Ok, so I know it’s not really called Mount Doom. Hardy hobbits did not trudge many miles bearing the one ring of power and throw it into the fires of this mountain, which dominates the landscape here for miles around.
Yes, it’s real name is a Maori word: Ngauruhoe (pronounced, Ngoh-roo-haw-e – see a full explanation in this comment).
But still, you can’t help but peer at it, knowing that actually, in your heart, you consider this to be Tolkien’s mountain, the mountain he would have imagined Doom to be like, had he been thinking of a mountain.
It’s just so… volcanic. When you draw a volcano as a kid, or make one out of papier-mache in an inevitable science class, chances are, it will look just like Mount Ngauruhoe. Perfectly conical sides lead up to the crater rim, and steam obligingly pours off the top to complete the picture.
In this post, I’m going to share with you everything you need to know to both climb Mount Doom, and also hike the Tongariro Crossing, both of which are found on New Zealand north island.
Let’s get to that now, and hopefully answer all your questions!
A Guide to Climbing Mount Doom & Hiking the Tongariro Crossing
Where is Mount Doom in New Zealand?
Mount Doom can be found in the Tongariro National Park on New Zealand’s north island. The way to climb Mount Doom is to do a part of the Tongariro Alpine crossing.
What is the Tongariro Alpine Crossing?
The Tongariro Alpine crossing is one way day hike which crosses the volcanic centre of New Zealand’s North Island, between the summits of Mount Tongariro (1967m) and Mount Ngauruhoe (2287m). It is lauded as New Zealand’s best one day hike.
How Long is the Tongariro Alpine Crossing?
The Tongariro Alpine Crossing is 19.4km / 12 miles in length.
How Long Does the Tongariro Alpine Crossing Take?
Most hikers complete the hike in 6-8 hours, although you can do it faster if you are very fit of course.
The walk itself starts at around 1100m and the main track peaks at around 1880m, with the option of climbing to the summit of both Tongariro and Ngauruhoe as you go.
Are you allowed to climb Mount Doom?
When I did this hike, it was allowed to climb Mount Ngauruhoe. However, as of 2017, the situation has changed a little.
Mount Ngauruhoe, and specifically its peak, is regarded as sacred to the local Maori hapū, Ngāti Hikairo Ki Tongariro. I was not aware of this when I climbed the peak and it was not something that was being made widely known.
In respect of their wishes, DOC rangers removed signs directing visitors to the peak in 2017. Additionally, DOC rangers are usually found on the mountain near the point where you would set off to ascend. They will not stop you from climbing, but they will inform you that it is the wish of the local people that you do not climb.
So, currently, yes you are allowed to climb Mount Doom, but it is your decision as to whether or not you want to.
When I lived in New Zealand, I worked at a location conveniently right between the start and finish of the walk. It was a 20 minute drive to the start, and about a five minute drive from the finish.
So when the weather gave us a good day, with clear skies and barely a breeze in the air, we took a break from our work and headed up to the mountain.
Helpfully, one of the shuttle bus companies (Tongariro Expeditions) was kind enough to give us a lift up with one of their morning runs which go from the park we work in to the car park the walk starts in. And then the walk began.
A Section by Section Guide to the Tongariro Alpine Crossing
The Walk To Mount Ngauruhoe on the Tongariro Alpine Crossing
The scenery, as you can imagine, is absolutely spellbinding. The visibility, even from the relatively low point of the car park at 1100m, was incredible. We could see, for example, Mount Taranaki jutting into the sky, 180km away to our west.
Nearer, Mount Ruapehu, home to what I am informed are the southern hemispheres largest ski fields and also the North Island’s highest mountain, sparkled impressively in the sun, still clad in plenty of clear white snow. The walk was off to an auspicious start.
I will get one thing out of the way now. Being billed as New Zealand’s top one day walk inevitably means that the Tongariro Alpine Crossing is busy.
Even in the quieter part of the season, when we did it, there were plenty of people about. Most folk start the walk between 7am and 9.30am, and as everyone is going the same way along what are often narrow paths, it can be a little congested at times. But then, with scenery like this to look at, there really is no rush.
The walk itself is very well marked, and the track is not too hard. You start off walking from the car park to the Mangatepopo Hut along a giant valley lined with lava flows and boulders, before the first serious ascent, up to the Mangatepopo saddle, which is right between the Tongariro and Ngauruhoe summits.
Around about here is where you break off if you wish to do the Ngauruhoe (or Mount Doom) climb. Which obviously, we did.
Climbing Mount Doom
The bus company brochure describes this part of the walk as “very challenging”, a warning which we assumed was your usual over the top safety conscious stuff.
About 50 metres in, we realised that perhaps it was a serious warning. The “track” we were following rapidly disappeared, the slope inclined to thirty degrees, and we were scrambling up a snow covered scree field, with the summit at least a 500 metre vertical ascent ahead. I began to realise why this part of the walk was both optional and not that busy.
Still, I like to start what I finish, even if that means scrambling up lava flows and loose, slippery boulder covered scree, with nothing but a very long and painful slide behind me should it all go wrong.
About half way up my travelling companion concluded I was completely insane, and left me to it. The sight of other people carrying on bolstered my confidence, even though I had no idea at all how I was going to get back down, and I pressed on, finally making it to the top in just under two hours. And wow, was that worth it.
Steam mysteriously poured out of the ground below my feet, as the snow covered crater rim loomed before me. I circumnavigated the outer and lower part of the rim, stopping to take a lot of photos, before the final push up another fifty metres or so of hard packed snow got me to the top and I was able to peer within.
There was no sign of orcs or dark, twisted evildoers. Just the steam, the rocks, and the smell of sulphur, with a panoramic view of most of New Zealand’s North island. Not bad.
After a spot of food to bolster the spirits, I sledged down the snow on my bum, brushed myself off, and pondered the best way to get down the rest of the way. It turned out, the way down was pretty easy. All I had to do was dig my heels in to the ash filled scree and walk / slide my way down.
It was incredibly fun, and took me about twenty minutes to go down what had taken me nearly two hours to go up. At the bottom I decided I had so enjoyed the walk down that I was tempted to go back up again. Sanity prevailed.
Continuing the Tongariro Alpine Crossing
At this point I re-met my companion, and we set off again on the walk. As most of the walkers had not done Ngauruhoe, we were now over two hours behind everyone else, and thus had much of the rest of the walk almost to ourselves, which was brilliant.
We walked, feeling like ants, across the giant “South crater”, between Ngauruhoe and Tongariro, before starting on the last part of the climb, up the red crater.
The red crater
The red crater is so called because, well, it’s all red. Dark ruby coloured earth contrasted against the startlingly blue sky, as steam poured out of the rocks – the smell of sulphur was heavy in the air. Behind us, Ngauruhoe loomed. We pressed on.
From the top of the red crater – the half way point of the track and it’s highest point – there is an option to ascend another 100m or so on a 3km return trip to the summit of Tongariro, which is a much more popular side option. We elected not to do this as we had to get to the other side of the mountain to catch our four thirty bus home, and didn’t want to have to rush.
From the red crater the track descends to the emerald lakes, aptly named for their mesmerising colours, with snow lining the edge. There you walk across a snow plain (which will melt as the season progresses) before a short ascent up to the gorgeous blue lake, in which large chunks of snow were gently bobbing.
As always, the scenery was just phenomenal, it felt like we were walking on another world. Mars perhaps. Certainly somewhere without trees.
Downhill all the way
From the blue lake it was all downhill – we rounded a corner and lost sight of Ngauruhoe, hidden behind the bulk of Tongariro, and started the long descent.
The long descent is the main reason the walk is only done in one direction, for whilst you start at an altitude of 1100m, you finish at around 700m, and most folk aren’t too keen on tramping up that extra 400m.
Whilst this part of the walk is also staggeringly pretty, with the mass of Lake Taupo laid out before you, and nearly all of the northern half of the North island visible, by this point feet are starting to get tired and folk are thinking of that first cold beer.
The descent takes you past the Ketetahi Hut and the Ketetahi Hot Springs – the latter of which are private Maori land and therefore not accessible to walkers – before the final 6.5km down through the alpine forest and to the car park.
This part of the walk is well known for feeling longer than it is, and you really do start to wonder if you have become lost in a never ending forest trail. All it needed was giant spiders and elves, and Mirkwood would have come to life around me.
This, however, was not to be. We came out into the sunny carpark at the end, around eight hours after we had started to walk, and thankfully climbed onto our bus, which conveyed us back to the park and a blissfully cold beer and warm shower.
I cannot recommend this walk enough. Even if you don’t do the Ngauruhoe summit climb (which is genuinely scary), the views and scenery are truly stunning. It does get very busy though, so if you can find a gloriously sunny day in the quieter months (around Spring time) you may enjoy it more.
You can do the walk in Winter with a guide too, although that’s crampons and ice axe territory, so bring some fitness and warm clothing.
Christine Sedunary says
Hi there,
I was 58 when I did this walk. It was a random decision. The next day I walked it without any actual training or fitness other than a daily half hour walk. It took me no longer than anyone else really. I didn’t find it scary, or really that steep, but it was hard sliding down that scree until someone was kind enough to lend me their walking poles and that made all the difference. So to that man, I am very grateful and I hope he got them back. It was a great experience especially with so many people there doing it as well. All fun and cheer and what’s more I met young friends and felt fitter at the end of the day than when I started.
It was amazing…Christine
Laurence Norah says
Hi Christine,
Glad to hear you had a great experience and thanks very much for sharing it with us! Safe travels 🙂
Laurence
Sauron says
Hi, the proper pronunciation for Mt Ngauruhoe is actually like “Ngoh-roo-haw-e” the ng isn’t an ‘n’ but rather ‘ng’ like at the end of ‘sing’. The ‘a’ in Māori is pronounced like ‘aaaah’ and the ‘u’ is said exactly like the end of the word ‘you’ but without the ‘y’, so ‘oooh’; and when combined together the ‘au’ is very similar to the word ‘oh’ so thats an easier way to remember it au=oh. the ‘r’ and the ‘u’ together make a roo sound but you need to roll the ‘r’ like you would in Spanish. The ‘ho’ is pretty similar to ‘haw’ but not like how Americans would say it, but rather like the British. And then very easy, ‘e’ which would be the ‘e’ sound in bed, said, red, (in a kiwi accent, mind you, as everyone else in the world pronounces their e’s differently than we do) and there you go, Ngauruhoe=Ngoh-roo-haw-e
Laurence Norah says
Hey Sauron, thank you so much for this, much appreciated! I will update the post to make it clear 🙂
Jo says
Hello!
I’m heading to North Island in a few weeks and am sitting on the fence about this hike. It sounds and looks amazing, and as an avid LOTR fan, I would love to trek through Mordor and pretend drop my ring into Mt Doom; however, would you advise it for someone who has never done a proper mountain hike before? Also have had a minor foot injury about 9 mths ago and it randomly hurts once in a while. And I will have to buy hiking boots which I will only have 2 free days to walk around in to break into. I saw some comments about losing toenails here – is that likely to happen if we don’t opt to climb the actual Mt Ngauahoe?
Thanks!
Laurence Norah says
Hey Jo,
It is definitely an amazing hike, and it is very popular even with folks who don’t do a lot of hiking. So there will be plenty of people on the trail. That said, it is quite a hike with ascents and descents, and whilst there’s no actual climbing you are going to be spending the majority of the day on the trail. I didn’t personally lose a toenail, but it is not uncommon, it happened to a friend of mine. There’s a lot of up and down and uneven terrain, so it’s not hard to bang your foot especially as you get more tired!
All that said I do absolutely think it’s worth it and worth some discomfort, although you will have to judge your own personal fitness level and injury before making the decision!
Have a great time in New Zealand regardless!
Laurence
Chloe says
Nearly 18 years after doing this hike and climbing up Mount Ngauruhoe I can still remember the fear of the ascent and decent and wondering how on earth I was going to get down once I reached the top. On the ascent I was finally reduced to crawling up on my hands and knees like Gollum :O) It’s so reassuring to see that I wasn’t a complete wimp and that others found it equally challenging; thank you :O) And thank you for reviving memories of an incredibly beautiful walk.
Happy hiking everyone but take care xx
Laurence Norah says
Ah yes, it was definitely challenging and quite scary! But I did enjoy it a great deal. Glad to bring back some happy memories for you 😀 Safe hiking!
Irene says
Hi! And thank you for such a great post! 🙂 I am travelling to NZ next week and really want to see Mount Doom – or Mount Ngauruhoe if you wish. Hehe:-) Unfortunately, we do not have enough time in our itinerary to fit a hike – but I figured that maybe we might be able to see Mount Ngauruhoe anyway as we will be driving from Matamata to Wellington one of the days. Is it possible to see the mountain from the Mangatepopo car park? If not, how far in on the hike do you have to go to get an OK view of it? Thank you so much for your time and help – and have a lovely day! – Irene
Laurence Norah says
Hi Irene,
You can definitely see it from the car park, and from much further away as well. It’s one of the largest mountains in the area, so you will be able to see if from some way away (depending on the angle of course).
Have a great trip!
Laurence
David Badger says
Hi,
You mention the fabulous view across to Mt Taranaki ‘to your south-east’. Seems to me that Mt Taranaki is in fact west of Tongariro (maybe slightly south of west, but definitely not south-east.)
Planning to hike the crossing in November 2019, so thanks for the detailed description.
Laurence Norah says
Hi David!
Oops! Well, this article has been live for almost a decade and no-one has spotted this until now, so well done! I happily admit to being pretty poor at directions. The article is still valid though, and I’ve fixed that issue. If you do notice any changes when you are there, please do let me know so I can be sure it’s accurate for other readers!
Have an amazing time in New Zealand,
Laurence
Jason says
Thanks for the info it really helped. I do have one question I have read on the other sites that you can no longer climb mount nguaruhoe because they have rangers there. Is this true. Is there a way around this I really want to go to the top. I will be there Jan 2020.
Laurence Norah says
Hi Jason,
From what I have read you are still allowed to climb it, however you are encouraged not to by the rangers due to the significance of the mountain to the local people. Obviously the significance of the mountain has not changed, but this system was not in place when I climbed the mountain back in 2010, and I wasn’t aware of this. The rangers will not actually stop you if you want to climb it though from what I have read, they will just advise you that it is preferred if you don’t.
I hope this helps. If you do go and try to climb it and are able to provide me with an update that would be very helpful,
Thanks!
Laurence
Cassidy says
What kind of footwear would you recommend using in December?
Laurence Norah says
Hi Cassidy,
It will be pretty warm in December as it’s mid summer. However, I always prefer to do a long hike like this in proper hiking boots as you get good ankle support and grip. So that would be my recommendation 🙂
Have a great hike!
Laurence
christine says
Hi Laurence, thank you for the detailed article!! That is amazing you pushed yourself to continue up… despite being left to go alone!
May I ask what size pack you carried on this trip up Ngauruhoe? (and I assume you carried at least 2-3L of water?)
I plan to go the same season, in October. Thank you!
Laurence Norah says
Hi Christine,
I just carried an Osprey day pack, I think it’s 25L. So not too big. I generally carry around 3 litres of water for a day hike like this. although it wasn’t too hot in October.
have a great trip!
Laurence
C Yeh says
That lake is not lake Taupo, but lake rotoaira.
Laurence Norah says
Hey there, and thanks for the comment. Could you let me know which lake you mean?
Laurence says
Wonderful – thanks for sharing! Always good to have feedback to help others 😀
Naga says
Thank you. In fact I did the hike on snow and ice with a group and 2 guides on the same day as planned. It was the best in my life. I saw 3 people climbing Mt Doom and it seemed a tough climb only for professionals. I hope to climb it in summer.
Laurence says
Must have missed this question – sorry! We did this in early October, when there was still some snow but not too much. It’s possible to do the whole crossing in the snow, but requires more preparation and a knowledge of mountaineering in the snow, so we wouldn’t advise it unless you really know what you’re doing 🙂
Naga says
Hi guys, I am planning to do this walk on Sep 11, 2016. I wonder if it is possible to climb Mt Doom if there is snow. When did you do this hike? Thanks for the nice post with beautiful photos.
Laurence says
Thanks Ross! From my experience, March should be clear and easy, there shouldn’t be any snow at that time of year (although of course conditions can change!), so just take plenty of water and allow plenty of time. It’s an amazing hike!
Ross Lambrecht says
Hey Laurence! Awesome photos and description! I’m researching this climb right now in preparation to do it myself, and this post is actually one of the most helpful resources I’ve found online, in terms of a specific account of the climb itself. Since you worked in the area for a while, I’m wondering if you might be able to advise on general weather conditions here in mid-March? Hoping to make the climb then, but having a hard time determining how cold/snowy the mountain will be at this point. Any insights? Thanks for sharing!
Naga says
Hi guys, I am planning to do this walk on Sep 11, 2016. I wonder if it is possible to climb Mt Doom if there is snow. When did you do this hike? Thanks for the nice post with beautiful photos.
Laurence says
Must have missed this question – sorry! We did this in early October, when there was still some snow but not too much. It’s possible to do the whole crossing in the snow, but requires more preparation and a knowledge of mountaineering in the snow, so we wouldn’t advise it unless you really know what you’re doing 🙂
Naga says
Thank you. In fact I did the hike on snow and ice with a group and 2 guides on the same day as planned. It was the best in my life. I saw 3 people climbing Mt Doom and it seemed a tough climb only for professionals. I hope to climb it in summer.
Laurence says
Wonderful – thanks for sharing! Always good to have feedback to help others 😀
Ross Lambrecht says
Hey Laurence! Awesome photos and description! I’m researching this climb right now in preparation to do it myself, and this post is actually one of the most helpful resources I’ve found online, in terms of a specific account of the climb itself. Since you worked in the area for a while, I’m wondering if you might be able to advise on general weather conditions here in mid-March? Hoping to make the climb then, but having a hard time determining how cold/snowy the mountain will be at this point. Any insights? Thanks for sharing!
Laurence says
Thanks Ross! From my experience, March should be clear and easy, there shouldn’t be any snow at that time of year (although of course conditions can change!), so just take plenty of water and allow plenty of time. It’s an amazing hike!
Laurence says
@Awhina Tours – Thanks for the kind words 🙂 We took a stroll from the
Ketetahi carpark up to the Ketetahi hut yesterday to get a reverse view
of the hot springs – it really is quite amazing to see steam pouring out
of the side of the hill. Would love to get closer!
Laurence says
I know what you mean! Darn coming to New Zealand without a copy of the
films to hand… Still… They do seem to show fairly regularly on the
local movie channels 😉
Laurence Norah says
My pleasure! Have an amazing trip, let me know if you have any more questions. I’d also recommend checking out Young Adventures, she is based in New Zealand and does lots of hiking 🙂
Jim says
Thank you so much for such a prompt reply Laurence!
Laurence Norah says
Hey Jim. When I was there, it was a fairly serious undertaking to do the trek in Winter. There are some very steep sections of the track and most of it is snow covered at that time of year, so I don’t believe it is advisable to tackle without the correct gear. The weather is very changeable up there as well. In addition, as it’s a one-way hike (unless you turn around), you still need to arrange transport from one end to the other.
My advice, if you really want to do it, is to go with one of the operators who offer winter treks up here. There was at least one doing this when I was there, who will give you all the equipment and ensure you get through safely 🙂 Hope this helps!
Jim says
Hi Laurence,
My fiancee and I are heading to the North Island at the very end of August and into the first week of September for part of our honeymoon. The Tongariro Alpine Crossing is one of our top activities we would love to be able to do…from what I have read, do you have any insight on whether or not we could reasonably expect to hike large sections of the track without any special winter hiking gear such as crampons etc? Is the snow and ice more of an issue at the peaks an highest altitudes? Or will most of the track be covered? We are both very fit and experienced hikers, but will not have any special equipment with us. Any insight you have would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!
Jeremy Branham says
That’s an amazing hike! I love hiking but this definitely looks like a scene from another world. I’ve had my share of tough hikes but sliding down the snow would be a fun way to get down. Quite a diverse landscape with lots of great views. If I make it to NZ, I will definitely check out this hike.
Mary @ Green Global Travel says
We’ve seen a lot of volcanoes in our travels, but never had a chance to climb one. Wow, thanks for going to all that effort so that we too could enjoy the spectacular scenery.
Laurence Norah says
It’s a funky place for snowboarding I’m told! And three hours from there… that’s pretty much anywhere on the North Island 😛 Whereabouts are you guys from?
Cole @ Four Jandals says
You got your pronunciation right 🙂 Still haven’t done that hike even though it’s only 3 hours from my house. We do go snowboarding there every year though!
Laurence says
@Caz and Craig – cheers guys, it was truly amazing 😀
@Ant – I didn’t! I wish I had been aware, I would have scoured the surface of the mountain 🙂 I lost both of my big toe nails whilst tramping around Australia, it’s not pretty stuff!
Laurence says
It sure was – and I did take quite a few!
Laurence says
Thanks Amanda! We were incredibly lucky with the weather – since we went up it’s been windy, cold and threatening to snow! When you come out do the walk – I can’t recommend it enough!
Awhina Tours says
Wonderful images and one of the best write-ups on this world class walk. I can see that there is no way I could reach the summit but I do hope to do the traverse.
I believe their is one tour company affiliated with the ancestral owners that can take you to Ketetahi Hut and the Ketetahi Hot Springs.
Amanda Williams says
I can’t begin to tell you how jealous I am! If I can only do one thing the next time I’m in New Zealand, this will be it. Your photos are amazing! You had such a good day for it. I don’t know if I’ll be brave enough to summit Ngauruhoe, though!
Laurence says
I know what you mean! Darn coming to New Zealand without a copy of the
films to hand… Still… They do seem to show fairly regularly on the
local movie channels 😉
Breakaway Backpacker says
OH WOW THAT IS AMAZING! This is def on my too visit list. Great pics~
Now I wanna go see LOTR again.
Awhina Tours says
Wonderful images and one of the best write-ups on this world class walk. I can see that there is no way I could reach the summit but I do hope to do the traverse.
I believe their is one tour company affiliated with the ancestral owners that can take you to Ketetahi Hut and the Ketetahi Hot Springs.
Laurence says
@Awhina Tours – Thanks for the kind words 🙂 We took a stroll from the
Ketetahi carpark up to the Ketetahi hut yesterday to get a reverse view
of the hot springs – it really is quite amazing to see steam pouring out
of the side of the hill. Would love to get closer!
Amanda Williams says
I can’t begin to tell you how jealous I am! If I can only do one thing the next time I’m in New Zealand, this will be it. Your photos are amazing! You had such a good day for it. I don’t know if I’ll be brave enough to summit Ngauruhoe, though!
Laurence says
Thanks Amanda! We were incredibly lucky with the weather – since we went up it’s been windy, cold and threatening to snow! When you come out do the walk – I can’t recommend it enough!
Sarah Wu says
wow, that’s like a photographer’s heaven. Beautiful view to take pictures!
Sarah Wu says
wow, that’s like a photographer’s heaven. Beautiful view to take pictures!
Laurence says
It sure was – and I did take quite a few!
Laurence says
@Caz and Craig – cheers guys, it was truly amazing 😀
@Ant – I didn’t! I wish I had been aware, I would have scoured the surface of the mountain 🙂 I lost both of my big toe nails whilst tramping around Australia, it’s not pretty stuff!
Ant Stone says
Oh, Ngauruhoe. You didn’t happen to find my big toe nail, and both of my girlfriend’s as well, did you? We lost them doing this same tramp over Easter.
Ant Stone says
Oh, Ngauruhoe. You didn’t happen to find my big toe nail, and both of my girlfriend’s as well, did you? We lost them doing this same tramp over Easter.
yTravel Blog says
Sounds like a really incredible hike Laurence. I would love to do this. Thank you for drawing it to my attention. Amazing photos as well
Caz Craig Makepeace says
Sounds like a really incredible hike Laurence. I would love to do this. Thank you for drawing it to my attention. Amazing photos as well