, and it is terribly moving.
The reasons behind the events of the 10th June are not entirely clear. It seems there may have been a misunderstanding, that the village was mistaken for another village, thought to be harbouring resistance fighters. Personally I think trying to apply reasoning to acts like this is folly of itself. There can never be a reason to murder this many people in such a brutal manner.
At the end of the village street, which runs for about two thirds of a kilometre, is the village church. This was where the most unspeakable of acts was carried out. Into this church were herded the women and children of the village.
Of the 241 women and 205 children who were herded in, some only weeks old, only one made it out alive. The rest were first gassed, then shot, then burned.
Today, the only obvious visual reminder of this atrocity are the bullet holes in the church walls and altar.
Within the village grounds, by the cemetery, sits a memorial, where personal artefacts and the stories to accompany them can be found. The cemetery holds all that is left of the towns inhabitants, as well as a wall listing all the victims.
Just next to the original town of Oradour-Sur-Glane is the new town. Walking around here was another difficult experience. It’s another town, full of life and people. But for the acts that occurred on the 10th of June 1944, this town wouldn’t be here as it is.
The dead village is the one where, were the world a kinder place, the streets should be alive and vibrant.
I don’t really have brilliant closing words for this post. War is clearly a terrible thing. And it’s not something that has gone away in the time since this tragedy. I’m just lucky to live in a time period where the countries I live in are relatively peaceful.
Visiting places like Oradour-Sur-Glane help remind me of that fact. Thanks for reading, and as always, do share your thoughts in the comments section below.
Wendy says
Me and my husband visited during a holiday in haute vienne. Nothing has ever had such a profound effect on me. There is such a sadness there, it was so quiet and reading the names of the shops and businesses really brought it home. My abiding thought after visiting the church was for the German soldiers. this might sound odd but I could not get out of my head, what goes through your mind when you have committed such a terrible thing? Do you leave and go and have a cup of tea or something to eat? What does it do to you? Did some of them lose their minds. It is unfathomable that you could be a part of such atrocity and ever lead a normal life again. It is so tragic. My heart goes out to all the villagers and the dear little children that had their lives ended in such a way. It is the same in all war.
Laurence Norah says
Hi Wendy,
Thank you for sharing your experience and your thoughts. It is a very difficult place to visit and I cannot understand what would be going through the minds of people who commit acts like this. I do know that the majority of them did not have to live with it for very long as I believe the majority of the division that carried out the attack was killed in action a few days later. But certainly many people have survived after taking part in awful atrocities like this, and I have no idea how they go about their daily lives.
Thank you for stopping by 🙂
Laurence
Ian J Gordon says
I am a disabled British veteran soldier, this history is well known in our military history, and is abhorred by us all. It was only one of many atrocities committed by the Nazi’s but was the worst ever and there should be no reason or excuses made for it. My daughter and her family are visiting there today even as I leave this comment .War brings out the worst and sometimes the dignity in the ones engaged. in the conflict but it should still be a last resort and NEVER should there be incidents such as this . AS Harry Patch the last great veteran said ,NO MORE WAR.Harry passed away recently, thank you for the privilege of allowing me to comment . Ian J Gordon ex British Army
Laurence Norah says
Hi Ian,
Thank you for your comment and also for your service. I hope your daughter and her family had a good visit to Oradour, it is a very moving place to visit. I definitely agree, there should never be things like this.
Many thanks for stopping by to leave your thoughts, it is appreciated,
Laurence
Robert says
Going to be in Oradour-Sur-Glans later today. Thank you for your article as it gave us insightful information about the visit. Wishing you all the best.
Laurence Norah says
Our pleasure Robert, I hope you have a good visit. Do let us know your thoughts on it if you get a moment.
Joe says
Das Reich were not retreating. The division had been re-fitting in the Montauban area and had been ordered north to the invasion beaches. As part of Allied strategy, the French Resistance were to harry them constantly.
Laurence Norah says
Hi Joe,
Thanks very much for the clarification, appreciated!
Laurence
Tracey Copsey says
Hi,
Well your parents certainly made us welcome and more…… Their campsite is just so tranquil and just what we were looking for.
ORADOUR SUR GLANES was very sad, but an experience to be had……
Travelling around, the Dordogne and seeing it’s beautiful landmarks, (too many to see in 10 days), meeting interesting people and hearing their stories, the whole experience has been perfect.
I shall continue to watch and read “Finding the Universe” ……..
Best wishes Tracey and John
Laurence Norah says
Hi Tracey!
We’re so pleased you had a good time, and yes, Manzac is a pretty special place 🙂 I’m pleased you visit Oradour, it’s a place that needs to be visited for sure, even though it’s a sad experience.
Happy you enjoyed your time in the Dordogne!
Best
Laurence
Margaret Norah says
Hi Tracey,
What a very small world, I got goose pimples as I read down through your comments and discovered you are coming to stay with us at Manzac. looking forward to meeting you both on the 20th!
Tracey Copsey says
Hi,
Me & my partner are camping in France very soon and I have been looking for places of interest to visit. Since my first visit I have become interested in French history and found “you” when reading about ORADOUR SUR GLANES. Your article A VILLAGE OF DEATH AND MEMORY IN FRANCE and photo’s were moving and we will be visiting this village with anticipation of tears and goose pimple, hair on arms standing up moments!
I also read about you and Jessica and befriended you on Facebook. I shall read and follow with interest.
People often say “if I had my time again I would……….. ” My wish would be TRAVEL and see the world, grab every opportunity to experience something new……. Looks like you two were meant to meet and have a near perfect, happy life and it’ll be great to share your experiences and sights through your writing and photo’s.
Thank you.
Tracey
Laurence Norah says
Hi Tracey!
Thanks very much, what a lovely comment 🙂 I hope you have a lovely trip in France, and the Oradour experience is what you are looking for. It is certainly a moving place! I’m not sure if you have already found a campsite, but just in case you are still looking, my parents actually run a small campsite in the Dordogne (the #1 rated campsite on Tripadvisor for the region in fact!). You can see that here: https://www.manzac-ferme.com/
Have a great trip!
Laurence
Tracey Copsey says
Hello again!
What a small world, I can’t believe it but your parent’s campsite is the actual one we are staying at in a couple of weeks! We are so looking forward to this and have read such great “reports”.
Thanks for your reply.
Tracey
Laurence Norah says
Haha! Well, I know they’ll make you feel welcome 🙂 Have a great time!