As a professional travel photographer, I’m often asked about camera gear, and in particular, folks contact me to ask me what the best camera lens for travel photography is. Often people have bought a camera with an interchangeable lens, like a mirrorless or DSLR camera, and are looking to upgrade their kit to meet their needs.
I’ve already written a guide to the best cameras for travel photography, but as that only covers camera and not lenses, I thought it would make sense to follow up with a regularly updated guide to the best camera lenses – specifically for travel photography purposes. After all, a camera is not much good without a lens!
Of course, this guide does assume you have a camera with interchangeable lenses, so that means a mirrorless camera or a DSLR camera. Within those two groups though there are myriad camera and lens manufacturers. And for the most part, lenses made for one camera system won’t work on another system.
So for this post, I’ve first put together a general overview of what to look for when picking a travel lens, which will give you some pointers in terms of features to consider. That way no matter what brand and kind of system, you’ll know what to look for when shopping for a camera lens.
I’ve then provided specific recommendations for the more popular camera systems out there, including Canon, Nikon, Panasonic, and Sony. Even if your particular manufacturer or camera mount isn’t mentioned, you should be able to get a good idea from this post of what to look for in a travel lens, which specifications matter, and an idea of price.
Speaking of price, as well as a guide to the best lens for travel photography for each camera brand, I’ve also suggested a couple of options for the best budget travel lens for each camera system. I know that lenses are expensive, and not everyone has a huge budget to spend! Let’s get started.
Table of Contents
What to think about when picking a lens for travel photography
Picking a lens to travel with is a bit different to picking a lens for other situations. Not only will you be concerned with image quality, but also size and weight.
Whilst it would be wonderful to have a wide range of expensive lenses to take with us on all our trips, the reality of travel is that there is only so much we can take with us, and when you’re out and about all day sightseeing, you probably don’t want to be carrying too much.
So for travel photography, it’s better to try and focus on getting a smaller number of lenses that work well in a wide variety of situations. That way you are likely to actually take them with you and use them.
Of course, there are always going to be compromises – it’s hard to find a lens that does everything well, doesn’t cost too much, and is lightweight! But for travel photography, I think there are some good travel lens options out there.
You have a few options for lens types. My suggestion would be to invest in two lenses – a walkaround lens and a fast prime. An f/1.8 50mm would be the ideal.
Some manufacturers sell a travel kit, like this bundle from Canon, which can be a great value way to get some good lenses.
If you only want to invest in one lens because you don’t see yourself changing lens often, or carrying more than one lens, then you will want a good walkaround lens, and that’s what this guide will be focusing on.
What is a walkaround lens you ask? Well, it’s a lens that “does everything”. It covers a good range of focal lengths, meaning you can get wide angle shots as well as zoom in on further away objects. It’s basically a one size fits all lens for your travel photography needs.
You will often find that if you invest in a camera that it will come with a lens that will suffice as a walkaround lens. These will work fine but tend not to be the top quality lenses.
If you are more serious about photography and your budget allows, I’d recommend that you buy your preferred camera “body only”, and then invest in a nicer walkaround lens, such as the ones I recommend, rather than the standard kit lenses. Don’t be surprised if the lens is more expensive than the camera either – good lenses are expensive, and a worthy investment.
Price considerations – how much to spend on a camera lens for travel photography.
Speaking of money, I’ve done my best to provide a range of lenses across various price points. More expensive lenses tend to be more capable, but can also be heavier, so aren’t always the best solution for travel photography.
For the budget-conscious reading this, I’m also providing my suggested best budget travel lens for each category. I appreciate that not everyone has a big budget for a new lens, so I want to provide some good value options too.
If none of the lenses in this post fit your budget, my advice would be to either stick with the kit lens that comes with your camera, or to check out the second hand lens market on either Amazon on eBay. For more on buying second hand camera equipment, see my guide to buying used camera equipment.
Now, before we dive into individual travel lens recommendations, let’s take a look at some of the key terminology and other considerations you need to be aware of when looking for a lens for travel photography.
Aperture
Inside a lens, there’s a hole that lets the light through to the camera’s sensor. This hole is referred to as an aperture. An aperture can change in size, with a bigger aperture letting more light in, and a smaller aperture letting less light in.
An aperture can be thought of as the pupil of your eye. When it’s bright outside, it is smaller so less light gets in. When you’re in a darker environment, perhaps at night, it opens really wide to let more light in.
The important number for lens apertures is how big the hole goes, which will dictate how well the lens will perform in low light situations. A wider aperture also allows for greater control over depth of field. See my guide to depth of field for more on that.
When you look at the specifications for a lens, it will always have the widest aperture listed as one of the key specifications. It will be a number, something like 2.8, 4.0 or 5.6. It may also be written as f/2.8, which is the formal way of denoting aperture. The smaller the number, the wider the hole.
Some lenses, and in particular the walkaround lenses we are going to be looking at, will have what is known as a variable maximum aperture. This means that the aperture will actually change as you zoom in and out, or change focal length. This is because as the lens barrel gets longer, the maximum aperture get smaller.
So for example, you might see a lens with an aperture of f3.5-5.6. This means that at the wide angle, the aperture is f/3.5, but when you zoom in, the aperture will drop, down to f/5.6 when you are fully zoomed in.
For travel photography, as with most photography, the wider the aperture the better – more light getting in means better low-light performance, making the lens more versatile for a range of photography situations. This is particularly useful for situations like taking photos of the stars, or shooting the northern lights.
The trade-off is that wider aperture lenses tend to be bigger, heavier, and more expensive. This will be considered in the lens selection.
Focal Length
The focal length of a lens is directly related to how much magnification it provides. It’s a number that’s measured in millimetres (mm), with the general rule being that the higher the number in millimetres, the more magnification you get, and the smaller the number in mm, the less magnification you get.
If you’ve previously used a compact camera (aka point-and-shoot), you’ll be used to this being described in terms of optical zoom – for example, a camera might have 10x optical zoom. That means that the difference in magnification between the most zoomed out setting and the most zoomed in setting is 10x.
In focal length terms, each doubling of the focal length results in a doubling of the magnification. So a 100mm lens will essentially make everything twice as big as a 50mm lens.
Unfortunately, matters get a bit confusing after this, because focal lengths have a different effect on different cameras. This is because camera’s have different sensor sizes, which affects the focal length, in what is known as a crop factor.
To take the example of the Canon DSLR camera systems. There are two main types of cameras available, the APS-C size cameras such as the consumer Rebel line, and the full frame size sensors in more professional cameras like the Canon 6D or 5D line.
Some of Canon’s lenses will work on both of these camera systems, but they will give different focal lengths. On the full frame cameras, the focal length will be as expected. On the APS-C sensor, there is a “crop factor” of 1.6, because the sensor is smaller. So a 100mm lens on an APS-C sized sensor will give the same result in terms of the image as you would be able to achieve with a 160mm lens on a full frame camera.
Thankfully, lens manufacturers all use the same focal length standard, so when buying lenses for your particular system, all you need to know is the crop factor. You can then multiply this by the focal length to get the equivalent focal length.
Don’t worry if this isn’t quite clear, for the lenses I recommend I will list both the focal length and the equivalent focal length where relevant. Equivalent focal length is what you need to really worry about, as it will let you compare lenses more effectively.
For travel photography, you want a lens that goes from fairly wide (16mm – 30mm) on the wide end, through to fairly zoomed in (70mm – 150mm) on the narrow end. This will give you good flexibility, letting you shoot wide scenes such as buildings on city streets, through to zooming in on the details. A good benchmark lens is a 24-70 f/2.8, which is generally known as the walkaround lens of choice for professional photographers.
There are some walkaround lenses which offer much greater focal lengths, well past 200mm, including some of the recommendations in this guide. Just be aware that there are always trade-offs to consider, and whilst these can offer tremendous versatility, it’s often at the expense of weight and image quality, and in particular, image sharpness, at the longer end of zoom range (beyond 200mm usually).
I’m not saying not to invest in these lenses, just to be aware that there’s no such thing as a perfect lens for all situations!
Filter Thread
When you buy a lens, it’s always a good idea to pick up a UV filter to protect the front. You may also want a polarising filter (read about polarising filters here), or a neutral density filter (see my guide to neutral density filters here).
You’ll notice that these filters come in different sizes, and the filter thread size on the lens, measured in millimetres, tells you what that size is. It’s basically just a measurement of the diameter of the lens, which is the end you put the filter on. Ok, that was an easy one.
Image Stabilisation
Camera lens manufactures have all kinds of fun terms they use for image stabilisation. These include IS (Canon), OIS (Panasonic), VR (Nikon), OS (Sigma), VC (Tamron) – the list goes on.
Whilst the names and underlying technology vary, the aim is the same – to compensate for any movement introduced by the person holding the lens (that’s you), to help you shoot at lower shutter speeds without getting blurry photos.
As a general rule of thumb, the minimum shutter speed you can hand hold a lens for is the inverse of the focal length. So if you have a 200mm lens, you would not want to shoot at shutter speeds slower than 1/200th of a second. A 50mm lens would be 1/50th of a second.
Image stabilisation technologies exist to help you get shots at lower shutter speeds than that, and they are usually rated in terms of how many extra “stops” they give you to play with. A “stop” is photography dialog for a halving, or doubling, of the light.
So if you went from 1/100th of a second to 1/50th of a second shutter speed and didn’t change anything else, that would be 1 stop.
Modern image stabilisation technologies offer between 3 and 5 stops of stabilisation. To put that in practical terms, if you are shooting with a 200mm lens at 1/200th of a second, 3 stops would let you hand hold down to 1/25th of a second. 5 stops would let you hand hold and still get sharp images as slow as 1/6th of a second!
As you can see, image stabilisation can make a huge difference, and it is definitely worth thinking about when looking for a lens. Of course, as with everything, there are tradeoffs, and an image stabilized lens will often be more expensive and slightly heavier than an equivalent non-stabilized version.
Weight
Weight is a pretty key consideration when it comes to picking a travel lens, as the idea is that you’re going to be using the lens for travelling. I don’t know about you, but the less I have to carry the better, especially if I’m going to be on my feet all day. So definitely keep the weight of your purchase in mind.
Size
As well as weight, you’re going to want to factor in the size of the camera lens. Portability can be an important factor for a travel photography lens, particularly if you’re travelling and prefer to pack carry-on only. So consider how big the lens is in physical terms when making a decision.
Mount Compatibility
When you attach a lens to a camera body, obviously it has to fit in place. It’s like a puzzle with two pieces – the lens has to be the right shape to fit into place and lock tightly.
In addition, because the camera needs to communicate with the lens to set things like aperture, focus and zoom, the electronic connections between the lens and the camera body need to line up and be compatible.
The system that is used is known as a lens mount. You basically “mount” the lens onto the camera. Most camera manufacturers have their own lens mount system or systems, so when you buy a lens, you need to make sure it is compatible with the mount type on your camera.
Many manufacturers have multiple lens mounts, depending on the type of camera. For example, Canon cameras can have an EF-S mount, an EF mount, an EF-M mount and an RF mount.
It is very important when buying a lens to ensure that it has a compatible lens mount for your camera. Note that some lenses will work with multiple lens mounts – for example, an EF lens will work on both an EF and an EF-S mount. However, an EF-S lens will only work with an EF-S lens mount, and not with an EF mount.
Usually the mount type is made clear in the name of the lens. For example, the Canon EF 16-35 f/4L IS is an “EF” lens, which you can see in the name of the lens. So this will work with an Canon EF or Canon EF-S camera body.
If you are buying a lens from a third party manufacturer such as Tamron or Sigma, be aware that they usually make multiple versions of each lens, with different mounts. So always make sure you buy the version that will fit your camera.
Well, that sums up some thoughts on the various factors, features and terminology you need to consider when looking to buy a travel lens.
Now, let’s dive into some specific recommendations across various camera systems to give you some idea of what’s available at different price points.
Note that these are primarily walkaround lenses that are suited for travel, rather than for a specific function like macro photography or astrophotography. If you are interested in the latter, see our guide to northern lights photography, which has some specific lens recommendations for night situations.
The Best Micro Four Thirds Lens for Travel Photography
Micro Four Thirds camera are a popular choice for photographers. These mirrorless systems are lightweight and portable, yet offer everything you would expect from a bigger SLR style camera, including full manual controls and great image quality.
There are a number of manufacturers, with the most popular being Panasonic and Olympus. We use and love our Panasonic GX8 which is a staple part of our travel photography gear.
Both of these manufacturers have their own proprietary lens stabilisation system that takes advantages of stabilisation technology in both the camera body and the lens. This means that whilst lenses will work across different micro four thirds cameras, to take full advantage of the stabilisation technology you need to match brands – so a Panasonic lens needs to go on a Panasonic camera body for the best results.
In terms of crop factors micro four thirds cameras have a 2x crop factor, so you need to double focal lengths to get the equivalent focal length.
1. Panasonic Lumix G Leica 8-18mm F2.8-4.0
With a 16-36mm equivalent focal length, this is the lens to get if you love shooting really wide. Personally, my wide angle lens is the lens I use the most, so this is what I’d go for on this camera system, even if it’s not quite as flexible across shooting situations as something with a greater focal range. It doesn’t have image stabilisation, but as the lens is so light that’s less of an issue, and image stabilisation on a wide-angle isn’t as critical.
Weight: 11.11 oz / 315 g
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2. Panasonic Lumix G Leica DG 12-60mm Power O.I.S. F2.8-4.0
As a walkaround travel lens, it’s hard to argue with this 12-60mm lens from Panasonic, which offers a 24-120mm equivalent focal length and sharp results throughout that focal length, even shooting wide open. The aperture stops down a bit as you zoom in, but this is a lightweight lens that will do pretty much everything you could want, and includes image stabilization (Power O.I.S).
Weight: 11.29 oz / 320g
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3. Olympus M.Zuiko Digital ED 7-14mm f/2.8
My choices for the Olympus micro four thirds system are essentially their versions of the Panasonic lenses above. This is the wide angle, with a focal length equivalent of 12mm – 28mm.
With a fixed f/2.8 aperture this is a very fast lens at all focal lengths, although this does make it a little bit heavier.
It also comes with dust and weather sealing. It doesn’t have lens based image stabilisation, but the majority of Olympus MFT cameras have in-body stabilisation which makes up for this.
Weight: 1.17lb / 543g
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4. Olympus M.ZUIKO Digital ED 12-100 F4.0 IS PRO
With a focal length equivalent to 24-200, this is pretty much the perfect walk around length for travel photographers. It is water and dustproof, and features image stabilisation equivalent to an incredible 6.5 stops when used with a compatible Olympus camera.
That added focal length does add some weight and bulk though. If you’d prefer a lighter lens and a faster aperture at the expense of focal length, check out the cheaper Olympus M.ZUIKO Digital ED 12-40 F2.8 instead.
Weight: 1.23lb / 561g
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Best Budget Micro Four Thirds Lens
1. Panasonic Lumix G Vario 12-60mm f/3.5-5.6 POWER O.I.S
This is essentially a slower version of the Panasonic 12-60mm lens above, at half the price. It’s also significantly lighter than that lens. Impressively for a lens at this price point, it comes with image stabilisation as well as a splash and dust-proof body, making it ideal as a travel lens.
At a similar price point there’s also the slightly heavier 14-140mm f/3.5-5.6 lens from Panasonic, but whilst you gain a lot in focal length, you lose out on that weather resistance, so it’s up to you.
Weight: 7.41oz / 210g
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2. Olympus M.Zuiko ED 14-150mm f/4-5.6 II
This lens has a fantastic 28 – 300mm equivalent focal length, meaning it’s going to let you get pictures of nearly everything you could want. It also has weather sealing and a reputation for sharpness. Ok, so that variable aperture makes it a bit slower than more expensive lenses, but that saves weight and cost, and at this price point, this is a bargain.
Weight: 10 oz / 284g
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The Best Mirrorless Lens for Travel Photography for Sony Cameras
For the purposes of this guide, I’m going to be talking about Sony’s E-mount lenses, which work on their mirrorless camera systems including APS-C models like the a6600 as well as full frame mirrorless models like the a7 range.
Note that there are two types of E mount lenses, “FE” lenses, which will work on both full frame and APS-C sized Sony cameras, and non FE lenses which are designed for APS-C sizes sensors only. While you can use a non-FE lens on a full frame camera, it will reduce the image resolution and field of view to be equivalent to an APS-C sized sensor, so I’d advise against that.
There are also “G” series lenses, which are Sony’s more professional lenses – similar to Canon’s “L” series. These offer greater image quality and performance, usually with a higher price tag to match.
Some Sony cameras offer in-body image stabilisation, but ideally you’ll want it in the lens. Sony’s image stabilization technology is known as OSS (optical steady shot).
1. Sony 18-105mm f/4 OSS G
With an equivalent focal length of 27mm – 158mm, and a fixed aperture throughout that focal length, this lens is ideal for travel photography. It’s also a G series lens, which means it is higher quality lens compared to their standard, non G lenses. It’s primarily designed for Sony’s APC-C sensor cameras, so not really recommended for their full frame bodies, but it is very well priced.
Weight: 15.06oz / 427g
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2. Sony E 18-135 f/3.5-5.6 OSS
With an E mount lens for APS-C camera compatibility, this lens is firmly aimed at travel photographers wanting a great Sony walkaround lens at a price that won’t destroy the bank. With image stabilization and good performance across a good focal length, this lens is a great bargain if you’re looking for an easy upgrade from the kit lens.
Weight: 15.06oz / 427g
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3. Sony FE 24-70mm f/4 OSS
Covering the classic focal length of 24-70 on a full-frame camera (36-105mm on an APS-C), this is a relatively fast lens that offers excellent image quality and portability at a relatively affordable price point. There’s also an f/2.8 “G” version of this lens which is approximately twice as expensive and also heavier, but may be worth it if you need that extra stop of light.
Weight: 15.03oz / 426g
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4. Sony FE 24-240mm f/3.5 – 6.3 OSS
Covering a truly staggering focal range of 24-240mm (36-360mm APS-C), this Sony FE lens is perhaps the ultimate walkaround lens for the Sony system. It may have a variable aperture, but given how well Sony’s cameras perform even at high ISO ratings, you probably won’t notice that too much.
If you want a lens that can shoot everything from far away wildlife to portraits to landscapes, this is a great choice at an excellent price point. Just be aware that it is heavier than the other options due to that extended focal length.
Weight: 1.72 lb / 780g
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5. Sony FE 16-35 f/4 OSS
If you’re after something wider, then this is the lens to go for, especially for full frame cameras (APS-C owners should instead consider the cheaper 10-18mm f/4 for wide angle work).
With a relatively fast fixed aperture, super-wide capabilities and even image stabilisation, this is the lens for landscape and architecture photographers to look at.
Weight: 1.14lb / 518g
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6. Sony 18-200 f/3.5-6.3 OSS
If you’re on Sony’s APS-C sensor system, then you might want to consider this lens instead of the 24-240mm lens above, as it offers a wider 27mm equivalent at the wide end. It’s also a relatively light lens given the focal range, making it a good choice for travel photographers trying to keep the weight down.
Weight: 1.16lb / 524g
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Best Budget Mirrorless Lens for Sony
1. Sony FE 28-70mm f3.5-5.6 OSS Lens
Being an FE lens, this will work on both full frame and APS-C sized Sony bodies – on the latter it would offer an equivalent focal length of 38 – 105mm, which is useful for many situations except particularly wide work. A good value lens.
Weight: 10.41 oz / 295 g
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2. Sony 55-210mm f4.5-6.3 OSS
If you’re looking for a bit more range, perhaps to compliment the kit lens that came with your Sony camera, this is one of the better priced telephoto zoom lenses from Sony that is also incredibly light for the focal range on offer.
Of course, it’s not the sharpest lens in the world, especially at the 200mm end (315mm equivalent), but it does feature image stabilisation and is a bargain to boot.
Weight: 12.16 oz / 345g
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The Best DSLR Lens for Travel Photography for Nikon Cameras
For the longest time, the two main choices for photographers looking for camera gear were Nikon and Canon. That has certainly changed, but these two manufacturers definitely account for the highest percentage of cameras sold today.
Because they’ve both been around for so long there are literally hundreds of lenses to choose from for each system, both made by the manufacturers themselves, and lenses made by third parties.
Sifting through these choices to find the perfect travel lens is definitely a challenge, but I’ve narrowed down the various options to some of the best options to help you make an informed decision.
1. Nikon 28-300mm f/3.5-5.6G VR
An ideal walkaround lens at a good price point for Nikon full-frame users (known as FX in Nikon speak). This lens covers a very wide focal range with a reasonable fast aperture, and offers image stabilisation (Nikon calls it VR, for vibration reduction).
Owners of Nikon’s APS-C sized sensor camera bodies (DX format) should consider either the 18-300mm lens below, or the Tamron 18-400mm f/3.5-6.3, which will give a bit more flexibility on the wide end.
Weight: 1.76 lb / 800 g
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2. Nikon 18-300mm f/3.5-6.3G VR II
Users of Nikon’s crop sensor cameras (known as DX) will definitely want to check out this lens, which offers an excellent range of focal lengths and image stabilisation (Nikon calls it VR, for vibration reduction) in a lightweight and inexpensive package.
There’s also an 18-200 version which can be found marginally cheaper, but as it weighs the same I’d go with this one.
Weight: 1.21 lb / 550g
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3. Nikon 24-70mm f/2.8E VR
Nikon’s 24-70mm f/2.8 lens is one of the most popular lenses for photographers of all types, particularly on full frame bodies. Its fast aperture throughout the focal length makes it great for low light photography and portrait work, and the relatively wide angle makes it a great landscape lens.
It even has image stabilization! It is expensive and heavy (consider the Sigma equivalent too), but if it’s the only lens in your bag you might not mind so much.
Weight: 2.35lb / 1070g
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4. Nikon DX 16-80mm f/2.4-4E VR
This lens is only for crop sensors, but it offers an excellent range of focal lengths, a fast aperture range and it is known for producing very sharp images. It’s also very light, making it a great option for travel photography, and features image stabilisation at a reasonable price.
Weight: 16.93 oz / 480g
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Best Budget DSLR Lens for Nikon
1. Nikon 18-140mm f/3.5-5.6 VR
For a DX camera, this is an excellent Nikon lens that covers a wide focal range, has image stabilization, and produces sharp images. It’s very well priced for what you get, is relatively light, and will serve you well as a travel photography walk around lens.
Weight: 1.08lb / 490g
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2. Nikon 24-85mm f/3.5-4.5G VR
FX format users on a tighter budget should definitely consider this lens, which offers reasonably fast performance and a good range of focal lengths in an affordable and lightweight package that also includes image stabilisation.
Weight: 1.02 lb / 465 g
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The Best DSLR Lens for Travel Photography for Canon Cameras
Like Nikon, the Canon camera system has been around for a long time, and there’s an incredible selection of lenses to choose from, both directly from Canon, and from third party manufacturers like Sigma and Tamron. This huge amount of choice can be overwhelming, but I’m going to do my best to provide a few options to get you started.
Note that Canon has three main lens mount systems – EF, EF-S, and RF. The first two are for their DSLR cameras, the latter is for their new full frame mirrorless camera system. This is a new mount, launched in 2018. I mention it because there is a Canon adaptor meaning all EF and EF-S lenses will work on RF mount cameras.
EF lenses will fit on all Canon’s cameras (RF with an adaptor), whilst the EF-S lenses will only fit EF-S mount cameras (and RF cameras with the adaptor).
EF-S cameras are essentially all the consumer focused models such as the Rebel series. Canon has its own stabilisation system, which it calls IS (image stabilisation).
1. Canon EF 16-35 f/4L IS
This ultrawide Canon lens is incredibly sharp, and an excellent choice for landscape and architecture lovers. It’s our current go-to lens for these purposes in our travel photography bag.
Whilst the f/4 aperture isn’t too wide, this lens features image stabilisation technology that promises up to four stops of stabilisation, which makes this a great choice for low-light work. It’s also not too heavy. APS-C owners should consider the cheaper and significantly lighter 10-18mm IS instead.
Weight: 1.35 lb / 615 g
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2. Canon EF 24-70 f/2.8L II
This is the walk around lens of choice for many full frame Canon professionals as it offers sharp performance and a fast fixed f/2.8 aperture across the frame. This lens is great for everything from portraits to landscapes, and is one of the most popular lenses amongst Canon shooters.
This lens is quite pricey and fairly heavy though, so do also consider the Sigma equivalent which is significantly cheaper and includes image stabilisation, which is notably absent from this Canon lens.
Weight: 1.77 lb / 805 g
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3. Canon EF 24-105 f/4 L IS II
If the Canon 24-70 above is a bit pricey, or you’d prefer image stabilization and a slightly longer focal length, then the excellent EF 24-105 f/4 L is a great choice. Despite the longer focal length, it’s actually a slightly lighter option.
This lens will work with both full frame and crop sensor cameras, on the latter it will have an equivalent focal length of 38 – 168mm.
Weight: 1.75 lb / 795g
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4. Tamron 28-300mm f/3.5-6.3 Di VC
There are lots of third party options for Canon, with Tamron being a popular choice for value oriented buyers. This Tamron covers an excellent focal range in a relatively lightweight, low-cost design.
This 28-300mm is a great walkaround lens choice covering a wide focal range, especially for full frame shooters who don’t want the weight or cost of Canon’s L series lenses.
Weight: 1.19 lb / 540 g
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5. Tamron 18-400mm f/3.5-6.3 VC
Owners of APS-C Canon cameras should definitely consider this incredible Tamron lens, which offers a mind blowing focal length (29 – 640mm equivalent) on Canon’s crop sensor cameras. It also has image stabilisation and an aperture range which is not too bad considering that incredible zoom. It’s also very well priced, and less heavy than you might expect for the focal length.
If you’d prefer a first party lens walkaround lens for your Canon APS-C camera, another option is the Canon EF-S 18-200 f/3.5-6.3 IS, which is a tiny bit lighter, but loses a lot of that lovely focal length, and is also slightly more expensive.
Weight: 1.56 lb / 710 g
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Best Budget DSLR Lens for Canon Cameras
1. Sigma 18-300 f/3.5-6.3 DC OS
If you’re looking for a lens that covers a very wide focal range, produces sharp images, and won’t break the bank, look no further than this excellent Sigma. This will only work on Canon’s APS-C range such as the Canon Rebel line, or Canon SL2, but it offers excellent performance, image stabilization and an incredible focal range (29mm – 480mm equivalent) in a well priced and lightweight package.
Weight: 1.28 lb / 584 g
Check price on Amazon here, B&H here and Adorama here
2. Tokina 11-20mm f/2.8 PRO DX
Lovers of wide-angle photography should shortlist this Tokina lens for Canon’s EF-S camera mount. With a very wide f/2.8 aperture, and a superwide focal length, this lens is perfect for landscape photography, low-light photography, and even taking pictures of the stars. Well priced too!
Weight: 1.23 lb / 560 g
Check price on Amazon here, B&H here and Adorama here
The Best Mirrorless Lens for Travel Photography for Canon Cameras
Canon also makes mirrorless cameras, which come in two mount types, EF-M and RF.
The EF-M mount launched in 2012, and is for Canon’s EOS M range of cameras. These mirrorless cameras feature an APS-C sized sensor, and are primarily aimed at consumers and prosumers.
The RF mount launched in 2018, and is Canon’s newest mount. This features on Canon’s full frame and APS-C mirrorless cameras, including the R5, R6, R7 and R10.
It’s worth noting that Canon produces an RF mount adaptor and an EF-M mount adaptor for both EF and EF-S lenses. This means you can use EF and EF-S lenses on the Canon EF-M mount cameras, as well as Canon RF mount cameras.
So if you have an EF-M or RF mount camera, you might still prefer to buy one of the previously mentioned EF lenses, as these have the widest compatibility, and will work across all Canon’s cameras.
That said, an EF-M lens will be smaller and lighter, whilst the RF lenses take full advantage of the wider size of the mount, meaning these lenses can offer wider apertures. RF and RF-S lenses also have additional control rings on the lens itself, which can make for fast on the fly settings adjustments.
Whilst there aren’t currently as many EF-M, RF or RF-S lenses on the market as there are EF and EF-S lenses, there are still plenty to choose from. Here are some options that should work well for travel photography, across a range of budgets.
1. Tamron 18-200 f/3.5-6.3 Di III VC
Tamron’s EF-M walk around lens offers an excellent 29-320mm equivalent focal length. You get a reasonably fast f/3.5 aperture on the wide end, which stops down to f/6.3 as you zoom in. You also get Tamron’s vibration compensation feature (VC).
Given the focal range, the lens is relatively lightweight, and you get good performance for a reasonable price. Definitely one to consider if you’re looking for a native EF-M mount lens.
Weight: 1.55lb / 459g
Check price on Amazon here, B&H here and Adorama here
2. Canon EF-M 15-45mm f/3.5-6.3 IS STM
If you don’t need lots of zoom, this 24-70mm equivalent lens from EF-M Canon offers excellent performance in a diminutive package. It offers sharp images, image stabilization, and a really low weight at an affordable price. It’s also often offered as a kit lens with some of Canon’s EOS M cameras, which can make for a great bargain.
Weight: 4.6oz / 130 g
Check price on Amazon here, B&H here and Adorama here
3. Canon RF 24-240mm f/4-6.3 IS USM
Moving onto the RF lenses for Canon’s full frame mirrorless cameras, and the first in our list is this versatile 24-240mm option. This offers an excellent focal range for travel photography, making this a good choice as a walkaround lens. You get a fairly fast f/4 aperture at the wide end, although this does drop off to f/6.3 as you zoom in.
You also get Canon’s image stabilization and fast, silent autofocus system. It’s also relatively light and compact for a full frame lens with this range, and the price is good for what you get.
Weight: 1.65lb / 750g
Check price on Amazon here, B&H here and Adorama here
4. Canon RF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM
Naturally Canon also has a range of their premium “L” lenses available for the RF mount. The 24-105 f/4 is an excellent RF mount lens for travel photography, offering a useful focal range as well as a fixed f/4 aperture throughout the whole focal length.
You also get image stabilization, fast and silent autofocusing, in a relatively compact and lightweight lens.
Weight: 1.54lb / 700g
Check price on Amazon here, B&H here and Adorama here
5. Canon RF 15-35mm f/2.8L IS USM
If, like me, you love wide angle photography, then you are definitely going to want to check out Canon’s awesome 15-35mm wide angle lens for the RF mount. The RF mount has allowed Canon to go all the way to 15mm with their wide angle zoom, and you get a fast f/2.8 aperture through the focal length as well.
You also get image stabilization and fast and silent autofocusing. It’s not cheap by any stretch of the imagination, but performance is superb.
This lens is the part of what photographers refer to as the “holy trinity” of lenses that professional photographers aim to have in their kitbag. They are all expensive, but image quality and performance can’t be beaten. If you are looking for the rest of the “holy trinity” of RF lenses, Canon also has the Canon RF 24-70mm F2.8 L IS USM and the Canon RF 70-200mm F2.8 L IS USM available for purchase.
Weight: 1.85lb / 840g
Check price on Amazon here, B&H here and Adorama here
6. Canon RF-S 18-150mm f/3.5-6.3 IS STM
In 2022, Canon launched the first of their mirrorless APS-C sensor cameras with an R mount, the EOS R7 and the EOS R10. These cameras actually come with an RF mount, meaning they are compatible with RF lenses and EF & ES-S lenses. For RF and EF lenses, you do get a 1.6x crop factor.
Canon has also launched RF-S lenses. Despite the name, the RF-S mount is the same as the RF mount, the only difference is that these lenses are designed for the new cameras, meaning they are smaller and lighter as they don’t need to produce such a large image.
The lens we recommend you consider as a walk around lens is the RF-S 18-150mm. On a R7 or R10, this has an equivalent focal length of 28.8-240mm, which is ideal for most travel photography situations.
You also get built-in image stabilization, and the maximum aperture of f/3.5 is very good. It’s also remarkably light.
Weight: 10.9oz / 310g
Check price on B&H here and Adorama here
Further Reading
Well, that sums up my guide to the best travel lenses for travel photography! I hope you found it informative and useful in your quest to find the perfect travel lens for you. Before you head off, I want to share with you a few more resources that will help you on your photography journey.
- My guide to picking the best travel camera – after all, a lens isn’t much good without a great camera to pair it with! We also have guides to the best point and shoot cameras, the best mirrorless cameras, the best cameras for hiking and backpacking, the best action cameras, and the best DSLR cameras for travel photography.
- Photos need editing to get the best out of them. See our guide to the best photo editing software for our suggestions. If you’re looking for something to edit your photos on, see our guide to the best laptops for photo editing
- If you’re looking for something for someone else, see our guide to the best gifts for photographers for ideas
- My series of Photography Tips, which I am always expanding and updating with posts like this one
- My always expanding series of Photography Location Guides, to help you get the best shot in locations around the world.
- An overview of my Travel Photography Gear, in case you wondered what a professional photographer has in his bag
- A Beginners’ Guide to Improving your Travel Photos for those starting out in travel photography. We also have a guide to how to use a DSLR to help you if you are starting out with this type of camera system.
- Our reasons why you need a travel tripod
Looking to Improve Your Photography?
If you found this post helpful, and you want to improve your photography overall, you might want to check out my online travel photography course.
Since launching the course in 2016, I’ve already helped over 2,000 students learn how to take better photos. The course covers pretty much everything you need to know, from the basics of how a camera works, through to composition, light, and photo editing.
It also covers more advanced topics, including astrophotography, long exposure photography, flash photography, and HDR photography.
You get feedback from me as you progress, access to webinars, interviews and videos, as well as exclusive membership of a Facebook group where you can get feedback on your work and take part in regular challenges.
It’s available for an amazing one-off price for lifetime access, and I think you should check it out. Which you can do by clicking here.
And that’s it for my guide to picking the best camera lens for travel photography. I’ll be keeping this post updated as new lenses are released for the various systems, so you can always check back for advice if you need it. I’m also happy to answer your specific questions about picking a lens for your camera system – just pop them in the comments below and I’ll do my best to give my thoughts and advice!
Tim says
Hi,
I’ve been looking to get into photography for a bit. Pretty settled on getting the 6D Mark II. Any recommendations for lens? I do a good bit of hiking, some traveling through the city and museums, some international travel, and a good bit of stuff outside. Any help is appreciated!
Laurence Norah says
Hey Tim,
Sure thing. So a lot will obviously depend on your budget. A good walk around lens with the 6D might be the Canon 24-105 f/4 L, which covers a useful focal range. If you want more range and are on more of a budget, Tamron’s 28-300 is a good option, although it isn’t quite as wide. Personally I prefer a wide angle lens, but it’s a personal preference. You can always shoot more frames and stitch them together of course.
If you wanted to give me an idea of budget, I’m happy to give some more ideas. Just one thing to bear in mind is that there’s always some sort of trade off when it comes to gear, be it maximum aperture, weight, cost or reach. No-one has come up with the perfect lens that does everything yet!
Cheers
Laurence
Tim says
Hi Laurence!
Thanks for the response! I think the 24-105 is purchasable with the body. For budget I’d probably like to stay under 2k for lens as I’m just getting my feet wet. I’ve seen a canon 50mm f/1.8 stm recommended, any thoughts on thus lens ?
Laurence Norah says
Hey Tim,
My pleasure! Yes, the 6D Mark II does usually have the option for the 24-105 as a “kit” lens, but it’s definitely more than your standard kit lens and worth adding on in my opinion.
The 50mm f/1.8, or nifty fifty as it’s often referred to, is a fantastic lens, especially for the price. I recommend everyone has one. It’s not necessarily a “travel” lens because most folks looking for a travel lens want something that covers a range of focal lengths. However, I always suggest people pick one up because it’s a great option for portrait work and anything else where you want a nice shallow depth of field. It can also work as a travel lens, you just have to get used to moving yourself around rather than using the zoom, which is actually not a bad thing.
Let me know if you have any other questions, and enjoy your new gear!
Laurence
Arijit says
Hi Laurence,
Great article! Hope you would be able to help me take my decision.
I own a Nikon D5200 (DX) and looking for a single lens which covers all or most aspects of photography (wide angle, portrait, zoom, etc). I had filtered down to 3 lenses- Nikon 18-300 mm (best for Nikon cameras as per your article), Sigma 18-300mm with Macro, Tamron 16-300 with Macro. I had Tamron 18-400 mm in my mind as well but then I thought that additional 100mm is not something I would fancy, as 300mm is still good enough for me and with the Sigma 300mm lens I am getting macro function.
All these 3 lenses are in same price range. But what I researched and understood was that Sigma lenses have best image quality of the three. Undoubtedly, Nikkor has the best overall optics but with Sigma I am also getting a macro feature which I feel I might use more than the 300mm though it is still good to have range.
I also heard that with Sigma 18-300, we might experience stabilization issues at higher mm for video. My requirement is to have the best of image and video quality with a single lens.
Would be grateful if you could share some thoughts on what should I consider.
Thanks in advance!
Laurence Norah says
Hey Arjit,
Thanks very much! So the lenses you list have some differences. Between the Tamron and the Sigma the Sigma as you say should have the best image quality, specifically sharpness, which is definitely important. Overall though the Nikon is generally better. I would also say that the Macro designation of the Tamron and Sigma is a bit misleading. Whilst they have a slightly closer minimum focus distance than the Nikon, neither are true macro lenses. A true macro lens would allow you to shoot an image with 1:1 magnification, meaning that the size of the image in real life is the same size as it’s reproduced on the sensor. The Tamron and Sigma both only offer a 1:3 magnification.
The reason these two lenses have the macro name is because they can both focus on objects that are within 39cm of the camera, whilst the Nikon has a minimum focus distance of 49cm. Honestly, this is not a big difference, and you will not get a real macro experience from any of these lenses, certainly not enough to make a difference. Usually a macro lens can focus on objects that are 30cm or less from the end of the camera.
So for this reason I would probably recommend the Nikon for overall best performance 🙂
I hope this helps!
Laurence
Debasis Goswami says
You never want to put a UV filter for a digital camera. Useless and makes any lens perform poorly. That was such a put off right at the beginning.
Laurence Norah says
Hi Debasis,
I have to respectfully disagree. A UV filter has protected my lens from damage on a number of occasions, where the filter has been destroyed but the lens is fine. In addition, a good quality UV filter is just a piece of glass, as is the rest of the lens. Studies have shown minimal to no impact in image quality, and it’s generally not noticeable either unless you’re pixel peeping.
In addition, the majority of “weather-sealed” lenses are only truly weather sealed with a filter on.
Of course, I don’t advocate putting a $10 filter on a thousand dollar+ lens. But I do think they are worth it. That said, each to their own. Whatever works for you is best 🙂
Thanks for your comment,
Laurence
Diane says
I own a Canon 80D with 10-18 lens, 15-85 Aps-cl ens (probably selling),55-250 (never used probably selling) and Tamron 18-400. I just purchased 24-70 f/4L lens and am thinking of purchasing Canon 6D mark II.
I use the 80D for everything and I am thinking the full frame 6DMII will help me get nice crisp pictures in low light and other shots. Do you think this is a good idea to have the crop and get a FF camera?
I am not a beginner and not advanced photographer in between the two and still learning
Laurence Norah says
Hi Diane,
The 6D Mark 2 is a great camera and will compliment your crop sensor nicely. I always have two bodies, although they are both full frame, it just makes it easier to get shots sometimes without having to mess around switching lenses.
Enjoy!
Laurence
gail says
Hello Laurence,
We enjoyed your very well written article. We are getting ready to leave on safari and are looking at purchasing a mirrorless camera. We are very intermediate photographers. We currently use a Canon EOS 7D. We were contemplating staying with Canon due to familiarity. However, your article, as well as others, is pointing toward Sony. What is your recommendation? Lenses, etc? The Sony A7III sounds like the best set up (battery life, etc). What about ease of use? Also, I suppose a need a 200mm or longer telephoto lens, correct. I’m not sure I wanted to invest $5,000 in a camera as we are far from avid photographers. We are traveling more though and expect to get more into photography as we travel. Looking forward to your feedback. Thank you!
Laurence Norah says
Hi Gail,
Thanks very much. I would say that if you are happy with the Canon 7D, you should stick with it and spend the money on a lens. A crop sensor camera is a good option for wildlife photography as it gets you closer to the action with the same focal length lens compared to a full frame camera. I would also add that if you are used to the Canon menu system, the Sony will take some getting used to, and many Canon photographers are not keen on the color of the images that Sony cameras produce.
I would instead suggest that you invest in a decent lens for wildlife photography for your Canon, or at least look to rent one. I’d advise something like the Canon 70-200 f/2.8 + a 2x doubler (quite a flexible setup), or the Sigma 150-500. The latter is a bit slower, but the zoom range is pretty amazing!
I hope this helps, let me know if I can help further,
Best,
Laurence
EllenH says
I have one more question…if I rent a lens or two for my vacation to try out… which ones you choose to shoot Athens Greece and Paros Greece… I have only been in photography 6 months and have a canon EOS rebel T7i
EllenM says
I have a Canon Rebel T7i… on my next travel we are going to Greece… I will be taking pictures of sunsets, archeology sites, views of the acropolis, Parthenon, mount lycabetta; views of boats and white houses… what is your suggested lens? Sigma 18-300 or the canon 50?
Laurence Norah says
Hi Ellen,
I would definitely go for the 18-300 which would give you a lot more range and choices for your photography. The 50mm is a great lens, but having a fixed focal length will definitely restrict you!
Best
Laurence
Ellen says
I am considering renting… should I stay with this option?
Laurence Norah says
Hi Ellen,
It’s up to you! Are you renting because you want to trial a lens for a future purchase, or just as a one-off? I’d say the Sigma lens you previously mentioned would be a good option in general, but you could rent a more premium lens. I don’t think it would make a huge difference – normally I’d recommend renting for more specialised trips like safaris or other wildlife encounters, where a really nice expensive zoom lens will make a huge difference – but it’s not a lens you’d really use very often otherwise.
I hope this helps 🙂
Laurence
Jose says
Hello from Puerto Rico!
I currently own a Canon 6D Mark II eith a 24-105 mm f4 II Lens. I also own a Rokinon 14mm f 2.8 AF and a Tamron 35-105 mm f2.8.
I have some traveling planned for November to Spain, France, Italy and Portugal. What should I bring in? Do I need a better Zoom lens such as a 70-200 mm ? I currently have a 75-300 mm f3.5-5.6 crop sensor lens from a previous Canon Camera.
Can’t wait for your recommendations!
Best Regards!
Jose
Laurence Norah says
Hi Jose!
it really depends what you want to photography and how much weight you want to carry! If it’s primarily landscapes and street photography, and you only want one lens, then the 24-105 would be my suggestions. If you want wider shots, then the Rokinon would be the best option.
It’s less likely you will need the extra zoom – it can be useful in some specific situations like wildlife and for candid portraiture from a distance, but it’s a lot of additional weight that you probably won’t use that often!
I hope this helps – have a great time in Europe!
Laurence
Jose says
Thanks!
????
Gary says
I travel with the Canon 24-70 f/4 on a 6D. Compared to both the 24-70 f/2.8 and 24-105, it weighs less, cost less, and has a sort-of macro mode (.7x) for flowers and any strange bugs one meets. The extra 35mm on the long end I hardly ever miss. I either need no more than 70 or go straight to wishing I had 400.
Laurence Norah says
Hi Gary!
Great to hear that you have found the right lens for you 🙂 It’s certainly an excellent lens, and a great lighter option for sure. You are right, those few mm don’t make that much difference, especially with how many megapixels most cameras give you these days and the power of cropping!
Happy photography!
Laurence
Usama Zulfiqar says
Hi Laurence,
Great article and fully endorse your views. I am enthusiastic photographer and have Nikon D750 with 24-120mm f/4, 50mm 1.8 and 85mm 1.8 lens+Godox Flash. I am planning for a short trip to my home town with loads of indoors gathering and few outdoors gatherings as well, but wanted to carry only two lens max.due to weight issue.
I had previously used 24-120mm for shooting a wedding and it went very well as my photos were as good /sharp as photos taken by professional photographer. I am quite comfortable with this lens, despite losing bokeh compared to 50mm and 85mm.
I will also take some portraits and shots of toddlers and kids running around. My question, which lens you recommend to pack in my carrying bag?
Regards
Laurence Norah says
Hi Usama
Thank you very much 🙂 So I would say that if you are happy with the performance of the 24-120 f/4, then that would be a great option as it’s going to be pretty versatile. For the other lens (I think you wanted two), I’d personally go with the 85mm as it’s going to be better for portraits, and will be easier for candid work as you will be able to get photos of people with them noticing less. The 50mm is a great lens too, but it’s harder to get those candid moments if you have to stand closer.
I hope this helps. If you really only wanted to take 1 lens I’d probably pick the 50mm as you could always crop, and it will be a bit more versatile for more situations.
Best
Laurence
Shan says
Hi..
On my weekend travels i normally use NIkon 18-55 VR. And Nikon 35mm 1.8G for low light situation.
I don’t take Nikor 55-300 and Tamron wide angle in my bag for travel. It’s a little inconvenient to swap the lens for telephoto or wide angle in some situation since travelling with family (we have 2 year old kid) and the weight of the bag carrying too many lens..!
I’m thinking to buy a good walk around lens (Nikor or third party) and sell both NIkor 18-55VR and 55-300 (or at least keep my first lens 18-55VR).
Do you have any suggestion on my situation? what should be the walk around lens i should go for?
Laurence Norah says
Hi Shan,
Obviously it will depend on your budget. I’d suggest either the 18-300mm in the list above, which would be a good all around option. Alternatively if you want a wider aperture for lower light, then you might consider the 24-70 2.8. However it has much less focal length and is also quite expensive, so I think the 18-300 would be a better walkaround option, and would replace your two other lenses you mention.
Best
Laurence
Peter says
Thanks for your great articles Laurence, I have found them very informative and clearly explained, which is most helpful to a beginner photographer trying to learn more about the key features of the camera/lens setup and how they impact picture quality. Please forgive the newbie question, but in describing the lenses, you talk about a lens being faster or slower than another? What does that mean in layman’s terms, ie. how is a lens faster than another ? does it refer to the time the light takes to reach the sensor and hence how quickly you can take multiple shots or something else ?
Laurence Norah says
Hi Peter!
My pleasure. That is a great question, and I should definitely explain it in the article. However, first I’ll tell you 🙂
So, a fast lens is so called because it will have a wider aperture. A wider aperture lets more light in, which means you can use a faster shutter speed, compared to a lens with a smaller aperture (in the same light conditions). Hence, a “fast” lens. The aperture, shutter speed and ISO are all linked in the way a camera works, which I explain in much more detail in my guide to exposure, which you can see here:
https://www.findingtheuniverse.com/exposure-triangle-photography/
Let me know if that doesn’t make sense. It’s not a totally obvious concept I’m afraid, but with a bit of practice it should start to make sense 😉
Laurence
Somya says
Hi Lawrence,
Thank you so much for such nice explanations about different features of camera and lenses. I truly loved the details. I am just wondering in the sentence below, which you wrote
“So a 100mm lens on an APS-C sized sensor will give the same result in terms of the image as you would be able to achieve with a 160mm lens on a full frame camera.”
Shouldn’t it be the other way around? That is a 160 mm lens on APS-C camera will give same result for 100 mm lens on a full frame?
Thanks again, I look forward to your answer.
Somya says
Just wondering if what you wrote is correct, does it mean that for a wide angle picture (for a given lens), a full frame sensor is better than APS-C? Whereas, for a magnified/zoomed image an APS-C sensor is better?
Laurence Norah says
For a zoomed image, an APS-C sensor is often preferred as it gives more “zoom” to the lenses, hence why wildlife photographers like crop sensors 🙂
Laurence Norah says
Hi Somya,
What I wrote was correct 🙂 A 100mm lens on an APS-C sensor has a crop factor applied. You multiply the lens focal length by the crop factor (for most APS-C lenses this is 1.6x), giving an equivalent of 160mm.
Best
Laurence
Liz Hetherington says
Hi
I recently moved from full frame Nikon to Nikon mirrorless and bought the standard z6 kit with 24-70 f4 for less weight while travelling. I did trade in my F 2.8 🙁 . I’m now a bit worried I’m not going to be happy with this new lens in comparison. Your thoughts? Also do you think it’s worth getting the 50mm 1.8 prime? I’m off to Alaska hiking and kayaking. I love taking landscapes, macro and wildlife Liz
Laurence Norah says
Hi Liz,
To be honest, unless you are doing a great deal of low light work, or shooting events like weddings, I think the lighter nature of the f/4 lens will make up for the loss of one stop of light. For travel, personally as a landscape photographer I rarely find myself shooting wide open, except for the odd portrait or wildlife shot. And the one stop I don’t think is hugely significant for wildlife photography. When I’m shooting wildlife, even though I have a 70-200 f/2.8 lens, I usually have a doubler on it, so it ends up being an f/5.6, and I’ve not had any problems!
For what you are shooting, I’m not sure the 50mm prime will be much use. It’s usually a nice way to get great portraits on the cheap, but I’m not sure you’d find yourself using it all that much 🙂
I hope this helps – I think you’ll be happy with your lens choice!
Laurence
Image Earth Travel says
Great write-up and comparisons – lots of food for thought!
I have to mention that I don’t totally agree with your view on the Nikkor 28-300mm f/3.5-5.6G VR lens. I’ve been using this lens on my Nikon D600 since 2013, but travelling full time since 2014. The lens diminishes my D600’s 24.3 MP to only 10P-MP. A testing link you may be interested to check out: https://www.dxomark.com/Lenses/Nikon/AF-S-NIKKOR-28-300mm-f-3.5-5.6-ED-VR-mounted-on-Nikon-D600__834
In addition, the distortion the lens creates when taking architectural images is much higher than my previous cheaper Canon EOS550D+Canon EF-S 55-250mm f/4-5.6 that I used on my 2011, 10-month trip. (Prior to these 2 models, I used a combination of film cameras and lenses.)
Overall, I’m disappointed with my decision to swap from Canon to Nikon – not only much more expensive, but not optimal for travelling as the camera+lens weighs around 3kgs.
I’m yet to discover the best travel camera+lens combination to handle candid and landscapes (including architecture) photography. I like the idea of just having one camera body+one lens – for me, it’s always going to be a zoom lens. So, I understand that the optics of the zoom will never be as good as a fixed lens and always a compromise, but for the money I spent back in 2013 on my Nikon kit I expected better quality. Only as good as the lens right? 😉
Laurence Norah says
Hey there!
So I am a little confused – this is an FX lens on an FX body, so there should be no reduction in megapixel and it should be able to use the full sensor frame. I don’t understand how it would cause the images to go down to 10MP – that would normally only happen if you used a DX lens on an FX body.
Lens distortions are always going to be an issue for sure, although they can be often fixed in Lightroom or other photo editing software. But yes, the greater the focal range of the lens in my experience, the lower the image quality and the greater the distortion. It’s just a reality unfortunately.
I think you might overall be better off with a different system entirely in weight is more important. Perhaps one of the mirrorless systems. There are many to choose from, especially if you don’t mind stepping down a bit in sensor size. Ultimately though, you are right, good glass is critical to great images – but it tends to come at a price (and weight!).
Saikat Sen says
Disappointed to see that you have not considered the Tamron 16-300 VC f/3.5-6.3, which according to my experience is a great walk around travel lens, weighing just about a pound, cheaper than any other lens you have mentioned here and providing 16mm at the wide end, which roughly equivalent to 24mm at the APS C sensor. Needless to say that it has full-time manual override, which is very useful to those who really like to use it manually with the library to get the auto focus as and when required.
Laurence Norah says
Hi Saikat!
Thanks for your comment, and I’m delighted you’ve found a lens that works for you. There are lots of great lenses out there! I think the 18-400 Tamron I recommend is a good option, but of course, if folks would prefer something a little lighter and don’t mind trading off a bit of focal length on the zoom end, then the 16-300 is a great option too 🙂
Laurence
Lucas Peters says
Hi Laurence,
Thank you for taking the time to put this article together. I’m sure it’s a ton of research. For the next one, really consider the Sony 24-105mm G OSS f/4. I’ve been using it for travel (England, Iceland, France, Spain and Morocco) over the last few months and am super happy. On a full-frame, you can crop to get an equivalent 150mm or so range for a nice little punch-in. Nice colors. Solid sharpness (though a tad softer at 105, but not too bad), an overall better performance than the SonyZeiss 24-70mm with a larger range. Check it out when you can.
Laurence Norah says
Hey Lucas!
Thanks for the input, that’s much appreciated. I will certainly take a look at that lens and consider including it 😀
Best
Laurence
Lucas Peters says
If you liked the Canon L 24-105, you’ll probably like this a lot.
Curious why you are adverse to small primes. I probably do the vast majority of my shooting with the Sony-Zeiss 35mm 2.8 (you can get them 2nd hand pretty consistently for 300-400 now, making it a great budget option). It’s an awesomely light weight walk around kit.
Laurence Norah says
I’m not adverse to them at all, I think they are awesome bits of kit. However, for this post the goal was picking lenses that the majority of folks would use without having to carry too many lenses, and whilst I love primes for their sharpness and speed, I think the majority of folks reading this guide are looking more for a one size fits all solution 🙂
Alicja Abela says
Hi,
I am a beginner photographer and am wanting to buy a Canon 80D for a trip to NZ in November. What lense/ lenses would you suggest for getting landscape shots but also wildlife? much appreciate your advice.
Alicja
Laurence Norah says
Hi Alicja!
So for landscapes I’d recommend a wide angle lens like the Canon EF-S 10-18mm. That’s a really good value lens, and the ultrawide angle will let you get some great landscapes. The logical lens to pair it with would be the Tamrom 18-400, which would be great for pretty much everything else, including portraits and wildlife. These are not super expensive lenses, which also makes them lighter for travel, but if you wanted to spend more for some reason, I can recommend more expensive lenses too of course!
Have an amazing time in New Zealand 🙂
Laurence
Alicja Abela says
Thank you for the recommendation. After looking at the pricing of both 80d and lenses I think I will have to look for a cheaper model such as a 200D.
Are there a couple of lenses that I could take that would do a good job on landscapes, action and wildlife that would add up to around $1000 Aus doll ars max?
Laurence Norah says
Hi Alicia!
So you could get away with just the Tamron lens, and not getting the wide angle. It will work for the majority of shots. Or you could get the Sigma 18-300 and the Canon 10-18, which should come in to $1000.
I am assuming the $1000 doesn’t include the camera purchase. If that is included then you will likely be best buying that body only, and then getting the Sigma 18-300.
I hope this helps!
Laurence
Alicja says
Thank you so much. That was so helpful!
Roddy says
You have the details wrong on the Lumix wide zoom, it is 8-18 not 8-14
Laurence Norah says
Good catch! Thanks very much, I’ve updated the post 🙂
Shan says
Hi..
Great article..!
I have Nikon D3400 camera with kit lens amd 35mm Nikon prime lens.
Normally i use 35mm lens when we go for family trip. Even if it is a good lens i miss many good shots since it is not wide enough. I am thinking about buying a wide angle lens for travel photography (weekend road trip with family 🙂 ). I considered Tamron 10-24mm VC and Nikon 10-20mm VR.
What is your suggestion on my situation ? Should i stick with my kit lens for travel or buy any other walk around lens like Nikon 18-300 or Tamron 18-400?
Laurence Norah says
Hey Shan,
Thanks! It’s hard to know exactly what to advise as I’m not sure if you are into wildlife photography or any other types of photography where you will be using the extra length of a longer zoom. So whilst the 18-300 or 18-400 or certainly good options, I think if your main issue is currently not being wide enough, and wide angle photography interests you more, then a 10-24 or 10-20 would be a better choice.
Another option is to try the 18-400 or 18-300 and see if it is wide enough for your needs. The difference between 10mm and 18mm is quite a lot, but you might find it suits what you want to do with, plus gives you a lot more flexibility and choice of focal lengths.
I hope this helps!
Laurence
Arijit says
Hi, Great article! I am planning to upgrade from 550D to an 80D, and was wondering about the lenses I could pair it up with. I have a canon 50mm f/1.8 STM prime which I love (and so does the rest of the world, it seems!). I ditched my 6 yrs old canon 18-55 IS II for a sigma 18-35 f/1.8. And on the telephoto end, I am aiming for the Tamron 100-400. Have read some good reviews about it, and its probably the lightest and most easy-to carry telephoto of that range (though not the best w.r.t. IQ, but would be a huge improvement over my notoriously soft canon 55-250 IS II). I shoot birds at times, and so need a good telephoto range. I am slightly worried about losing the mid range (50-100), but was analysing my pictures, and realised I don’t shoot very often in that range. Would love to hear your opinion as well.
Laurence Norah says
Hi Arjit!
So the good news as you no doubt already know is that the 550D and the 80D have the same sized sensor and mount, so all your lenses will just work across the cameras. I would say that you would be fine without the middle focal length. We usually travel with a 17-40 and a 70-200, and we’re usually shooting either very wide at 17mm or 100mm+, so don’t miss that middle range too much! It all depends on the kind of photography you do, and it sounds like you have a solid idea of what it is you want to shoot, as well as the focal ranges you use most regularly. So if that lens suits your budget and needs, I would say to go for it!
Enjoy 🙂
Laurence
julie anne says
hello
I just want to ask what camera lens is compatible with canon m50? thanks
Laurence Norah says
Hey Julie! Great question. So you have two main options – there’s a range of EF-M lenses made by Canon for the camera, which I haven’t included here as they are quite specific to the EOS M range. The other option is to get the adaptor which will let you use any EF-S or EF lens, which you can get here: https://amzn.to/2DV5fy5
In which case, the Canon lenses listed here, as well as various third party lenses from brands like Sigma and Tamron will work. Hope this helps!
Laurence
Caitlin says
Thank you so much for this informative post. I am starting out on my travel photography journey across the Middle East and was overwhelmed by where to begin with cameras. This was very helpful!
Laurence Norah says
My pleasure! Let us know if you have any questions 🙂
Ira Sockowitz says
Laurence, thanks for a very thoughtful and in-depth discussion of options for a wide range of shooters.
As an owner of two bodies, Canon 5D and 5D Mark II respectively, I already own some of the lenses you reference. As I am planning a 9-15 moth RTW trip, I have a couple of questions for you:
1. My everyday lens is the 24-70 f2.8L so covered there. If you are willing to bear the wight, should I carry my 70-200 f.28L? I think I see it in some of your photos and wonder of its uses – close ups of nice architecture as well as long landscape shots. If not, what lighter weight alternative do you use/recommend?
2. Should I consider a smaller, more pocket-sized or easily managed camera for urban travel? I note that you use a mirrorless and again ask about the utility of doing that versus carrying my larger DSLR everywhere.
Appreciate all that you and Jessica do to aide us travelers and look forward to your reply.
Laurence Norah says
Hi Ira. My pleasure, and thanks for your kind words.
So I normally travel with a 17-40 and a 70-200. So you could say I’m missing that classic middle ground, but I find the other two lenses cover enough to make up for it. If I was going on a round the world trip, I think I would lean more towards leaving the 70-200 at home. It is massively heavy, and unless there are really specific shots you want, you might find yourself doing fine with the 24-70. I would perhaps look at investing in a 2x extender instead and using that with your 24-70. It won’t be quite as amazing as the 70-200 in terms of sharpness and autofocus speed, but if you’re not shooting fast moving subjects, or planning on selling your photos to be printed on the side of buildings, I don’t think you’ll notice 🙂
We do travel with a Lumix GX8, which is a great camera. However, if I was to start over, I think I’d likely look at one of the larger sensor compact cameras for more casual use. These are really quite compact and portable, shoot in RAW, and have decent manual controls. The later Sony RX100 models, or the Panasonic Lumix TZ100 / TX200 would be my choice I think, purely so I can have a simple solution that doesn’t come with its own lens ecosystem to worry about!
I hope this helps, happy to expand more of course 🙂
Aaron says
Thanks so much for the very helpful article.
I’ve been using a T3i and the 18-200mm for years, and am upgrading for my latest trip. I just got the Canon 77D and am contemplating whether to get a new lens as well. Realistically, I usually only carry one lens since it is a pain to switch; the 18-200 has done a great job covering both landscapes and far off subjects, but lately I’ve been more aware when it isn’t crisp. Do you think it is worth it to go for something like an 18-55 (similar to the 24-70 full frame on an APS-C I think) or similar? I’m not sure how much better the image quality would be (obviously some with the smaller range, but unclear the degree of improvement).
Laurence Norah says
Hey Aaron,
First, I’d definitely ask if you need the extra range of something like the 18-200 – if you often find yourself at the more zoom end of the lens, then you will likely be unsatisfied with a shorter focal length.
Second, a newer camera body with a better sensor is definitely going to highlight the issues with your existing lens, so if you are noticing problems on the T3i with your existing lens, these will only be more apparent with a better body unfortunately. Of course, it also depends on what you are using your photos for – whilst images can look bad when we inspect them close up, if your shots are mostly for social media or relatively small images, you might not really notice, but for larger use, and especially for printing, you will likely want a higher quality lens.
Without an idea of your budget, its hard to give an exact recommendation, but generally higher quality means higher cost unfortunately!
One good option would be to rent a couple of the lenses you are looking into to see if you can really tell the difference, and go from there 🙂
Aaron says
On past trips I’ve definitely found myself using the range of the lens to take portraits of people from far away, and get far off statues etc., though the majority of my use is landscape and smaller zooms.
For now, my pictures are mostly just stored on my computer, but eventually I would like to print larger versions of them (though more likely in the 16×24 range, not huge). I’d like to keep expenditure <$1000 on the lens – I think the rental idea is a good one!
Rick Petersen says
My camera system and lenses are pretty set, but it was informative article. Like seeing others opinions on gear which is how I found this.
Currently shooting a Lumix GX8, with the Leica 12-60mm and Leica 25mm. Love this combo and concur with your recommendation of a standard zoom and fast prime.
Laurence Norah says
Thanks Rick! We also have the GX8, it’s a lovely camera, and we have it with the Lumix 12-35 f/2.8 which is a great walkaround travel lens too. Sounds like you have the perfect set up for travel, light and discreet 🙂 HAppy shooting!
Max says
After reading all that you still don’t come up with a good travel lens??????? Whats the point????
Laurence Norah says
Hey Max! The goal of the article is to help folk navigate the fairly overwhelming choice of travel lenses, with suggestions given for different camera systems and budgets. Most folks should have an idea of what their camera system is, and then what their budget is, and from that it should be easy to use this post to decide which is going to be the best lens for them 🙂
Thomas FISCHER says
Great great article.
I am wondering for MFT what do think about thoses lenses for travelling:
– 14-140 II F3.5
– lumix 7-14 F4
– lumix leica 15 mm F1.7
– lumix 42.5 F1/7
Laurence Norah says
Hi Thomas,
Thanks very much. I do love prime lenses because you get that lovely shallow depth of field effect, and they tend to be really sharp. I didn’t recommend any in my post because, well, I would have been writing forever, but with a micro four thirds system they make good sense because the whole system is smaller, so for travelling you can still have some prime lenses. I’d say your selection is ideal for travelling, with a focal range to cover pretty much everything from landscapes to animals, plus some nice lenses for portraits. So yes, I think you’ve picked some excellent choices!
Enjoy!
Laurence
Laurence Norah says
Hi Scott, and thanks for your comment. THe post is definitely new, although we do of course update old posts to ensure they are still relevant. In this case though that isn’t the case, I just missed that lens. I’ll take a look and see where it would fit, and thanks again for your input. Cheers, Laurence.