As a professional travel photographer, I get asked about camera gear more than almost anything else, and the question that comes up most often is a simple one: which lens should I actually travel with? Usually the person asking has a camera with interchangeable lenses, a mirrorless body or a DSLR, and they want to know what to put on the front of it.
I’ve already written a guide to the best cameras for travel photography, but a camera body isn’t much use on its own. This is the companion guide, and I keep it updated as new lenses come out.
It assumes you have a camera with interchangeable lenses, so a mirrorless camera or a DSLR. Within those two groups there are a lot of different systems, and a lens built for one system generally won’t fit another. I’ve covered the major ones here: Canon (both RF and EF), Sony, Nikon (both Z and F), Fujifilm and Micro Four Thirds. Even if your exact system isn’t listed, the advice on what makes a good travel lens applies whatever you shoot.
Table of Contents:
One lens, two lenses, or a bag of primes?
Before any specific recommendation, this is the question worth settling, because it shapes everything else. When you travel, the lens you own matters far less than the lens you actually carry. The best lens in the world does nothing for you if it’s back in the hotel room because it was too heavy or felt like too much hassle to bring.
So here is what I’ve learned from packing a camera bag for trips for the better part of two decades.
For most travellers, one good walkaround zoom is all you need. A walkaround lens is one that does a bit of everything: it covers a useful spread of focal lengths, so you can frame a wide street scene and then zoom in on a carved doorway without swapping anything. You stop thinking about gear and start taking photos. If you buy just one lens from this guide, make it the walkaround zoom for your system.
The argument for a second lens is about the shots a walkaround zoom finds hard. Those zooms trade a little light-gathering ability for their range, so when the sun goes down, when you’re inside a dim church, or when you want a portrait with a soft, blurred background, a fast prime earns its place in the bag. A prime is a lens with a single focal length and no zoom at all. Because the design is simpler, primes tend to be small, light, sharp, and much better in low light than a zoom. The trade-off is that you zoom with your feet, and you change lenses more often.
A few lenses also push their range well past 200mm, into superzoom territory. These are wonderful for the freedom of never missing a distant shot, a market trader across the square or a bird on a rooftop, but be honest with yourself about the cost. Long superzooms are heavier, and image quality usually softens at the far end of the zoom. If you mostly share photos online you will never notice. If you make big prints, you might.
To put it in terms of how people actually travel: if you pack carry-on only and want to forget about gear, take one walkaround zoom and nothing else. If you’re a keen hobbyist who likes shooting in the evening, add a small fast prime, that pairing handles almost everything. If you shoot professionally or you’re chasing the best possible image quality, the constant-aperture zooms and the brand primes are where to look, and you’ll probably carry two or three lenses regardless of what I say. There’s no wrong answer here, only the kit you’ll actually want to carry all day.
The best travel lenses at a glance
Here is every lens I recommend below, grouped by camera system, with the numbers that matter most for travel: how much range you get, how fast the lens is, and how much it weighs. Find your camera system, then read the full write-up further down for the detail.
| Lens | Focal length (full-frame equivalent) | Max aperture | Weight | Stabilised | Price tier |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Canon RF (mirrorless) | |||||
| Canon RF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM | 24-105mm | f/4 | 700 g | Yes | Premium |
| Canon RF 24-105mm f/4-7.1 IS STM | 24-105mm | f/4-7.1 | 395 g | Yes | Mid-range |
| Canon RF 24-240mm f/4-6.3 IS USM | 24-240mm | f/4-6.3 | 750 g | Yes | Mid-range |
| Canon RF-S 18-150mm f/3.5-6.3 IS STM | 29-240mm | f/3.5-6.3 | 310 g | Yes | Mid-range |
| Canon RF 35mm f/1.8 IS Macro STM | 35mm | f/1.8 | 305 g | Yes | Mid-range |
| Sony E-mount (mirrorless) | |||||
| Sony FE 24-105mm f/4 G OSS | 24-105mm | f/4 | 663 g | Yes | Premium |
| Sony FE 20-70mm f/4 G | 20-70mm | f/4 | 488 g | Body IBIS | Premium |
| Sony FE 24-240mm f/3.5-6.3 OSS | 24-240mm | f/3.5-6.3 | 780 g | Yes | Mid-range |
| Sony E 18-135mm f/3.5-5.6 OSS | 27-202mm | f/3.5-5.6 | 325 g | Yes | Mid-range |
| Sony FE 40mm f/2.5 G | 40mm | f/2.5 | 173 g | Body IBIS | Mid-range |
| Nikon Z (mirrorless) | |||||
| Nikkor Z 24-120mm f/4 S | 24-120mm | f/4 | 630 g | Body IBIS | Premium |
| Nikkor Z 24-200mm f/4-6.3 VR | 24-200mm | f/4-6.3 | 570 g | Yes | Mid-range |
| Nikkor Z DX 18-140mm f/3.5-6.3 VR | 27-210mm | f/3.5-6.3 | 315 g | Yes | Mid-range |
| Nikkor Z 40mm f/2 | 40mm | f/2 | 167 g | Body IBIS | Budget |
| Fujifilm X (mirrorless) | |||||
| Fujifilm XF 16-80mm f/4 R OIS WR | 24-122mm | f/4 | 440 g | Yes | Mid-range |
| Fujifilm XF 18-135mm f/3.5-5.6 R LM OIS WR | 27-206mm | f/3.5-5.6 | 490 g | Yes | Mid-range |
| Fujifilm XF 27mm f/2.8 R WR | 41mm | f/2.8 | 84 g | Body IBIS | Budget |
| Micro Four Thirds (mirrorless) | |||||
| OM System M.Zuiko 12-100mm f/4 IS PRO | 24-200mm | f/4 | 561 g | Yes | Premium |
| Panasonic Leica DG 12-60mm f/2.8-4 | 24-120mm | f/2.8-4 | 320 g | Yes | Mid-range |
| OM System M.Zuiko 14-150mm f/4-5.6 II | 28-300mm | f/4-5.6 | 285 g | Body IBIS | Budget |
| Panasonic Lumix G Vario 12-60mm f/3.5-5.6 | 24-120mm | f/3.5-5.6 | 210 g | Yes | Budget |
| Panasonic Lumix G 20mm f/1.7 II | 40mm | f/1.7 | 87 g | Body IBIS | Budget |
| Canon EF (DSLR) | |||||
| Canon EF 24-105mm f/4L IS II USM | 24-105mm | f/4 | 795 g | Yes | Mid-range |
| Canon EF-S 18-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS USM | 29-216mm | f/3.5-5.6 | 515 g | Yes | Budget |
| Tamron 28-300mm f/3.5-6.3 Di VC PZD | 28-300mm | f/3.5-6.3 | 540 g | Yes | Budget (used) |
| Nikon F (DSLR) | |||||
| Nikon AF-S 24-120mm f/4G ED VR | 24-120mm | f/4 | 710 g | Yes | Mid-range (used) |
| Nikon AF-S DX 18-140mm f/3.5-5.6G ED VR | 27-210mm | f/3.5-5.6 | 490 g | Yes | Budget (used) |
| Nikon AF-S 28-300mm f/3.5-5.6G ED VR | 28-300mm | f/3.5-5.6 | 800 g | Yes | Mid-range (used) |
What to think about when picking a travel lens
Picking a lens to travel with is a bit different to picking a lens for other situations. Image quality matters, of course, but so do size and weight.
It would be wonderful to have a wide range of expensive lenses to take on every trip, but the reality of travel is that there’s only so much you can carry, and when you’re out sightseeing all day, you don’t want to be weighed down. So for travel it’s better to focus on a smaller number of lenses that work well across a wide variety of situations. That way you’re far more likely to actually take them with you and use them.
There are always compromises. It’s hard to find a lens that does everything well, doesn’t cost too much, and is light. But there are some very good travel lens options out there, and the rest of this section explains the terminology and features to weigh up so you can read a spec sheet with confidence.
Price considerations
I’ve done my best to provide a range of lenses across various price points. More expensive lenses tend to be more capable, but they can also be heavier, so they aren’t always the best solution for travel photography. For the budget-conscious, most systems below include a cheaper option that still does the job well.
If none of the lenses here fit your budget, my advice is to either stick with the kit lens that came with your camera, or to look at the second-hand market on Amazon or eBay. For more on that, see my guide to buying used camera equipment. Some of the strongest value in lenses today is on the used market.
Aperture
Inside a lens there’s a hole that lets light through to the camera’s sensor. This hole is the aperture. It can change in size, with a bigger aperture letting more light in and a smaller aperture letting less light in. An aperture works a lot like the pupil of your eye: in bright conditions it’s small, and in a dark environment it opens wide to gather more light.
The important number is how wide the aperture goes, because that dictates how the lens performs in low light. A wider aperture also gives you more control over depth of field. See my guide to depth of field for more on that.
In a lens’s specifications the widest aperture is always listed as a key number. It will be something like 2.8, 4.0 or 5.6, often written as f/2.8. The smaller the number, the wider the hole. Some lenses, and in particular the walkaround zooms we’re looking at here, have a variable maximum aperture. This means the aperture changes as you zoom. You might see a lens listed as f/3.5-5.6, which means it opens to f/3.5 at the wide end but only to f/5.6 once you’ve zoomed all the way in.
For travel photography, as with most photography, a wider aperture is better. More light getting in means better low-light performance and a more versatile lens, which helps with situations like taking photos of the stars or shooting the northern lights. The trade-off is that wider aperture lenses tend to be bigger, heavier and more expensive.
Focal length
The focal length of a lens is directly related to how much magnification it gives you. It’s measured in millimetres, and the general rule is that a higher number means more magnification, and a lower number means less. If you’ve used a compact camera, you’ll know this as optical zoom. Each doubling of the focal length doubles the magnification, so a 100mm lens makes everything roughly twice as big as a 50mm lens.
Matters get slightly confusing after that, because the same focal length behaves differently on different cameras. This is down to sensor size, and the effect is known as a crop factor. Take Canon’s DSLRs as an example. There are APS-C cameras with a smaller sensor, and full-frame cameras with a larger one. The same lens gives a different field of view on each. On an APS-C sensor there’s a crop factor of 1.6, so a 100mm lens behaves like a 160mm lens would on full frame.
Thankfully, lens manufacturers all use the same focal length standard, so once you know your camera’s crop factor you can multiply it by the focal length to get the equivalent focal length. Micro Four Thirds cameras have a 2x crop factor, Canon’s APS-C cameras 1.6x, and the APS-C cameras from Sony, Nikon and Fujifilm 1.5x. Don’t worry if this isn’t quite clear yet, because for every lens below I list both the native focal length and the full-frame equivalent. The equivalent is the number to compare lenses by.
For travel you want a lens that runs from fairly wide (around 16mm to 30mm equivalent) at one end through to fairly zoomed in (around 70mm to 150mm equivalent) at the other. That gives you the flexibility to shoot a wide street or building and then pick out the details. Some walkaround lenses go much further, well past 200mm. They offer tremendous versatility, but there are always trade-offs, usually in weight and in image sharpness at the long end. There’s no such thing as a perfect lens for every situation.
Filter thread
When you buy a lens it’s a good idea to pick up a UV filter to protect the front element. You may also want a polarising filter (read about polarising filters here) or a neutral density filter (see my guide to neutral density filters here).
Filters come in different sizes, and the filter thread on the lens, measured in millimetres, tells you which size you need. It’s simply the diameter of the front of the lens. If you own more than one lens, it’s worth checking the threads, because lenses that share a filter size let you share filters between them.
Image stabilisation
Camera and lens manufacturers all have their own terms for image stabilisation. These include IS (Canon), OIS (Panasonic and Fujifilm), VR (Nikon), OSS (Sony), OS (Sigma) and VC (Tamron). The list goes on. The names and the underlying technology vary, but the aim is the same: to compensate for the small movements introduced by your hands, so you can shoot at slower shutter speeds without blur.
As a rule of thumb, the slowest shutter speed you can reliably hand-hold is roughly the inverse of the focal length. So with a 200mm lens you’d want to stay at 1/200th of a second or faster, and with a 50mm lens, 1/50th. Image stabilisation lets you go slower than that, and it’s rated in stops, where a stop is a halving or doubling of light. Modern stabilisation systems offer around five stops, and often more. In practice that’s the difference between needing 1/200th of a second and getting a sharp hand-held shot at well under 1/25th.
One thing has changed in recent years. A lot of mirrorless lenses now skip in-lens stabilisation altogether and rely on stabilisation built into the camera body instead, known as IBIS, or in-body image stabilisation. Both approaches work well, and some cameras combine the two. So don’t discount a lens just because it doesn’t list its own stabilisation. Where a lens below relies on body IBIS rather than its own system, I’ve said so.
Weight
Weight is a key consideration for a travel lens, because the whole point is that you’re going to be carrying this thing around while you travel. I don’t know about you, but the less I have to carry the better, especially when I’m on my feet all day. Keep the weight of your purchase firmly in mind.
Size
Alongside weight, factor in the physical size of the lens. Portability matters for travel, particularly if you like to pack carry-on only. A lens that’s light but long and bulky still eats space in your bag, so the physical size matters as much as the weight.
Mount compatibility
When you attach a lens to a camera, it obviously has to fit. The lens has to be the right shape to lock into place, and because the camera and lens need to communicate to control focus, aperture and zoom, the electronic connections have to line up too. The system used for this is called a lens mount.
Most camera manufacturers have their own mount, and some have several. Canon cameras, for example, use an EF-S mount, an EF mount or an RF mount (there was also an EF-M mount, now discontinued). When you buy a lens you need to make sure it’s compatible with your camera’s mount. Some lenses cross over: an EF lens works on both EF and EF-S camera bodies, but an EF-S lens only works on EF-S bodies. The mount type is usually right there in the name of the lens, so a lens with “EF” in its name is an EF lens.
If you buy from a third-party manufacturer such as Tamron or Sigma, be aware that they make several versions of each lens with different mounts, so always buy the version that fits your camera.
With the terminology covered, let’s get into specific recommendations across the major camera systems. These are primarily walkaround lenses suited to travel, rather than specialist lenses for a single purpose like macro or astrophotography.
The best Canon RF lenses for travel photography
RF is Canon’s mirrorless mount, launched in 2018, and it’s now the system most new Canon buyers are on. It’s used on full-frame bodies like the R5 and R6, and on APS-C bodies like the R7 and R10. I shoot a Canon R5 myself, so this is the system I know best from daily use. Canon also makes an RF mount adaptor, which lets you fit older EF and EF-S lenses onto an RF camera, so don’t feel locked out of the EF lenses further down this guide.
1. Canon RF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM
This is the RF walkaround lens I’d point most full-frame Canon owners to first. It’s part of Canon’s premium L series, and it covers the classic 24-105mm range with a constant f/4 aperture, so the lens doesn’t get slower as you zoom in. You get sharp results, fast and quiet autofocus, and image stabilisation, in a lens that stays a sensible size for travel.
At 700g it isn’t the lightest option here, and the constant f/4 aperture is a big part of why. If you want the quality and consistency of an L-series zoom and don’t mind the weight, this is the one to get.
Check prices at Amazon and B&H.
2. Canon RF 24-105mm f/4-7.1 IS STM
If the L-series zoom above is more lens than you want to carry or to pay for, this is the lighter, more affordable alternative, and for a lot of travellers it’s actually the smarter call. It covers the same 24-105mm range and adds image stabilisation, but at 395g it’s barely more than half the weight of the f/4L.
The compromise is the aperture. It opens to f/4 at the wide end but drops to f/7.1 once zoomed in, so it gathers less light than the L lens, especially indoors. Modern Canon bodies handle higher ISO well enough that most travellers won’t mind. If you want the lightest possible full-frame walkaround zoom, this is it.
Check prices at Amazon and B&H.
3. Canon RF 24-240mm f/4-6.3 IS USM
For travellers who want one lens that reaches everything, this is Canon’s RF superzoom. The 24-240mm range takes you from wide street scenes right out to distant detail, all without changing lenses, and at 750g it stays manageable for a lens with this much reach. You get image stabilisation and Canon’s fast, quiet autofocus.
As with any superzoom, the long end is a little softer than a shorter lens would be, and the variable aperture means it isn’t a low-light champion. But for sheer convenience on a trip where you don’t want to think about gear, it’s hard to beat.
Check prices at Amazon and B&H.
4. Canon RF-S 18-150mm f/3.5-6.3 IS STM (for APS-C bodies)
If you shoot a Canon APS-C mirrorless body such as the R7, R10 or R50, this is the walkaround lens to look at. RF-S lenses use the same mount as RF lenses, but they’re designed for the smaller APS-C sensor, which keeps them compact and light. This one weighs just 310g.
On an APS-C body the 18-150mm range works out to roughly 29-240mm in full-frame terms, which is an excellent all-round travel spread. You get built-in image stabilisation too. It’s a versatile lens that won’t weigh down a small camera.
Check prices at Amazon and B&H.
5. Canon RF 35mm f/1.8 IS Macro STM (the fast prime)
This is the prime I’d add to a Canon RF kit. At 35mm it’s a natural focal length for travel, wide enough for streets and interiors but not so wide that everything looks distorted, and the fast f/1.8 aperture makes it a different animal in low light to any of the zooms above. It’s also small and light at 305g.
It has a useful trick: it focuses close enough to count as a macro lens, so you can use it for food, market detail and small objects as well as general shooting. If you carry a walkaround zoom and want one lens to handle dim evenings and tighter detail work, this is a great companion.
Check prices at Amazon and B&H.
The best Sony lenses for travel photography
This section covers Sony’s E-mount lenses, which fit their mirrorless cameras. Two things are worth knowing. First, “FE” lenses work on both full-frame bodies like the a7 range and APS-C bodies like the a6700, while non-FE E-mount lenses are designed for APS-C only. Second, Sony’s “G” series lenses are their higher-end line, similar in spirit to Canon’s L series. Sony’s lens stabilisation is called OSS, and most current Sony bodies also have stabilisation built into the camera.
1. Sony FE 24-105mm f/4 G OSS
This is the walkaround lens most full-frame Sony owners settle on, and for good reason. It covers the hugely useful 24-105mm range with a constant f/4 aperture, it’s a G-series lens so image quality is excellent across the frame, and it includes OSS stabilisation. At 663g it’s a fair weight, but it’s a lens you can leave on the camera for an entire trip.
Check prices at Amazon and B&H.
2. Sony FE 20-70mm f/4 G
If you find yourself shooting wide more than you shoot long, this is the more interesting choice. It’s a newer G-series zoom that starts at a wide 20mm, which is wonderful for architecture, tight interiors and dramatic landscapes, and runs to a useful 70mm. At 488g it’s noticeably lighter than the 24-105mm too.
It has no in-lens stabilisation, relying instead on your camera body’s IBIS, so it pairs best with a recent Sony body. For travellers who love a wide perspective, the extra width at the short end is worth more than the extra reach the 24-105mm gives at the long end.
Check prices at Amazon and B&H.
3. Sony FE 24-240mm f/3.5-6.3 OSS
This is the Sony full-frame superzoom, and it’s the one-lens answer for the traveller who never wants to miss a shot. The 24-240mm range covers nearly everything, from wide scenes to distant wildlife and detail, and Sony’s cameras handle the variable aperture well thanks to their strong high-ISO performance.
At 780g it’s the heaviest lens in this Sony selection, which is the price of all that reach, and image quality softens a little at the very long end. For the freedom of carrying a single lens, plenty of travellers happily accept that.
Check prices at Amazon and B&H.
4. Sony E 18-135mm f/3.5-5.6 OSS (for APS-C bodies)
If you shoot a Sony APS-C camera, this is the walkaround lens to get. The 18-135mm range works out to roughly 27-202mm in full-frame terms, which is an excellent spread for travel, and it includes OSS stabilisation. At 325g it’s light, and it’s well priced, so it’s an easy and worthwhile upgrade from the kit lens that came with your camera.
Check prices at Amazon and B&H.
5. Sony FE 40mm f/2.5 G (the fast prime)
This is the prime I’d pair with a Sony walkaround zoom. It’s tiny and weighs just 173g, so it adds almost nothing to your bag, yet it’s a G-series lens with lovely image quality and a fast f/2.5 aperture for low light and softly blurred backgrounds. The 40mm focal length is a versatile, natural-looking length for travel, good for street scenes, people and details alike.
It relies on body IBIS rather than its own stabilisation. On any recent Sony body that’s a non-issue.
Check prices at Amazon and B&H.
The best Nikon Z lenses for travel photography
Z is Nikon’s mirrorless mount, and it’s where Nikon has put its energy in recent years. It’s used on full-frame bodies like the Z6 and Z7 lines, and on APS-C bodies (Nikon calls APS-C “DX”) like the Z50 and Z fc. Nikon’s stabilisation is called VR, and modern Z bodies also have in-body stabilisation, so some Z lenses leave VR out and rely on the camera instead.
1. Nikkor Z 24-120mm f/4 S
This is the walkaround lens I’d recommend to most full-frame Nikon Z owners. It’s an S-line lens, Nikon’s higher-end designation, and it covers a slightly longer 24-120mm range than the usual 24-105mm, with a constant f/4 aperture and excellent sharpness across the frame. At 630g it’s a reasonable weight for what it does.
It has no in-lens VR, relying on the body’s IBIS, so it suits any current Z camera well. If you want one high-quality lens to leave on a full-frame Z body, this is the obvious pick.
Check prices at Amazon and B&H.
2. Nikkor Z 24-200mm f/4-6.3 VR
This is Nikon’s Z superzoom, and it’s a particularly good one. The 24-200mm range handles almost any travel situation in a single lens, and at 570g it’s impressively light for the reach on offer, lighter, in fact, than the 24-120mm above. It includes VR stabilisation.
The aperture is variable and the long end is a touch softer than a dedicated telephoto, the usual superzoom trade-offs, but the combination of range and low weight makes this one of the best one-lens travel options of any system.
Check prices at Amazon and B&H.
3. Nikkor Z DX 18-140mm f/3.5-6.3 VR (for DX bodies)
If you shoot a Nikon Z DX (APS-C) camera, this is the walkaround lens for you. The 18-140mm range works out to around 27-210mm in full-frame terms, a great all-round travel spread, and it includes VR stabilisation. At 315g it’s light and keeps a small Z DX body nicely balanced.
Check prices at Amazon and B&H.
4. Nikkor Z 40mm f/2 (the fast prime)
This is the prime to add to a Nikon Z kit, and it’s remarkably good value. At 167g it’s tiny, and the fast f/2 aperture makes it far better in low light than any of the zooms here, as well as giving you that soft background blur for portraits and detail shots. The 40mm focal length is an easy, natural length to shoot with while travelling.
It relies on body IBIS rather than its own stabilisation. If you want one inexpensive lens to handle evenings and people shots alongside a walkaround zoom, this is it.
Check prices at Amazon and B&H.
The best Fujifilm X lenses for travel photography
Fujifilm’s X-mount cameras use an APS-C sensor, and the system is popular with travellers because the bodies and lenses are compact and the cameras are a pleasure to shoot with. X-mount cameras have a 1.5x crop factor. Fujifilm’s lens stabilisation is called OIS, and recent X bodies also have in-body stabilisation.
1. Fujifilm XF 16-80mm f/4 R OIS WR
This is the Fujifilm walkaround lens I’d recommend first. The 16-80mm range works out to around 24-122mm in full-frame terms, the classic walkaround spread, and it has a constant f/4 aperture so it doesn’t slow down as you zoom. It includes OIS stabilisation and weather resistance (the “WR” in the name), and at 440g it stays light. It’s a natural match for almost any X-series body.
Check prices at Amazon and B&H.
2. Fujifilm XF 18-135mm f/3.5-5.6 R LM OIS WR
If you want more reach in one lens, this is the Fujifilm choice. The 18-135mm range is roughly 27-206mm in full-frame terms, enough to cover wide scenes and distant detail without a lens change. It’s weather resistant, has effective OIS stabilisation, and at 490g it’s still very travel-friendly for a lens with this much range.
The variable aperture makes it a little slower in low light than the 16-80mm, but for a do-everything travel lens on an X-series camera it’s an excellent option.
Check prices at Amazon and B&H.
3. Fujifilm XF 27mm f/2.8 R WR (the fast prime)
This is the prime that turns a Fujifilm camera into a pocketable travel setup. It’s a pancake lens, just 84g, so it’s barely larger than a body cap, yet it gives you a fast f/2.8 aperture and lovely image quality. At 27mm it’s around 41mm full-frame equivalent, a natural everyday focal length for street and travel photography.
It relies on body stabilisation rather than its own. If you want the smallest, lightest possible Fujifilm kit, a body and this lens is a wonderful way to travel.
Check prices at Amazon and B&H.
The best Micro Four Thirds lenses for travel photography
Micro Four Thirds is a mirrorless system shared by Panasonic and OM System (formerly Olympus). The sensor is smaller than APS-C, which is what allows the cameras and lenses to be so compact, and the system has long been a favourite with travellers who want to keep their kit small. Micro Four Thirds was part of our own travel kit for years, when we travelled with a Panasonic GX8, so I have a soft spot for how light it lets you pack.
One quirk to know: both manufacturers have their own stabilisation, and to get the very best results you ideally match the brand of lens to the brand of body. The cameras have a 2x crop factor, so you double the focal length to get the full-frame equivalent.
1. OM System M.Zuiko 12-100mm f/4 IS PRO
If you want the best single travel lens for Micro Four Thirds, this is it. The 12-100mm range is a 24-200mm full-frame equivalent, which is just about the perfect walkaround spread, and it has a constant f/4 aperture throughout. It’s weather sealed, and its stabilisation is remarkable: the lens is rated to around 5 stops on its own, and OM System’s 5-axis Sync IS pairs it with the camera’s in-body stabilisation for even steadier handheld shots.
At 561g it’s the heaviest lens in this Micro Four Thirds selection, but in absolute terms that’s still light for a lens covering this much range at a constant aperture. It’s the lens I’d build a Micro Four Thirds travel kit around.
Check prices at Amazon and B&H.
2. Panasonic Leica DG 12-60mm f/2.8-4
This is the walkaround lens to look at if you shoot a Panasonic body. The 12-60mm range is a 24-120mm full-frame equivalent, and it’s sharp throughout, even wide open. The f/2.8-4 aperture is faster at the wide end than most walkaround zooms, it includes Power OIS stabilisation, and at 320g it’s light. It’s a lens that quietly does almost everything you’d want on a trip.
Check prices at Amazon and B&H.
3. OM System M.Zuiko 14-150mm f/4-5.6 II
For more reach in one lens, this is the Micro Four Thirds superzoom to consider. The 14-150mm range is a 28-300mm full-frame equivalent, so it covers nearly everything you could want, and it’s weather sealed with a good reputation for sharpness. The variable aperture makes it a touch slower than the lenses above, but that’s what keeps it light at just 285g.
It has no in-lens stabilisation and relies on the body’s IBIS, which OM System bodies do very well. For a travel lens that goes wide to long without a lens change, it’s a bargain.
Check prices at Amazon and B&H.
4. Panasonic Lumix G Vario 12-60mm f/3.5-5.6 (budget pick)
This is essentially a slower, more affordable version of the Panasonic Leica 12-60mm above, at a fraction of the price and lighter too, at just 210g. For a lens this cheap it’s impressively well specified: it has image stabilisation and a splash and dust resistant body, which makes it a good travel lens. If you want a capable Micro Four Thirds walkaround zoom without spending much, start here.
Check prices at Amazon and B&H.
5. Panasonic Lumix G 20mm f/1.7 II (the fast prime)
This little pancake lens is the prime to add to a Micro Four Thirds kit. At just 87g it’s almost weightless, and the fast f/1.7 aperture makes it excellent in low light and lovely for portraits and detail with a softly blurred background. At 20mm it’s a 40mm full-frame equivalent, a versatile everyday focal length.
It has no in-lens stabilisation, so it leans on body IBIS, which most modern Micro Four Thirds bodies have. As a tiny, fast companion to a walkaround zoom, it’s hard to beat for the money.
Check prices at Amazon and B&H.
The best Canon EF lenses for travel photography (DSLR)
EF is Canon’s long-running DSLR mount, and if you shoot a Canon DSLR there’s still an enormous range of EF lenses to choose from. The good news for travellers on a budget is twofold. First, plenty of EF lenses are still sold new. Second, the used EF market is one of the best places to find a real bargain right now, because so many photographers have moved to mirrorless. I still use EF lenses on my own RF body via the adaptor, so they’re far from obsolete.
1. Canon EF 24-105mm f/4L IS II USM
This is the EF walkaround lens I’d point full-frame Canon DSLR owners to. It’s an L-series lens with a constant f/4 aperture across the 24-105mm range, it’s sharp, and it has image stabilisation. On an APS-C Canon DSLR it gives an equivalent of roughly 38-168mm, which still works well for travel. At 795g it’s a substantial lens, but it’s a proven, do-everything choice.
Check prices at Amazon and B&H.
2. Canon EF-S 18-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS USM (for APS-C DSLRs)
If you shoot a Canon APS-C DSLR, such as one of the Rebel models, this is the walkaround lens to look at. It’s an EF-S lens, designed for APS-C bodies, and the 18-135mm range works out to around 29-216mm full-frame equivalent, a strong all-round travel spread.
The “USM” version uses Canon’s Nano USM focus motor, which is fast and quiet, and the lens has image stabilisation. At 515g it’s a comfortable weight, and it’s well priced, so it’s an easy step up from a kit lens.
Check prices at Amazon and B&H.
3. Tamron 28-300mm f/3.5-6.3 Di VC PZD (the superzoom)
For a single lens that reaches everything on a full-frame Canon DSLR, this Tamron is a long-standing favourite with value-minded travellers. The 28-300mm range covers wide scenes through to distant detail, it has Tamron’s VC stabilisation, and at 540g it’s relatively light for a superzoom.
One thing to know before you go looking: Tamron no longer makes this lens new, so it’s a used-market buy now. That isn’t a bad thing. It keeps the price low, and a used superzoom like this is a lot of versatility for the money.
Check prices at Amazon and B&H.
The best Nikon F lenses for travel photography (DSLR)
F is Nikon’s DSLR mount, and like Canon’s EF mount it has a vast back catalogue of lenses. Nikon has wound down its F-mount lens range as it has focused on the Z system, so the lenses below are best bought used. As with Canon’s EF lenses, that’s good news if you’re after value: the used Nikon F market is full of capable travel lenses at prices that have come down a long way. Nikon’s DSLR stabilisation is called VR.
1. Nikon AF-S 24-120mm f/4G ED VR
This is the walkaround lens I’d look for on a full-frame Nikon DSLR (Nikon calls full frame “FX”). It covers a useful 24-120mm range with a constant f/4 aperture, it’s sharp enough to use all day, and it has VR stabilisation.
At 710g it’s a fair weight, but as a one-lens travel solution for an FX DSLR it’s a sensible, well-rounded choice, and a good-value one on the used market.
Check prices at Amazon and B&H.
2. Nikon AF-S DX 18-140mm f/3.5-5.6G ED VR (for DX DSLRs)
For a Nikon APS-C DSLR (a DX body), this is the walkaround lens to find. It covers a wide focal range, works out to roughly 27-210mm in full-frame terms, and produces sharp images with VR stabilisation built in.
At 490g it’s relatively light, and on the used market it’s very well priced for what you get. It will serve you well as an all-day travel lens.
Check prices at Amazon and B&H.
3. Nikon AF-S 28-300mm f/3.5-5.6G ED VR (the superzoom)
If you want one lens that does everything on a full-frame Nikon DSLR, this is the F-mount superzoom. The 28-300mm range covers wide scenes right out to distant subjects, and it has VR stabilisation. At 800g it’s the heaviest lens in this Nikon selection, which is the cost of that reach, and as with any superzoom the long end softens a little.
Nikon has discontinued this lens, so it’s a used-market buy. For the convenience of never changing a lens on a trip, a used copy is good value.
Check prices at Amazon.
Frequently asked questions
What is the best all-round lens for travel photography?
For most travellers, the best all-round lens is a walkaround zoom that covers roughly 24mm to 105mm in full-frame terms. That range is wide enough for streets, buildings and landscapes, and long enough to pick out detail, so you can shoot most of a trip without changing lenses.
If you want even more reach in a single lens, a superzoom that runs to 200mm or beyond gives you that, at the cost of some extra weight and slightly softer results at the long end. Pick the walkaround zoom built for your camera system from the relevant section above.
Is one lens enough for travel, or do I need two?
One good walkaround zoom is enough for most travellers, and there’s a lot to be said for the simplicity of never thinking about which lens to use.
A second lens earns its place if you regularly shoot in low light or want portraits with a soft, blurred background. In that case, add a small fast prime to your walkaround zoom. That two-lens kit handles almost any situation without becoming a burden to carry.
Should I choose a prime or a zoom lens for travel?
For a single travel lens, a zoom is the more practical choice, because the flexibility of changing focal length without changing lenses matters a lot when you’re moving through a place.
Primes have a single focal length and no zoom, but they’re usually smaller, lighter and much better in low light. The ideal travel kit for a keen photographer is often both: a zoom as the everyday lens, and one fast prime for evenings, interiors and portraits.
What focal length is best for travel photography?
A range of roughly 24mm to 105mm in full-frame equivalent terms covers the great majority of travel photography. The wide end handles streets, interiors and landscapes, and the longer end lets you isolate details and distant subjects.
If you love wide, dramatic shots, look for a lens that starts nearer 16mm to 20mm. If you want to reach distant subjects, a superzoom going to 200mm or more is worth the extra weight.
Is it better to spend money on a new lens or a new camera body?
If your budget only stretches to one upgrade, a better lens usually makes more difference to your photos than a newer body. A good lens improves sharpness, low-light performance and the look of your images, and it will outlast several camera bodies.
The exception is if your current camera is clearly holding you back, for example with poor autofocus or weak high-ISO performance. In that case, fix the body first. If you’re not sure your camera is the limitation, put the money into glass.
Are DSLR lenses still worth buying in 2026?
Yes. If you shoot a DSLR, the lenses still take excellent photos, and your camera hasn’t suddenly stopped working because mirrorless exists.
Because so many photographers have moved to mirrorless, the used DSLR lens market is full of capable lenses at prices that have dropped a long way. If you own a Canon EF or Nikon F mount camera, that’s an opportunity. You can also use many DSLR lenses on a mirrorless body of the same brand with an adaptor, so they aren’t a dead end if you upgrade later.
What is the best budget lens for travel photography?
The best budget travel lens is the cheaper walkaround zoom for your camera system, and most systems above include one. A budget zoom typically has a slower variable aperture than a premium lens, but it will still give you image stabilisation and a useful focal range.
The other route to a bargain is the used market. A used walkaround zoom or a used DSLR lens can offer far more lens for your money than a new budget lens, so it’s always worth checking what’s available second-hand before you buy.
Further reading
That’s my guide to the best travel lenses. Before you head off, here are a few more resources to help you on your photography journey.
- My guide to picking the best travel camera, because a lens isn’t much good without a camera to pair it with. We also have guides to the best point and shoot cameras, the best mirrorless cameras, the best cameras for hiking and backpacking, the best action cameras, and the best DSLR cameras.
- Photos need editing to get the best out of them. See our guide to the best photo editing software, and if you need something to edit on, our guide to the best laptops for photo editing.
- If you’re shopping for someone else, see our guide to the best gifts for photographers.
- I have a review of the Peak Design camera strap system as well as the Peak Design travel tripod.
- My series of photography tips, which I’m always expanding with posts like this one, and my photography location guides to help you get the best shot in places around the world.
- An overview of our travel photography gear, in case you wondered what a professional photographer keeps in the bag.
- A beginners’ guide to improving your travel photos for those starting out, plus our guide to how to use a DSLR.
- Our reasons why you need a travel tripod.
Looking to improve your photography?
If you found this post helpful and you want to improve your photography overall, you might want to check out my online travel photography course.
Since launching the course in 2016, I’ve helped over 2,500 students learn how to take better photos. The course covers pretty much everything you need to know, from the basics of how a camera works through to composition, light and photo editing. It also covers more advanced topics, including astrophotography, long exposure photography, flash photography and HDR photography.
You get feedback from me as you progress, access to webinars, interviews and videos, and membership of a Facebook group where you can get feedback on your work and take part in regular challenges. It’s available for a one-off price for lifetime access, and you can take a look by clicking here.
And that’s it for my guide to picking the best camera lens for travel photography. I’ll keep this post updated as new lenses are released for the various systems, so do check back when you need advice. I’m also happy to answer your specific questions about picking a lens for your camera, so pop them in the comments below and I’ll do my best to help.
Vasilis says
Excellent guide, thanks a lot from Greece! 🙂
Laurence Norah says
My pleasure! We hope to visit Greece later this year!
Vasilis says
Great!
Vladielna says
Hi Laurence,
Hope it’s not weird to get a comment on this post in 2023. I have a sony Alpha 6400 that I got earlier this year and I was wondering about the 55-210 e-mount lens you mentioned. My dad bought it for his 5N back in the day and I was hoping to use it for my camera however I have noticed that the AF is much worse on the 6400 than it is on the 5N where it will take multiple times to try and find the right focal length over the span of 3 seconds and yet still not be in focus I am not sure why that is and I was hoping you could provide some insight into this behaviour.
Thanks,
Vladielena
Laurence Norah says
Hi Vladielna
Of course, you are welcome to comment. I do keep our content up to date, so even if a post was originally published a while ago I do my best to keep to relevant 🙂
On to your question. So the 6400 should have a pretty good focus system, but it’s hard to diagnose the issue without knowing the focus mode in use and what scenario you are taking photos of. Some focus situations are more challenging for a camera to work in, such as lower light scenes or scenes where there isn’t much to focus on (like a plain surface). If you could let me know what you are struggling to photograph and focus mode you are using I can do my best to offer some input!
Best
Laurence
Tim says
Hi,
I’ve been looking to get into photography for a bit. Pretty settled on getting the 6D Mark II. Any recommendations for lens? I do a good bit of hiking, some traveling through the city and museums, some international travel, and a good bit of stuff outside. Any help is appreciated!
Laurence Norah says
Hey Tim,
Sure thing. So a lot will obviously depend on your budget. A good walk around lens with the 6D might be the Canon 24-105 f/4 L, which covers a useful focal range. If you want more range and are on more of a budget, Tamron’s 28-300 is a good option, although it isn’t quite as wide. Personally I prefer a wide angle lens, but it’s a personal preference. You can always shoot more frames and stitch them together of course.
If you wanted to give me an idea of budget, I’m happy to give some more ideas. Just one thing to bear in mind is that there’s always some sort of trade off when it comes to gear, be it maximum aperture, weight, cost or reach. No-one has come up with the perfect lens that does everything yet!
Cheers
Laurence
Tim says
Hi Laurence!
Thanks for the response! I think the 24-105 is purchasable with the body. For budget I’d probably like to stay under 2k for lens as I’m just getting my feet wet. I’ve seen a canon 50mm f/1.8 stm recommended, any thoughts on thus lens ?
Laurence Norah says
Hey Tim,
My pleasure! Yes, the 6D Mark II does usually have the option for the 24-105 as a “kit” lens, but it’s definitely more than your standard kit lens and worth adding on in my opinion.
The 50mm f/1.8, or nifty fifty as it’s often referred to, is a fantastic lens, especially for the price. I recommend everyone has one. It’s not necessarily a “travel” lens because most folks looking for a travel lens want something that covers a range of focal lengths. However, I always suggest people pick one up because it’s a great option for portrait work and anything else where you want a nice shallow depth of field. It can also work as a travel lens, you just have to get used to moving yourself around rather than using the zoom, which is actually not a bad thing.
Let me know if you have any other questions, and enjoy your new gear!
Laurence
Arijit says
Hi Laurence,
Great article! Hope you would be able to help me take my decision.
I own a Nikon D5200 (DX) and looking for a single lens which covers all or most aspects of photography (wide angle, portrait, zoom, etc). I had filtered down to 3 lenses- Nikon 18-300 mm (best for Nikon cameras as per your article), Sigma 18-300mm with Macro, Tamron 16-300 with Macro. I had Tamron 18-400 mm in my mind as well but then I thought that additional 100mm is not something I would fancy, as 300mm is still good enough for me and with the Sigma 300mm lens I am getting macro function.
All these 3 lenses are in same price range. But what I researched and understood was that Sigma lenses have best image quality of the three. Undoubtedly, Nikkor has the best overall optics but with Sigma I am also getting a macro feature which I feel I might use more than the 300mm though it is still good to have range.
I also heard that with Sigma 18-300, we might experience stabilization issues at higher mm for video. My requirement is to have the best of image and video quality with a single lens.
Would be grateful if you could share some thoughts on what should I consider.
Thanks in advance!
Laurence Norah says
Hey Arjit,
Thanks very much! So the lenses you list have some differences. Between the Tamron and the Sigma the Sigma as you say should have the best image quality, specifically sharpness, which is definitely important. Overall though the Nikon is generally better. I would also say that the Macro designation of the Tamron and Sigma is a bit misleading. Whilst they have a slightly closer minimum focus distance than the Nikon, neither are true macro lenses. A true macro lens would allow you to shoot an image with 1:1 magnification, meaning that the size of the image in real life is the same size as it’s reproduced on the sensor. The Tamron and Sigma both only offer a 1:3 magnification.
The reason these two lenses have the macro name is because they can both focus on objects that are within 39cm of the camera, whilst the Nikon has a minimum focus distance of 49cm. Honestly, this is not a big difference, and you will not get a real macro experience from any of these lenses, certainly not enough to make a difference. Usually a macro lens can focus on objects that are 30cm or less from the end of the camera.
So for this reason I would probably recommend the Nikon for overall best performance 🙂
I hope this helps!
Laurence
Debasis Goswami says
You never want to put a UV filter for a digital camera. Useless and makes any lens perform poorly. That was such a put off right at the beginning.
Laurence Norah says
Hi Debasis,
I have to respectfully disagree. A UV filter has protected my lens from damage on a number of occasions, where the filter has been destroyed but the lens is fine. In addition, a good quality UV filter is just a piece of glass, as is the rest of the lens. Studies have shown minimal to no impact in image quality, and it’s generally not noticeable either unless you’re pixel peeping.
In addition, the majority of “weather-sealed” lenses are only truly weather sealed with a filter on.
Of course, I don’t advocate putting a $10 filter on a thousand dollar+ lens. But I do think they are worth it. That said, each to their own. Whatever works for you is best 🙂
Thanks for your comment,
Laurence
Diane says
I own a Canon 80D with 10-18 lens, 15-85 Aps-cl ens (probably selling),55-250 (never used probably selling) and Tamron 18-400. I just purchased 24-70 f/4L lens and am thinking of purchasing Canon 6D mark II.
I use the 80D for everything and I am thinking the full frame 6DMII will help me get nice crisp pictures in low light and other shots. Do you think this is a good idea to have the crop and get a FF camera?
I am not a beginner and not advanced photographer in between the two and still learning
Laurence Norah says
Hi Diane,
The 6D Mark 2 is a great camera and will compliment your crop sensor nicely. I always have two bodies, although they are both full frame, it just makes it easier to get shots sometimes without having to mess around switching lenses.
Enjoy!
Laurence
gail says
Hello Laurence,
We enjoyed your very well written article. We are getting ready to leave on safari and are looking at purchasing a mirrorless camera. We are very intermediate photographers. We currently use a Canon EOS 7D. We were contemplating staying with Canon due to familiarity. However, your article, as well as others, is pointing toward Sony. What is your recommendation? Lenses, etc? The Sony A7III sounds like the best set up (battery life, etc). What about ease of use? Also, I suppose a need a 200mm or longer telephoto lens, correct. I’m not sure I wanted to invest $5,000 in a camera as we are far from avid photographers. We are traveling more though and expect to get more into photography as we travel. Looking forward to your feedback. Thank you!
Laurence Norah says
Hi Gail,
Thanks very much. I would say that if you are happy with the Canon 7D, you should stick with it and spend the money on a lens. A crop sensor camera is a good option for wildlife photography as it gets you closer to the action with the same focal length lens compared to a full frame camera. I would also add that if you are used to the Canon menu system, the Sony will take some getting used to, and many Canon photographers are not keen on the color of the images that Sony cameras produce.
I would instead suggest that you invest in a decent lens for wildlife photography for your Canon, or at least look to rent one. I’d advise something like the Canon 70-200 f/2.8 + a 2x doubler (quite a flexible setup), or the Sigma 150-500. The latter is a bit slower, but the zoom range is pretty amazing!
I hope this helps, let me know if I can help further,
Best,
Laurence
EllenH says
I have one more question…if I rent a lens or two for my vacation to try out… which ones you choose to shoot Athens Greece and Paros Greece… I have only been in photography 6 months and have a canon EOS rebel T7i
EllenM says
I have a Canon Rebel T7i… on my next travel we are going to Greece… I will be taking pictures of sunsets, archeology sites, views of the acropolis, Parthenon, mount lycabetta; views of boats and white houses… what is your suggested lens? Sigma 18-300 or the canon 50?
Laurence Norah says
Hi Ellen,
I would definitely go for the 18-300 which would give you a lot more range and choices for your photography. The 50mm is a great lens, but having a fixed focal length will definitely restrict you!
Best
Laurence
Ellen says
I am considering renting… should I stay with this option?
Laurence Norah says
Hi Ellen,
It’s up to you! Are you renting because you want to trial a lens for a future purchase, or just as a one-off? I’d say the Sigma lens you previously mentioned would be a good option in general, but you could rent a more premium lens. I don’t think it would make a huge difference – normally I’d recommend renting for more specialised trips like safaris or other wildlife encounters, where a really nice expensive zoom lens will make a huge difference – but it’s not a lens you’d really use very often otherwise.
I hope this helps 🙂
Laurence
Jose says
Hello from Puerto Rico!
I currently own a Canon 6D Mark II eith a 24-105 mm f4 II Lens. I also own a Rokinon 14mm f 2.8 AF and a Tamron 35-105 mm f2.8.
I have some traveling planned for November to Spain, France, Italy and Portugal. What should I bring in? Do I need a better Zoom lens such as a 70-200 mm ? I currently have a 75-300 mm f3.5-5.6 crop sensor lens from a previous Canon Camera.
Can’t wait for your recommendations!
Best Regards!
Jose
Laurence Norah says
Hi Jose!
it really depends what you want to photography and how much weight you want to carry! If it’s primarily landscapes and street photography, and you only want one lens, then the 24-105 would be my suggestions. If you want wider shots, then the Rokinon would be the best option.
It’s less likely you will need the extra zoom – it can be useful in some specific situations like wildlife and for candid portraiture from a distance, but it’s a lot of additional weight that you probably won’t use that often!
I hope this helps – have a great time in Europe!
Laurence
Jose says
Thanks!
????
Gary says
I travel with the Canon 24-70 f/4 on a 6D. Compared to both the 24-70 f/2.8 and 24-105, it weighs less, cost less, and has a sort-of macro mode (.7x) for flowers and any strange bugs one meets. The extra 35mm on the long end I hardly ever miss. I either need no more than 70 or go straight to wishing I had 400.
Laurence Norah says
Hi Gary!
Great to hear that you have found the right lens for you 🙂 It’s certainly an excellent lens, and a great lighter option for sure. You are right, those few mm don’t make that much difference, especially with how many megapixels most cameras give you these days and the power of cropping!
Happy photography!
Laurence
Usama Zulfiqar says
Hi Laurence,
Great article and fully endorse your views. I am enthusiastic photographer and have Nikon D750 with 24-120mm f/4, 50mm 1.8 and 85mm 1.8 lens+Godox Flash. I am planning for a short trip to my home town with loads of indoors gathering and few outdoors gatherings as well, but wanted to carry only two lens max.due to weight issue.
I had previously used 24-120mm for shooting a wedding and it went very well as my photos were as good /sharp as photos taken by professional photographer. I am quite comfortable with this lens, despite losing bokeh compared to 50mm and 85mm.
I will also take some portraits and shots of toddlers and kids running around. My question, which lens you recommend to pack in my carrying bag?
Regards
Laurence Norah says
Hi Usama
Thank you very much 🙂 So I would say that if you are happy with the performance of the 24-120 f/4, then that would be a great option as it’s going to be pretty versatile. For the other lens (I think you wanted two), I’d personally go with the 85mm as it’s going to be better for portraits, and will be easier for candid work as you will be able to get photos of people with them noticing less. The 50mm is a great lens too, but it’s harder to get those candid moments if you have to stand closer.
I hope this helps. If you really only wanted to take 1 lens I’d probably pick the 50mm as you could always crop, and it will be a bit more versatile for more situations.
Best
Laurence
Shan says
Hi..
On my weekend travels i normally use NIkon 18-55 VR. And Nikon 35mm 1.8G for low light situation.
I don’t take Nikor 55-300 and Tamron wide angle in my bag for travel. It’s a little inconvenient to swap the lens for telephoto or wide angle in some situation since travelling with family (we have 2 year old kid) and the weight of the bag carrying too many lens..!
I’m thinking to buy a good walk around lens (Nikor or third party) and sell both NIkor 18-55VR and 55-300 (or at least keep my first lens 18-55VR).
Do you have any suggestion on my situation? what should be the walk around lens i should go for?
Laurence Norah says
Hi Shan,
Obviously it will depend on your budget. I’d suggest either the 18-300mm in the list above, which would be a good all around option. Alternatively if you want a wider aperture for lower light, then you might consider the 24-70 2.8. However it has much less focal length and is also quite expensive, so I think the 18-300 would be a better walkaround option, and would replace your two other lenses you mention.
Best
Laurence
Peter says
Thanks for your great articles Laurence, I have found them very informative and clearly explained, which is most helpful to a beginner photographer trying to learn more about the key features of the camera/lens setup and how they impact picture quality. Please forgive the newbie question, but in describing the lenses, you talk about a lens being faster or slower than another? What does that mean in layman’s terms, ie. how is a lens faster than another ? does it refer to the time the light takes to reach the sensor and hence how quickly you can take multiple shots or something else ?
Laurence Norah says
Hi Peter!
My pleasure. That is a great question, and I should definitely explain it in the article. However, first I’ll tell you 🙂
So, a fast lens is so called because it will have a wider aperture. A wider aperture lets more light in, which means you can use a faster shutter speed, compared to a lens with a smaller aperture (in the same light conditions). Hence, a “fast” lens. The aperture, shutter speed and ISO are all linked in the way a camera works, which I explain in much more detail in my guide to exposure, which you can see here:
https://www.findingtheuniverse.com/exposure-triangle-photography/
Let me know if that doesn’t make sense. It’s not a totally obvious concept I’m afraid, but with a bit of practice it should start to make sense 😉
Laurence
Somya says
Hi Lawrence,
Thank you so much for such nice explanations about different features of camera and lenses. I truly loved the details. I am just wondering in the sentence below, which you wrote
“So a 100mm lens on an APS-C sized sensor will give the same result in terms of the image as you would be able to achieve with a 160mm lens on a full frame camera.”
Shouldn’t it be the other way around? That is a 160 mm lens on APS-C camera will give same result for 100 mm lens on a full frame?
Thanks again, I look forward to your answer.
Somya says
Just wondering if what you wrote is correct, does it mean that for a wide angle picture (for a given lens), a full frame sensor is better than APS-C? Whereas, for a magnified/zoomed image an APS-C sensor is better?
Laurence Norah says
For a zoomed image, an APS-C sensor is often preferred as it gives more “zoom” to the lenses, hence why wildlife photographers like crop sensors 🙂
Laurence Norah says
Hi Somya,
What I wrote was correct 🙂 A 100mm lens on an APS-C sensor has a crop factor applied. You multiply the lens focal length by the crop factor (for most APS-C lenses this is 1.6x), giving an equivalent of 160mm.
Best
Laurence
Liz Hetherington says
Hi
I recently moved from full frame Nikon to Nikon mirrorless and bought the standard z6 kit with 24-70 f4 for less weight while travelling. I did trade in my F 2.8 🙁 . I’m now a bit worried I’m not going to be happy with this new lens in comparison. Your thoughts? Also do you think it’s worth getting the 50mm 1.8 prime? I’m off to Alaska hiking and kayaking. I love taking landscapes, macro and wildlife Liz
Laurence Norah says
Hi Liz,
To be honest, unless you are doing a great deal of low light work, or shooting events like weddings, I think the lighter nature of the f/4 lens will make up for the loss of one stop of light. For travel, personally as a landscape photographer I rarely find myself shooting wide open, except for the odd portrait or wildlife shot. And the one stop I don’t think is hugely significant for wildlife photography. When I’m shooting wildlife, even though I have a 70-200 f/2.8 lens, I usually have a doubler on it, so it ends up being an f/5.6, and I’ve not had any problems!
For what you are shooting, I’m not sure the 50mm prime will be much use. It’s usually a nice way to get great portraits on the cheap, but I’m not sure you’d find yourself using it all that much 🙂
I hope this helps – I think you’ll be happy with your lens choice!
Laurence
Image Earth Travel says
Great write-up and comparisons – lots of food for thought!
I have to mention that I don’t totally agree with your view on the Nikkor 28-300mm f/3.5-5.6G VR lens. I’ve been using this lens on my Nikon D600 since 2013, but travelling full time since 2014. The lens diminishes my D600’s 24.3 MP to only 10P-MP. A testing link you may be interested to check out: https://www.dxomark.com/Lenses/Nikon/AF-S-NIKKOR-28-300mm-f-3.5-5.6-ED-VR-mounted-on-Nikon-D600__834
In addition, the distortion the lens creates when taking architectural images is much higher than my previous cheaper Canon EOS550D+Canon EF-S 55-250mm f/4-5.6 that I used on my 2011, 10-month trip. (Prior to these 2 models, I used a combination of film cameras and lenses.)
Overall, I’m disappointed with my decision to swap from Canon to Nikon – not only much more expensive, but not optimal for travelling as the camera+lens weighs around 3kgs.
I’m yet to discover the best travel camera+lens combination to handle candid and landscapes (including architecture) photography. I like the idea of just having one camera body+one lens – for me, it’s always going to be a zoom lens. So, I understand that the optics of the zoom will never be as good as a fixed lens and always a compromise, but for the money I spent back in 2013 on my Nikon kit I expected better quality. Only as good as the lens right? 😉
Laurence Norah says
Hey there!
So I am a little confused – this is an FX lens on an FX body, so there should be no reduction in megapixel and it should be able to use the full sensor frame. I don’t understand how it would cause the images to go down to 10MP – that would normally only happen if you used a DX lens on an FX body.
Lens distortions are always going to be an issue for sure, although they can be often fixed in Lightroom or other photo editing software. But yes, the greater the focal range of the lens in my experience, the lower the image quality and the greater the distortion. It’s just a reality unfortunately.
I think you might overall be better off with a different system entirely in weight is more important. Perhaps one of the mirrorless systems. There are many to choose from, especially if you don’t mind stepping down a bit in sensor size. Ultimately though, you are right, good glass is critical to great images – but it tends to come at a price (and weight!).
Saikat Sen says
Disappointed to see that you have not considered the Tamron 16-300 VC f/3.5-6.3, which according to my experience is a great walk around travel lens, weighing just about a pound, cheaper than any other lens you have mentioned here and providing 16mm at the wide end, which roughly equivalent to 24mm at the APS C sensor. Needless to say that it has full-time manual override, which is very useful to those who really like to use it manually with the library to get the auto focus as and when required.
Laurence Norah says
Hi Saikat!
Thanks for your comment, and I’m delighted you’ve found a lens that works for you. There are lots of great lenses out there! I think the 18-400 Tamron I recommend is a good option, but of course, if folks would prefer something a little lighter and don’t mind trading off a bit of focal length on the zoom end, then the 16-300 is a great option too 🙂
Laurence
Lucas Peters says
Hi Laurence,
Thank you for taking the time to put this article together. I’m sure it’s a ton of research. For the next one, really consider the Sony 24-105mm G OSS f/4. I’ve been using it for travel (England, Iceland, France, Spain and Morocco) over the last few months and am super happy. On a full-frame, you can crop to get an equivalent 150mm or so range for a nice little punch-in. Nice colors. Solid sharpness (though a tad softer at 105, but not too bad), an overall better performance than the SonyZeiss 24-70mm with a larger range. Check it out when you can.
Laurence Norah says
Hey Lucas!
Thanks for the input, that’s much appreciated. I will certainly take a look at that lens and consider including it 😀
Best
Laurence
Lucas Peters says
If you liked the Canon L 24-105, you’ll probably like this a lot.
Curious why you are adverse to small primes. I probably do the vast majority of my shooting with the Sony-Zeiss 35mm 2.8 (you can get them 2nd hand pretty consistently for 300-400 now, making it a great budget option). It’s an awesomely light weight walk around kit.
Laurence Norah says
I’m not adverse to them at all, I think they are awesome bits of kit. However, for this post the goal was picking lenses that the majority of folks would use without having to carry too many lenses, and whilst I love primes for their sharpness and speed, I think the majority of folks reading this guide are looking more for a one size fits all solution 🙂
Alicja Abela says
Hi,
I am a beginner photographer and am wanting to buy a Canon 80D for a trip to NZ in November. What lense/ lenses would you suggest for getting landscape shots but also wildlife? much appreciate your advice.
Alicja
Laurence Norah says
Hi Alicja!
So for landscapes I’d recommend a wide angle lens like the Canon EF-S 10-18mm. That’s a really good value lens, and the ultrawide angle will let you get some great landscapes. The logical lens to pair it with would be the Tamrom 18-400, which would be great for pretty much everything else, including portraits and wildlife. These are not super expensive lenses, which also makes them lighter for travel, but if you wanted to spend more for some reason, I can recommend more expensive lenses too of course!
Have an amazing time in New Zealand 🙂
Laurence
Alicja Abela says
Thank you for the recommendation. After looking at the pricing of both 80d and lenses I think I will have to look for a cheaper model such as a 200D.
Are there a couple of lenses that I could take that would do a good job on landscapes, action and wildlife that would add up to around $1000 Aus doll ars max?
Laurence Norah says
Hi Alicia!
So you could get away with just the Tamron lens, and not getting the wide angle. It will work for the majority of shots. Or you could get the Sigma 18-300 and the Canon 10-18, which should come in to $1000.
I am assuming the $1000 doesn’t include the camera purchase. If that is included then you will likely be best buying that body only, and then getting the Sigma 18-300.
I hope this helps!
Laurence
Alicja says
Thank you so much. That was so helpful!
Roddy says
You have the details wrong on the Lumix wide zoom, it is 8-18 not 8-14
Laurence Norah says
Good catch! Thanks very much, I’ve updated the post 🙂
Shan says
Hi..
Great article..!
I have Nikon D3400 camera with kit lens amd 35mm Nikon prime lens.
Normally i use 35mm lens when we go for family trip. Even if it is a good lens i miss many good shots since it is not wide enough. I am thinking about buying a wide angle lens for travel photography (weekend road trip with family 🙂 ). I considered Tamron 10-24mm VC and Nikon 10-20mm VR.
What is your suggestion on my situation ? Should i stick with my kit lens for travel or buy any other walk around lens like Nikon 18-300 or Tamron 18-400?
Laurence Norah says
Hey Shan,
Thanks! It’s hard to know exactly what to advise as I’m not sure if you are into wildlife photography or any other types of photography where you will be using the extra length of a longer zoom. So whilst the 18-300 or 18-400 or certainly good options, I think if your main issue is currently not being wide enough, and wide angle photography interests you more, then a 10-24 or 10-20 would be a better choice.
Another option is to try the 18-400 or 18-300 and see if it is wide enough for your needs. The difference between 10mm and 18mm is quite a lot, but you might find it suits what you want to do with, plus gives you a lot more flexibility and choice of focal lengths.
I hope this helps!
Laurence
Arijit says
Hi, Great article! I am planning to upgrade from 550D to an 80D, and was wondering about the lenses I could pair it up with. I have a canon 50mm f/1.8 STM prime which I love (and so does the rest of the world, it seems!). I ditched my 6 yrs old canon 18-55 IS II for a sigma 18-35 f/1.8. And on the telephoto end, I am aiming for the Tamron 100-400. Have read some good reviews about it, and its probably the lightest and most easy-to carry telephoto of that range (though not the best w.r.t. IQ, but would be a huge improvement over my notoriously soft canon 55-250 IS II). I shoot birds at times, and so need a good telephoto range. I am slightly worried about losing the mid range (50-100), but was analysing my pictures, and realised I don’t shoot very often in that range. Would love to hear your opinion as well.
Laurence Norah says
Hi Arjit!
So the good news as you no doubt already know is that the 550D and the 80D have the same sized sensor and mount, so all your lenses will just work across the cameras. I would say that you would be fine without the middle focal length. We usually travel with a 17-40 and a 70-200, and we’re usually shooting either very wide at 17mm or 100mm+, so don’t miss that middle range too much! It all depends on the kind of photography you do, and it sounds like you have a solid idea of what it is you want to shoot, as well as the focal ranges you use most regularly. So if that lens suits your budget and needs, I would say to go for it!
Enjoy 🙂
Laurence
julie anne says
hello
I just want to ask what camera lens is compatible with canon m50? thanks
Laurence Norah says
Hey Julie! Great question. So you have two main options – there’s a range of EF-M lenses made by Canon for the camera, which I haven’t included here as they are quite specific to the EOS M range. The other option is to get the adaptor which will let you use any EF-S or EF lens, which you can get here: https://amzn.to/2DV5fy5
In which case, the Canon lenses listed here, as well as various third party lenses from brands like Sigma and Tamron will work. Hope this helps!
Laurence
Caitlin says
Thank you so much for this informative post. I am starting out on my travel photography journey across the Middle East and was overwhelmed by where to begin with cameras. This was very helpful!
Laurence Norah says
My pleasure! Let us know if you have any questions 🙂
Ira Sockowitz says
Laurence, thanks for a very thoughtful and in-depth discussion of options for a wide range of shooters.
As an owner of two bodies, Canon 5D and 5D Mark II respectively, I already own some of the lenses you reference. As I am planning a 9-15 moth RTW trip, I have a couple of questions for you:
1. My everyday lens is the 24-70 f2.8L so covered there. If you are willing to bear the wight, should I carry my 70-200 f.28L? I think I see it in some of your photos and wonder of its uses – close ups of nice architecture as well as long landscape shots. If not, what lighter weight alternative do you use/recommend?
2. Should I consider a smaller, more pocket-sized or easily managed camera for urban travel? I note that you use a mirrorless and again ask about the utility of doing that versus carrying my larger DSLR everywhere.
Appreciate all that you and Jessica do to aide us travelers and look forward to your reply.
Laurence Norah says
Hi Ira. My pleasure, and thanks for your kind words.
So I normally travel with a 17-40 and a 70-200. So you could say I’m missing that classic middle ground, but I find the other two lenses cover enough to make up for it. If I was going on a round the world trip, I think I would lean more towards leaving the 70-200 at home. It is massively heavy, and unless there are really specific shots you want, you might find yourself doing fine with the 24-70. I would perhaps look at investing in a 2x extender instead and using that with your 24-70. It won’t be quite as amazing as the 70-200 in terms of sharpness and autofocus speed, but if you’re not shooting fast moving subjects, or planning on selling your photos to be printed on the side of buildings, I don’t think you’ll notice 🙂
We do travel with a Lumix GX8, which is a great camera. However, if I was to start over, I think I’d likely look at one of the larger sensor compact cameras for more casual use. These are really quite compact and portable, shoot in RAW, and have decent manual controls. The later Sony RX100 models, or the Panasonic Lumix TZ100 / TX200 would be my choice I think, purely so I can have a simple solution that doesn’t come with its own lens ecosystem to worry about!
I hope this helps, happy to expand more of course 🙂
Aaron says
Thanks so much for the very helpful article.
I’ve been using a T3i and the 18-200mm for years, and am upgrading for my latest trip. I just got the Canon 77D and am contemplating whether to get a new lens as well. Realistically, I usually only carry one lens since it is a pain to switch; the 18-200 has done a great job covering both landscapes and far off subjects, but lately I’ve been more aware when it isn’t crisp. Do you think it is worth it to go for something like an 18-55 (similar to the 24-70 full frame on an APS-C I think) or similar? I’m not sure how much better the image quality would be (obviously some with the smaller range, but unclear the degree of improvement).
Laurence Norah says
Hey Aaron,
First, I’d definitely ask if you need the extra range of something like the 18-200 – if you often find yourself at the more zoom end of the lens, then you will likely be unsatisfied with a shorter focal length.
Second, a newer camera body with a better sensor is definitely going to highlight the issues with your existing lens, so if you are noticing problems on the T3i with your existing lens, these will only be more apparent with a better body unfortunately. Of course, it also depends on what you are using your photos for – whilst images can look bad when we inspect them close up, if your shots are mostly for social media or relatively small images, you might not really notice, but for larger use, and especially for printing, you will likely want a higher quality lens.
Without an idea of your budget, its hard to give an exact recommendation, but generally higher quality means higher cost unfortunately!
One good option would be to rent a couple of the lenses you are looking into to see if you can really tell the difference, and go from there 🙂
Aaron says
On past trips I’ve definitely found myself using the range of the lens to take portraits of people from far away, and get far off statues etc., though the majority of my use is landscape and smaller zooms.
For now, my pictures are mostly just stored on my computer, but eventually I would like to print larger versions of them (though more likely in the 16×24 range, not huge). I’d like to keep expenditure <$1000 on the lens – I think the rental idea is a good one!
Rick Petersen says
My camera system and lenses are pretty set, but it was informative article. Like seeing others opinions on gear which is how I found this.
Currently shooting a Lumix GX8, with the Leica 12-60mm and Leica 25mm. Love this combo and concur with your recommendation of a standard zoom and fast prime.
Laurence Norah says
Thanks Rick! We also have the GX8, it’s a lovely camera, and we have it with the Lumix 12-35 f/2.8 which is a great walkaround travel lens too. Sounds like you have the perfect set up for travel, light and discreet 🙂 HAppy shooting!
Max says
After reading all that you still don’t come up with a good travel lens??????? Whats the point????
Laurence Norah says
Hey Max! The goal of the article is to help folk navigate the fairly overwhelming choice of travel lenses, with suggestions given for different camera systems and budgets. Most folks should have an idea of what their camera system is, and then what their budget is, and from that it should be easy to use this post to decide which is going to be the best lens for them 🙂
Thomas FISCHER says
Great great article.
I am wondering for MFT what do think about thoses lenses for travelling:
– 14-140 II F3.5
– lumix 7-14 F4
– lumix leica 15 mm F1.7
– lumix 42.5 F1/7
Laurence Norah says
Hi Thomas,
Thanks very much. I do love prime lenses because you get that lovely shallow depth of field effect, and they tend to be really sharp. I didn’t recommend any in my post because, well, I would have been writing forever, but with a micro four thirds system they make good sense because the whole system is smaller, so for travelling you can still have some prime lenses. I’d say your selection is ideal for travelling, with a focal range to cover pretty much everything from landscapes to animals, plus some nice lenses for portraits. So yes, I think you’ve picked some excellent choices!
Enjoy!
Laurence
Laurence Norah says
Hi Scott, and thanks for your comment. THe post is definitely new, although we do of course update old posts to ensure they are still relevant. In this case though that isn’t the case, I just missed that lens. I’ll take a look and see where it would fit, and thanks again for your input. Cheers, Laurence.