How to Use a DSLR in 2026 (And Should You Still Buy One?)

So you’ve got yourself a DSLR, or you’re thinking about buying one, and you want to know two things: how to actually use it, and whether a DSLR still makes sense in 2026. I can help with both. I’ve been shooting with SLR and DSLR cameras since 1993, starting with a film Canon my parents gave me as a teenager, and I’ve worked as a professional photographer since 2010.

A few years ago I made the switch myself, going from a Canon 6D to the mirrorless Canon R5 I shoot with today. I also teach an online photography course where I’ve helped over 2,000 students get more from their cameras. So I’ve got plenty of first-hand experience to draw on here, both with DSLRs and with the move to mirrorless.

Here’s the short version, so you have it up front. If you’re buying your first proper camera in 2026 and starting from scratch, I’d point you towards mirrorless. That’s where Canon, Nikon and Sony are putting all their new cameras, lenses and development. But if your budget is tight and you mostly shoot stills, a good used DSLR is one of the best value ways to learn photography there has ever been, because the used market is full of excellent bodies at a fraction of what they cost new. And if you already own a DSLR? Keep using it. There’s no rush to replace a camera that still takes great photos.

The reassuring part, whichever way you go, is that the skills are identical. The exposure triangle, composition, depth of field, reading the light: all of it works exactly the same on a DSLR as it does on a mirrorless camera. Learn on a cheap used DSLR now and not one thing you pick up is wasted when you upgrade later. So this guide does double duty. Below I’ll walk you through how to use a DSLR as a complete beginner, covering the key controls, the fundamental concepts, and the practical tips I wish someone had told me when I was starting out. And I’ll give you my camera recommendations for every budget along the way.

If you’ve actually got a mirrorless camera rather than a DSLR, head over to my dedicated guide to using a mirrorless camera, which covers the handful of differences that are specific to mirrorless systems. And if you’re working with a point and shoot, I’ve got a guide to using a compact camera too.

This guide assumes no prior knowledge of cameras or photography. If some of the concepts take a while to click, don’t worry. I’ve been doing this for over 30 years and I’m still learning. The important thing is to start.

 

Should You Still Buy a DSLR in 2026?

I get asked this question a lot, so let me give you a proper answer.

The camera world has changed enormously over the past few years. Canon, Nikon and Sony, the three biggest names, have all moved their development almost entirely to mirrorless. Canon’s last new DSLR was the EOS-1D X Mark III back in 2020, and its CEO has confirmed that was the company’s final flagship DSLR. Nikon discontinued its last flagship, the D6, in 2025. Sony walked away from its A-mount DSLR and SLT line all the way back in 2021. None of the three is developing new DSLR bodies any more, and all their new lenses are designed for mirrorless mounts (Canon’s RF, Nikon’s Z, Sony’s E).

The only major manufacturer still actively making new DSLRs is Pentax, owned by Ricoh, which has decided to keep going for as long as there are photographers who want them.

The numbers tell the same story. In its full-year 2025 figures, the industry body CIPA reported that manufacturers shipped around 6.3 million mirrorless cameras worldwide, against just 690,911 DSLRs, down from nearly a million the year before. Even compact cameras now outsell DSLRs by more than three to one. Mirrorless has won the volume war comfortably.

So what does all of that mean for you, a beginner, in 2026? Less than you might fear. A DSLR is still a brilliant tool for learning photography and taking great photos, and the death of new development doesn’t change that. What it does change is the buying decision, and that comes down to which situation you’re in. Let me lay out the differences plainly, then match them to four common situations.

 

DSLR vs Mirrorless: The Key Differences

Here’s how the two compare on the things that actually matter when you’re starting out.

Feature	DSLR	Mirrorless
Viewfinder	Optical. You see the scene directly through the lens, but with no live preview of your exposure.	Electronic. You see a live preview of exactly how bright or dark your photo will be before you press the shutter. Really helpful when you’re learning.
Autofocus	Good, but the technology is a generation behind.	More advanced, with reliable subject and eye tracking, especially for moving subjects.
Size and weight	Larger and heavier, because of the mirror box inside.	Smaller and lighter, which you notice after a full day of carrying one around.
Battery life	Longer. The optical viewfinder draws no power.	Shorter. The electronic viewfinder and rear screen use more battery, so carry a spare.
Video	Basic on entry-level bodies.	Strong, with good 4K on most current cameras.
New lenses and support	None. Canon, Nikon and Sony have stopped developing new DSLR lenses and bodies.	All current development. Every new lens and body is mirrorless.
Price, bought new	About the same as an entry mirrorless body now, not the bargain it used to be.	About the same as a new entry DSLR.
Best value	The used market. This is where a DSLR makes real financial sense.	Buying new, with a current warranty and the latest features.

 

Which Is Right for You? Four Common Situations

Most beginners I talk to fall into one of these four camps. Find the one that fits you.

Your situation	What I’d buy	Why
You’re on a tight budget and mostly shoot stills	A good used DSLR, like a Canon Rebel SL3 or Nikon D3500	The cheapest route into real photography. You get far more camera for your money on the used market, and everything you learn carries straight over if you upgrade to mirrorless later.
You want one camera to keep and grow into over the next five years or more	A new entry mirrorless, like the Canon EOS R10 or R100	This is where the lenses, accessories and support are all heading. A mirrorless body you buy today will still be well supported in five years. A new DSLR won’t get a successor or major updates.
You care about video or vlogging	A mirrorless camera (the Canon EOS R10, or the Sony ZV-E10 II for vlogging)	DSLR video is an afterthought at this price. Mirrorless cameras shoot far better 4K and focus far more reliably while you’re filming.
You already own a DSLR or a set of EF or F-mount lenses	Keep what you’ve got	Your camera still takes excellent photos and your lenses still hold their value. Put the money towards a better lens or a course instead of a new body.

I’ll go through each of these cameras in more detail next.

 

Which Camera Should You Buy?

Here are my current picks for beginners, whichever route you’re taking. I’ve owned and shot Canon gear since I was 13, so I do lean Canon, but I’ve used Nikon, Sony and Fujifilm bodies over the years and I’ll flag where another brand does something better. I’ve also got a detailed guide to the best travel cameras if you want to see a wider range of options across every type and budget.

 

Best Mirrorless Cameras for Beginners

If you’re buying new, I’d recommend starting with a mirrorless camera. Here are two options at different price points that I think offer the best value for beginners.

Canon EOS R10

The Canon EOS R10 is, in my opinion, the best all-round mirrorless camera for someone starting out in photography right now. It has a 24.2MP APS-C sensor, Canon’s excellent Dual Pixel CMOS AF II autofocus system with subject tracking, and it can shoot at up to 15 frames per second. The body is compact and lightweight, and Canon’s interface is about as intuitive as camera menus get.

If you’re coming from a smartphone and want something that feels approachable rather than intimidating, this is a very good place to start. It also shoots excellent 4K video if you’re interested in that. The RF-S 18-150mm kit lens option is particularly good value, as it covers a versatile zoom range.

Canon EOS R100

If budget is a bigger concern, the Canon EOS R100 is a solid entry point at a lower price. You give up a few features compared to the R10 (no flip-out screen, more basic autofocus, slower burst shooting), but the image quality from the 24.1MP sensor is very good, and it’s one of the most affordable ways to get into an interchangeable lens camera system with a future-proof mount.

I should note that I’ve been a Canon user since I was 13 years old, so I do have a natural bias here. But I’ve also tested cameras from Nikon, Sony and Fujifilm over the years, and I recommend Canon’s entry-level mirrorless cameras because I think their combination of image quality, usability and lens ecosystem is hard to beat for beginners.

If you prefer Nikon, the Nikon Z50 II is an excellent alternative with Nikon’s latest Expeed 7 processor and a very good electronic viewfinder. And if video is your priority, the Sony ZV-E10 II is worth a look, as it’s built with vloggers and video creators in mind.

 

Buying a Used DSLR

If you’ve decided a used DSLR is the smart buy for your budget, here’s how to do it well.

The big three brands no longer make new DSLRs, and that’s exactly why the used market is so good right now. Photographers upgrading to mirrorless have filled it with well-cared-for bodies and lenses at a fraction of what they cost new. You can typically pick up a capable used DSLR for somewhere between $150 and $450 depending on the model and condition, often with a kit lens included.

I’d steer you towards a proper used-camera retailer rather than a random marketplace listing. Companies like MPB, KEH and B&H Used inspect, grade and warranty everything they sell, so you know what condition you’re getting and you’ve got some comeback if something isn’t right. That’s worth a lot when you’re buying a camera you can’t physically inspect first. I’ve also got a full guide to where to buy used cameras and gear with more detail.

A few used DSLRs I’d happily recommend to a beginner today:

• The Canon EOS Rebel SL3 (sold as the EOS 250D outside North America) is small, light and one of the friendliest DSLRs Canon ever made for newcomers.
• The Nikon D3500 has been discontinued, but it’s a lovely first camera with outstanding battery life if you find one in good shape.
• The Canon EOS 90D and Nikon D7500 are a step up, aimed at enthusiasts, and you can often find them used for around the price of a new beginner camera. Either one will see you through years of learning.

 

Best New DSLR (Budget Option)

If you specifically want a brand-new DSLR rather than a used one, there’s really only one I’d point a beginner towards.

Canon EOS Rebel T7 (EOS 2000D)

Canon’s entry-level DSLR is still on sale new. It used to be the budget champion, noticeably cheaper than any mirrorless camera, but that gap has closed: a new Rebel T7 now costs about the same as an entry mirrorless body like the R100. So the case for buying one new is weaker than it once was. Where it still makes sense is if you want a brand-new DSLR with a warranty and access to Canon’s enormous EF lens ecosystem, including a huge used-lens market. You get a 24.1MP sensor, WiFi, and everything you need to learn the fundamentals.

Bear in mind that Canon and Nikon aren’t developing new DSLRs any more, so the T7 won’t get a successor or major firmware updates. For learning the fundamentals and taking great photos, that doesn’t matter at all. But for most beginners on a budget, I’d still take a used SL3 or D3500 over a new T7, because your money stretches further on the used market.

 

What is a DSLR Camera?

A digital single lens reflex, or DSLR camera, is a digital camera with an internal mirror and prism system. This system is used to direct the light from the lens up to the viewfinder that you look through to compose the image.

I appreciate this may sound a little opaque, so let me break it down a bit.

All digital cameras essentially work in the same way. First, light is collected and focused by a lens, and then captured on a digital sensor. The sensor saves that light information into an image file that you can view and edit.

The difference between a DSLR camera and the other cameras on the market today is that a DSLR has this mirror and prism system which is used to send light to the viewfinder.

If you take the lens off a DSLR and look inside the lens mount, you’ll see the mirror sitting at around a 45-degree angle. It’s just reflecting the light up towards the optical viewfinder.

When you press the shutter button, the mirror will flip up inside the camera, out of the way of the sensor. Then the light will pass onto the sensor to record the image. This is why, when you take a photo with a DSLR camera, the viewfinder goes dark when you press the shutter button. The mirror is no longer reflecting the light, and so the viewfinder goes dark.

There are some other differences between a DSLR camera and the other types of camera available, which are covered in more detail in my post on DSLR cameras.

I’ll also add here that DSLR cameras largely replaced SLR cameras with the advent of digital sensors. The key difference is that they have a digital sensor inside rather than a roll of film. However, the prism and mirror system is still a key part of the design.

 

DSLR Camera Controls: A Guide

When you first take your new DSLR camera out of its box, you are going to notice that it has a lot of buttons and dials. And these can be overwhelming. Which is likely why so many people I teach photography to confess that they just leave their camera in Auto and hope for the best.

For the most part, on a modern DSLR camera, Auto mode will actually do a pretty decent job in 80% of situations.

However, this also means that there are going to be times (let’s say 20%) that you aren’t going to get the shot you want if you leave everything up to the camera.

Because of this, learning how to use your camera to its fullest potential, and taking full control, should definitely be your end goal.

Don’t worry if this takes you some time, or if you don’t understand everything at once. As I’ve already said in this post, photography is complicated and learning how a camera works is a process that takes time and practice.

A good start is reading a post like this, but do also consult your manual for your camera model. If your camera didn’t come with a manual, you can usually find relevant information by searching online for “your camera model manual”.

Here’s an overview of the key controls on your DSLR Camera. Note that different camera models will have slightly different controls, but the majority will have the following options.

 

Mode Dial

The mode dial is the first dial you’ll want to locate. This is the dial that tells the camera how much control you want over its various settings. To change the mode, you just rotate the dial.

Most mode dials have a wide variety of options, which will include an “Auto” mode, for full automatic, and an “M” mode, for full manual.

They will also often include a variety of scenery modes, which are automatic modes where you give the camera a clue as to what sort of scene you are shooting, say a landscape or a portrait.

In between the Automatic and Manual modes there will also usually be a number of other modes which bridge the gap between fully automatic and fully manual, and it is these modes, particularly the last two, that I suggest you become familiar with and start to use. These are as follows.

• “P” mode. This is the Program Automatic mode. It is basically just another automatic mode, albeit one where you have control over some settings, including exposure compensation, ISO and white balance. I would generally advise skipping over “P” and moving straight to one of the two modes below instead, “A” or “S”.
• “A” or “Av” mode. This is the Aperture Priority mode. This mode and the mode below are the half way house between full automatic and full manual. Aperture priority mode means that you set the aperture (useful for controlling depth of field) and the camera will judge the light in the scene and set the shutter speed to get the correct exposure. You can also control ISO, exposure compensation and white balance. As a landscape photographer, this is my go-to mode for 90% of my photos.
• “S”, “T” or “Tv” mode. This is known as Shutter Priority Mode. Shutter priority is similar to aperture priority mode, except you set the shutter speed, and then the camera sets the aperture based on the light in the scene. Shutter priority is good for when you want to control movement in a shot, such as for isolating the flight of a fast moving bird, or to show movement in a long exposure shot.

Some photographers will tell you that you have to shoot in manual mode to have full control over your photos. Personally I disagree with this. The main thing is to understand what the different modes are, and what effect the different settings in your camera have on your shot.

As long as you are comfortable with this, and you understand how changing aperture, shutter speed and ISO can affect your shot, that is the key.

If you are unclear on how these three elements, known together as the exposure triangle, work together in photography, we have a detailed guide to the exposure triangle to help you out.

I also suggest reading my guide to depth of field in photography, which explains this in more detail. You may also consider signing up to my online photography course, which covers the exposure triangle and much more in great detail.

Once you understand the relationship between aperture, shutter speed, and ISO, the choice of whether to shoot in manual, shutter priority, or aperture priority is up to you. It will likely come down to personal preference, and the scene you are shooting. There is no “right” option.

As a rule of thumb, I find aperture priority works well for most of my photography because it lets me control depth of field, which is a key compositional technique.

For portraits and landscape work, this is usually more important to me than controlling motion, except when I am doing landscapes where I want to capture movement.

For any scene involving movement, such as action photography, shutter priority often is the most useful mode. This lets me control whether I freeze the subject with a fast shutter speed, or show a bit of movement with a slower shutter speed.

When a scene has particularly challenging lighting, or depth of field and movement are both key considerations for the composition, then I will shoot in manual. This is often the case for scenarios like fireworks photography, photos of the Northern Lights or any long exposure photography.

 

Exposure Compensation (+/-)

Nearly every camera out there, including smartphones, will have some form of exposure compensation feature. This lets you quickly make the image brighter or darker by either increasing or decreasing the exposure compensation.

The exposure compensation will either be a dedicated button or dial on the camera, or will be easily accessible through the camera’s menu system.

As an explanation for the name, when you take a photo, the process that camera goes through is actually known as an exposure. The sensor inside the camera is “exposed” to the light. This is a throwback to the days of film photography, when exposing the chemicals in the film to the light caused it to react.

Today, the sensor just records the information electronically, but the term exposure has stuck.

Whatever mode your camera is in, it will always judge the light in the scene. It uses this to calculate correct settings so as to get an image that is neither too bright nor too dark, known as a correctly exposed image.

If your camera is in automatic mode, all of this is done for you.

On a DSLR camera, in Program Auto, Aperture Priority and Shutter Priority modes, you can override these settings with exposure compensation.

As an example, if you have your camera in aperture priority and set an aperture of f/8, the camera will calculate the exposure in the scene and set the shutter speed to give what it thinks is a good exposure.

Sometimes however the camera will get it wrong, and the image will be too dark or too light. You can use exposure compensation to basically tell the camera to increase or decrease the amount of light. As you have fixed the aperture, the camera will adjust the shutter speed accordingly.

Exposure compensation is a quick and handy way to adjust the overall brightness of an image without having to go into full manual mode.

 

Control Wheel for Shutter and Aperture

If you are shooting in aperture priority or shutter priority, you will need a way to change the aperture or shutter speed.

Nearly every camera has a control wheel, which you rotate to increase or decrease these settings. If you are in aperture priority mode, the control wheel will increase and decrease the aperture setting.

If you are in shutter priority mode, the same wheel will increase and decrease the shutter speed.

If you are in manual, then you will need to be able to adjust both the shutter speed and the aperture. Different cameras handle this differently. Some have two wheels, and some offer a button that you depress to switch what you are changing.

Consult your camera manual to see how to change aperture and shutter speed in manual mode.

 

ISO Button

ISO is the third control you have over the exposure of an image. Increasing the ISO makes the camera’s sensor more sensitive to the light, and reducing it reduces the sensitivity to the light.

If you are in manual mode and set the aperture and the shutter speed and then change the ISO, you will notice the image getting brighter and darker.

However, increasing the ISO also makes the image more grainy, as the increased sensitivity of the sensor means that digital “noise” is added to the image.

As a result, ISO is usually the last thing we want to increase. Ideally, ISO will stay at a range between ISO 100 and ISO 400, a range in which most cameras produce nice clean images.

However, sometimes it is just too dark to produce acceptable images without increasing the ISO. For this reason, most cameras will have a dedicated ISO button, which provides a shortcut for quickly increasing and decreasing the ISO.

It is really important to remember to check the ISO before you take any image. If you set it to a high value manually, the camera will remember that value until you change it.

I have spoken with travellers who have ruined a whole trip’s worth of photos because they set their ISO to a high value for an evening, and then forgot to put it back down to a lower value for the daytime.

It’s really hard to see the resulting noise on the back of the camera screen. It’s only when you get home and look at your images that you will notice the graininess in all your images.

 

Focus Mode

Focus is the process of ensuring the subject we are taking a picture of is sharp. An out of focus image will produce a blurry result that is not ideal.

To help with focus, DSLR cameras have a range of focus modes. Which you use will depend on what you are taking a photo of.

The first option that the camera is likely to be set is the standard autofocus mode. In this mode, the camera will default to focusing on what it thinks the subject is. You can take control of this by specifying the region of the image you want the camera to focus on by changing the image focal point.

This will either be with a dedicated button on the camera, or perhaps by using a touchscreen interface to touch the focus point.

If your subject is moving, then the camera has a different focus mode, which might be called continuous autofocus. It is called continuous because the camera will continue to adjust the focus as the subject moves, rather than just getting focus once.

Finally, the camera will also let you control the focus yourself manually. In this mode, you will have to adjust the focus ring, which is normally found on the camera’s lens. It will be a ring all the way around the lens which you can rotate to change the focus.

 

Metering Mode

I have mentioned throughout the post that your camera evaluates the light in the scene you are taking a picture of in order to calculate the correct exposure. This process, where the camera meters the light to come up with the correct exposure, is known as metering.

You can change the metering mode of your camera, depending on the scene you are taking a photo of, to help ensure your subject is correctly exposed.

The main control you have is over how much of the scene is used for the metering. The default mode, which will work for most photos, is known as evaluative metering on Canon cameras and matrix metering on Nikon cameras.

This mode looks at the light across nearly the whole frame of your image, to produce a balanced exposure. This will cover nearly all your photography requirements.

Sometimes however, we are shooting a scene with challenging lighting, like a dark building against a bright sky. In this case, the default metering mode might give you an image which is technically well balanced, but the building will likely be too dark to be usable.

To resolve this, you could use exposure compensation, or you could change the metering mode.

Different cameras have different metering modes you can choose. The most common is a spot metering mode or a partial metering mode, which means that the camera will just use the centre part of the scene to do its exposure calculation.

This means that bright sections of the image around the edges away from the middle will not impact the final shot, and in our example, the building would end up correctly exposed.

 

Focus Ring

The last two controls on your DSLR camera that we’re going to talk about are on the camera’s lens. The first one is the focus ring, which we briefly touched upon.

If your camera is in manual focus mode, the focus ring is what you will use to achieve focus. On some cameras, even if the camera is set to autofocus, you can override that with the manual focus ring as well.

 

Focal Length Ring

The focal length ring is also on the camera’s lens, and is found on any lens that has a variable focal length. In basic terms, this is the camera’s zoom. Changing the focal length changes the zoom, and rotating the focal length ring is what you do to change the zoom.

 

How to Use a DSLR Camera: A Beginner’s Guide

I’m now going to cover some tips and tricks for using your DSLR, and some areas you should focus on to improve your photography.

 

1. Learn How to Hold a DSLR Camera Properly

The first thing you are going to need to do is learn how to hold your new DSLR camera properly. It’s really important to try and minimise camera movement when taking photos, as this will translate directly into blurry images.

Most DSLR cameras are relatively heavy, and should always be held with two hands. This will stabilise the camera a great deal more than if you just try to operate it one handed.

If you are right handed, the correct way to hold the camera is with your right hand around the hand grip and one of your fingers over the shutter button. I prefer to use my index finger for the shutter button. Try to ensure the rest of your fingers are tightly gripping the camera’s grip, if they all fit.

Your other hand should be holding the camera’s lens from underneath to support it.

Ideally, you will have your elbows tucked in tight to your body which will provide additional stability.

If you struggle with maintaining stability when holding a camera, consider investing in a travel tripod to provide the necessary stability that your camera needs for sharp photos.

 

2. Get the Horizon Level

This is a personal bugbear. I find photos where the horizon isn’t level to be quite off putting!

Sure, this is something that you can fix in editing software, but rotating an image can degrade the quality. So ideally you want to try and get the horizon level whilst you shoot.

Most cameras will have the option to overlay a grid on the screen, or markers inside the optical viewfinder that can help with this, but ultimately it just takes practice to get this right.

 

3. Understand the Exposure Triangle

I’ve talked about the exposure triangle a number of times already in this post, and that’s because it’s one of the most important photography concepts to understand if you want to take control over your camera.

It can also be a fairly challenging concept that takes time to understand, because it includes three different variables, all of which also change how the final image looks.

The Exposure Triangle is called the exposure triangle because it refers to the three things you can change, all three of which affect the exposure of the image.

The three things you can adjust to change the exposure of the image are the aperture, the shutter speed and the ISO.

The aperture is a hole inside the lens which lets light through. You can make this hole bigger or smaller, to let more or less light through.

The shutter is like a curtain inside the camera that whisks aside to let light onto the sensor. Changing the shutter speed changes the length of time the shutter is open. A longer time lets more light through, a shorter time lets less light through.

As you will see from the above two controls, they are both related to how much light is hitting the sensor.

The third control you have over exposure, and the third “side” of the exposure triangle, is the ISO setting. ISO controls how sensitive the sensor in your DSLR is to that incoming light.

If you increase the ISO, you increase the sensitivity, and vice versa.

You might wonder why you need three different settings to essentially control the same thing, the exposure.

Well, the answer is that these three settings also control how the final image will look. Aperture and shutter speed in particular are important compositional tools, whilst ISO contributes to how noisy the image is.

More specifically, aperture controls depth of field, and shutter speed controls how movement is portrayed in a shot. These will be covered in the below tips in a bit more detail so you can see when and why you might want to change any of them.

You can also read more about the exposure triangle in my detailed guide to the exposure triangle here.

 

4. Master the Rules of Composition

I am of the belief that there are three main areas of photography that you need to master to get great photos.

The first of these is understanding your camera, which will let you be sure you can set your camera up properly to get great images. This post is primarily focusing on this area of photography.

The second thing you need to understand is composition, which is the art of placing your subjects within the image and using elements of the world to create a visually pleasing image.

Composition includes things like the rule of thirds, use of colour, leading lines and framing. As you would imagine though, such a major topic requires more than a few sentences to properly cover, and as such I’ve written a full guide to photography composition which you should check out.

Finally, the third thing I think everyone should master is photo editing, which is how you get the most from the photos you’ve captured with your DSLR. As a starter with that, I recommend checking out my guide to the best photo editing software which will give you some pointers as to what options are on the market for photo editing.

 

5. Learn about Depth of Field

As I discussed in my section on the exposure triangle, aperture controls depth of field. So you might be wondering what this is.

Well, if you’ve ever seen a portrait shot, where the subject is clearly in focus, and everything else in the shot is nicely blurred away, then you have seen an example of a shallow depth of field.

Depth of field basically refers to how much of the image is in focus in front of and behind the subject, relative to the camera.

For landscapes, you usually want the majority of the image in focus, so you would want a deep depth of field. For portraits, you want the opposite, so you would want a shallow depth of field.

Changing the aperture changes the depth of field. For more on this, see my guide to depth of field in photography, which covers this subject in much more depth.

 

6. Consider Movement

Movement can be a powerful compositional technique, and this is controlled by shutter speed, another part of the exposure triangle.

When you want to freeze motion in an image, say that of a hummingbird flapping its wings, or a fast moving vehicle, you will want to use a fast shutter speed. Fast in this context might be anything from 1/500th of a second and higher.

On the other hand, if you want to show motion in your images, perhaps the movement of water, or give the impression of movement by blurring a person who is moving, you would use a slower shutter speed. In this case, slow would generally be anything from 1/15th of a second and slower.

For more on using shutter speeds to control how your image looks, take a look at my guide to long exposure photography, which covers this subject in more detail.

Hopefully now you can see how aperture and shutter speed affect your final image differently, and see why it’s so important from a composition point of view to understand how to change these yourself rather than leaving it up to the camera!

 

7. Use the Light

Photography is all about light. The photos you capture are basically that, the light in the world, reflecting off surfaces, and being recorded by the sensor in your camera.

So as you would imagine, understanding how best to use light will help you with your photography no end.

First, you need to appreciate that the position and angle of the light relative to your shot will make a big difference. An overhead light will create flatter images, whilst a low light will create more visually pleasing images with depth.

This is why shooting at the start and end of the day is generally preferred. The light at these times of day is also a nice yellow tone, which we refer to as being warm. This also makes for more pleasing images.

As a general rule, it’s also best to shoot away from your light source rather than towards it. Shooting away from the light means your subjects will be correctly illuminated rather than in shadow.

 

8. Practice, Practice, Practice

I think I have already mentioned this in the post a few times, but just to reiterate, photography is a skill that takes time to master.

Until you start putting concepts like those I outline in this post into actual practice, they won’t really stick or make as much sense. I urge you to grab your camera and start playing with the different settings I’ve talked about in this post.

Get an idea of how changing different things changes the image. Learn how to read the shutter speed, aperture and ISO readouts that your camera overlays in the viewfinder. Play with exposure compensation.

It can be a good idea to set yourself challenges, and to get into the habit of taking your camera with you when you leave the house so you can get some practice in.

I definitely can’t emphasise this enough. Practice makes perfect with every skill, and photography is no different.

 

How to Care for and Protect your New DSLR

Now you have your DSLR Camera, you will want it to last for a good long while. And with these tips, it will.

 

How to Protect your DSLR

A DSLR is a fairly robust piece of equipment, but it is still a piece of electronics with a number of glass components, and as such, it does need to be looked after.

The two accessories I suggest you buy for your DSLR are a lens hood, also known as a sun hood, and a clear UV filter.

These will both protect the lens on your DSLR. This is the bit that protrudes the most, and is the part of your camera that is most susceptible to damage from every day knocks and bumps.

UV filters are relatively inexpensive (around $15 to $40 a piece), as are sun hoods. You just have to get them at the right size for your lens. This should be clearly marked in the item description.

For filters, every filter has a mm rating, which will match the lens’s filter thread diameter. For example, most of my lenses have a 77mm filter thread, so I use 77mm filters like this.

You can see a collection of UV filters here and lens hoods here.

 

How to Clean your DSLR

Over time, a DSLR will naturally pick up dirt and dust from the environment. I find the two things that come in useful for cleaning it are an air blower like this, and micro fibre cloths like this.

These are also available as an inexpensive cleaning kit which contains a number of items for cleaning your camera that you might find useful.

I don’t do any internal cleaning of my camera other than occasionally blowing air to remove dust specks from the sensor. See my section below on DSLR camera servicing for more thorough cleaning options.

 

Tips for Travelling with a DSLR

If you are going to be travelling with your DSLR then I highly recommend buying a well designed camera bag. Camera bags come with a lot of additional padding that you don’t get in ordinary bags, and they also usually have compartments for your different pieces of equipment, including lenses, spare memory cards, batteries and so on.

You can also get camera bags that are designed to also carry other items, with part of the bag designed for camera equipment, and the other part for travel items like clothing.

I use and travel with Vanguard bags, who make a wide range of camera related products, including tripods, bags and other accessories. I’ve been a Vanguard ambassador for a number of years and their gear has always been reliable and well made.

They have a wide range of bag options, including this trolley bag, this backpack and this sling bag. I suggest picking a bag that fits your gear plus a bit more, so you have plenty of room.

 

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As Vanguard Ambassadors we are able to offer you a unique discount code which will get you 20% off everything in the Vanguard USA, Vanguard UK, Vanguard Spain, and Vanguard Germany online store websites. Just use code FindingTheUniverse (case sensitive) on checkout.

You should always try and keep your camera equipment with you when travelling rather than checking it into hold luggage so you can keep an eye on it and ensure it is handled properly.

 

Should you Service Your DSLR?

The short answer is yes. From time to time, I would suggest getting your DSLR camera and lenses properly serviced by a qualified technician.

I aim to get my cameras serviced around once a year, and usually I find a Canon certified dealer to do it for me. I’ve also been lucky to attend some Canon sponsored events like the Albuquerque Balloon Fiesta, where free servicing was offered.

A service will usually involve a thorough clean of the sensor and a careful inspection of any other elements of the hardware. I can definitely recommend trying to get this done on a fairly regular basis to keep your camera in good working order.

 

Frequently Asked Questions

 

Is a DSLR still worth buying in 2026?

It depends on your situation. If you already own a DSLR, it is still well worth using. Your camera has not stopped being capable just because newer technology exists.

If you are buying your first camera, a mirrorless camera is generally a better investment in 2026, because that is where all the new development, lenses and support are going. However, if budget is tight, a DSLR (especially second-hand) can give you a lot of camera for very little money.

I have more detail on this in the DSLR vs Mirrorless section of this guide.

 

Should a beginner buy a DSLR or a mirrorless camera in 2026?

For most beginners starting from scratch, I would recommend a mirrorless camera, because that is where the lenses, accessories and long-term support are all heading.

The big exception is budget. If money is tight and you mainly shoot stills, a used DSLR is one of the best value ways to learn photography, and the skills you build transfer directly to mirrorless if you upgrade later.

If you already own a DSLR, there is no need to switch at all.

 

Is it worth buying a second-hand DSLR?

Yes, for a beginner on a budget it can be a smart move. Because Canon, Nikon and Sony have stopped making new DSLRs, the used market is full of capable bodies and lenses at low prices, typically between $150 and $450 depending on the model and condition.

I would buy from a proper used-camera retailer such as MPB, KEH or B&H Used, where cameras are inspected, graded and come with a warranty. Good options for a beginner include the Canon EOS Rebel SL3, Nikon D3500, Canon EOS 90D and Nikon D7500.

 

Are camera companies still making DSLRs?

Mostly no. Canon, Nikon and Sony have all stopped developing new DSLR cameras and now focus entirely on mirrorless. Canon’s last flagship DSLR was the EOS-1D X Mark III, and Nikon discontinued its D6 in 2025.

The one exception is Pentax, owned by Ricoh, which is still actively making new DSLRs. For the big three brands, though, the DSLRs already on sale are the last of their kind, and the future is mirrorless.

 

What is the best DSLR camera for a beginner?

For a new DSLR, the Canon EOS Rebel T7 (known as the EOS 2000D outside North America) is the most accessible option and offers everything a beginner needs. If you are open to second-hand, the Canon EOS 90D and the Nikon D7500 are both excellent intermediate options that you can often find at entry-level prices on the used market.

 

Can I use a DSLR guide to learn about mirrorless cameras?

Yes. The fundamental concepts of photography, including aperture, shutter speed, ISO, composition, depth of field and metering, work the same way regardless of camera type. The main differences between a DSLR and a mirrorless camera are mechanical (mirror vs no mirror, optical viewfinder vs electronic viewfinder), not conceptual. If you learn photography on a DSLR, those skills transfer directly to mirrorless.

 

What mode should a beginner shoot in?

I recommend starting in Aperture Priority mode (marked as “A” or “Av” on your mode dial). This lets you control the aperture, which determines depth of field, while the camera handles the shutter speed automatically. It is the mode I use for about 90% of my own photography. Once you are comfortable with that, you can experiment with Shutter Priority mode for moving subjects, and eventually Manual mode when you want full control.

 

Do I need to shoot in Manual mode to take good photos?

No. This is one of the most common misconceptions in photography. Aperture Priority and Shutter Priority modes are professional tools, not training wheels. I use Aperture Priority for the vast majority of my professional work. The important thing is understanding what your settings do and why, not which mode you happen to be in. I explain the different modes and when to use each one earlier in this post.

 

What is the exposure triangle?

The exposure triangle refers to the three camera settings that control how bright or dark your image is: aperture, shutter speed, and ISO. These three settings are interconnected, so changing one affects the others. Each also has a secondary effect on your image. Aperture controls depth of field (how much of the image is in focus), shutter speed controls how movement appears (frozen or blurred), and ISO affects how much digital noise appears in the image. I cover this in detail in the guide above, and I also have a dedicated guide to the exposure triangle.

 

How long does it take to learn photography?

This varies enormously from person to person, but I would say most people can get comfortable with the basics (understanding exposure, shooting in something other than Auto mode, getting consistently decent photos) within a few weeks of regular practice. Getting really good takes much longer. I have been at it for over 30 years and I still learn new things. The most important thing is to take your camera out and practice. Reading guides like this one is a great start, but there is no substitute for actually shooting.

 

Further Reading

If you have recently picked up a DSLR camera, or are thinking of buying a new DSLR camera, then you are likely near the beginning of your photography journey. Well, I’m here to help on that journey. I’ve written a number of photography guides which I think you will find useful to help improve your photography.

These cover a wide range of topics, from beginner content through to intermediate and more advanced concepts. Here’s a selection to get you started.

• We have similar guides for how to use a mirrorless camera and how to use a compact camera.
• If you’re interested in learning more about how a DSLR works, see our DSLR camera guide.
• Knowing how to compose a great photo is a key photography skill. See our guide to composition in photography for lots of tips on this subject
• Once you’ve mastered aperture, you can control depth of field. Read more about what depth of field is and when you would want to use it.
• If you have a lens with a zoom feature, you can take advantage of something called lens compression to make objects seem closer together than they are.
• We are big fans of getting the most out of your digital photo files, and to do that you will need to shoot in RAW. See our guide to RAW in photography to understand what RAW is, and why you should switch to RAW as soon as you can.
• You’re going to need some way of editing your photos. See our guide to the best photo editing software, as well as our guide to the best laptops for photo editing. We also have a guide to getting the best performance out of Adobe Lightroom, our preferred editing software.
• If you’re looking for advice on specific tips for different scenarios, we also have you covered. See our guide to Northern Lights photography, long exposure photography, and fireworks photography.
• Tips for taking photos of stars, and cold weather photography.
• You may hear photographers talking about a concept called back button focus. If you’ve ever wondered what that is, and want to know how to start using it, see our guide to back button focus.
• For landscape photography, you might find you need filters to achieve the look you want. See our guide to ND filters for more on that.
• If you’re looking for a great gift for a photography loving friend or family member (or yourself!), take a look at our photography gift guide.
• If you’re in the market for a new camera, we have a detailed guide to the best travel cameras, as well as specific guides for the best cameras for hiking and backpacking, the best compact camera, best mirrorless camera and best DSLR camera. We also have a guide to the best camera lenses.
• We have a guide to why you need a tripod, and a guide to choosing a travel tripod.
• Ever wondered how to easily replace the sky in an image? Check out our guide to sky replacement in photography for an easy process anyone can do.

 

Looking to Improve Your Photography?

If you found this post helpful, and you want to improve your photography overall, you might want to check out my online travel photography course.

Since launching the course in 2016, I’ve already helped over 2,000 students learn how to take better photos. The course covers pretty much everything you need to know, from the basics of how a camera works, through to composition, light, and photo editing.

It also covers more advanced topics, including astrophotography, long exposure photography, flash photography and HDR photography.

You get feedback from me as you progress, access to webinars, interviews and videos, as well as exclusive membership of a Facebook group where you can get feedback on your work and take part in regular challenges.

It’s available for an amazing one-off price for lifetime access, and I think you should check it out. Which you can do by clicking here.

And that’s it for our detailed guide to getting the most out of your new DSLR. As always, we’re happy to take feedback and answer your questions. Just pop them in the comments below and we’ll get back to you as soon as we can.