Things to Do on the Black Isle, Near Inverness, Scotland

If you’re driving the North Coast 500 or visiting Inverness (known as the capital of the Scottish Highlands), one thing you should add to your list is a trip to the Black Isle. Found about a ten minute drive from Inverness, this large peninsula has plenty to entertain you, and we’re going to highlight our favourite things to do on the Black Isle in today’s post.

Despite the name, the Black Isle is neither an island nor black. The colour in the name originates from the fact that it was once covered in dark, dense woodland, whilst the “isle” is because it is sandwiched between two large bodies of water, so access in times gone past would have been almost like visiting an island.

 

The Black Isle in Brief

The Black Isle is a peninsula just north of Inverness that packs a lot into a small area: dolphin watching at Chanonry Point, a couple of breweries and a whisky distillery, several small museums, and a fairy glen with waterfalls. Most people visit as a day trip from Inverness, and one day is enough to see the highlights.

Here’s the quick version:

• The first attractions are a 15 to 20 minute drive north of Inverness, which makes this one of the easiest day trips in the Highlands.
• Bring a car if you can. Stagecoach buses reach the main towns, but the sights are spread out across the peninsula.
• A single day covers the highlights without rushing. An overnight stay lets you slow down and time the dolphins around the tide.
• Dolphins are best in spring and summer. From late May to September, pack midge repellent.

If you’re driving the North Coast 500, the Black Isle is the natural first stop as you leave Inverness, so it’s worth building a half-day into your route for it.

 

What to Do on the Black Isle

We’ve arranged some of our favourite sights and activities on the Black Isle into a logical order to help you plan your day around visiting them. But since everything is fairly close together, you can rearrange them as makes the most sense for you. As you’ll see, there’s a lot to do on the Black Isle!

 

1. Robertsons the Larder

If you think you might have a picnic on the Black Isle, or are just looking for some tasty locally sourced food products, then you should pop by Robertsons the Larder on your way from Inverness.

This family run farm shop and children’s farm carries a wide range of delicious Scottish products, which are guaranteed to tempt you. They have everything from black pudding to smoked salmon to ice cream, and are the perfect stop to pack a picnic for the rest of your day.

They also have a pair of gorgeous Highland Coos on site, which make for an excellent photo opportunity.

 

2. Black Isle Brewery

Started in 1998, the Black Isle Brewery has become one of Britain’s better known organic breweries, and ships its beer all over the world.

The brewery runs tours and workshops at its organic farm near Munlochy, so you can see how the beer is made. Book ahead through their website, as tours depend on staff being available. There’s also a shop on site selling their organic beers and merchandise.

Either way, their beer is well worth seeking out, with options to suit most palates. We particularly enjoyed the Oatmeal Stout, which has a lovely dark colour and an almost chocolatey flavour.

 

3. The Clootie Well

Not too far from the Black Isle Brewery is the Clootie Well, which I have to admit, looks a bit like a scene from a movie like the Blair Witch Project.

In Celtic history, a Clootie Well was a place of pilgrimage for those seeking healing. They would normally be found at a water source like a spring, which would have a tree growing nearby. Pilgrims would come to the well, dip a rag into it, rub the rag onto the affected part of their body, and then tie the rag onto the tree whilst offering some sort of prayer.

The theory would be that as the rag disintegrated over time, so too would the ailment. This particular Clootie Well, which is found near Munlochy, was said to be particularly good for healing children, who would often be left here overnight to heal.

Today the Clootie Well on the Black Isle is still a popular place to visit, and the trees surrounding the well are covered in rags and other items, including teddy bears and other offerings, some of which have writings on. It’s a short (five-minute) walk from the car park here through the rag tied trees to the well itself, and it’s a curious, slightly eerie spot to visit.

 

4. Fortrose Cathedral

Moving along the south coast of the Black Isle and we now come to Fortrose Cathedral in the town of Fortrose. This was once the seat of the bishops of this area, although what survives today is a magnificent red sandstone ruin, mostly dating from the 14th century.

Despite being a ruin, the cathedral is still an impressive place to visit. It’s right in the centre of Fortrose, surrounded by greenery, and a number of details survive including some of the stone vaulting. It’s also free to visit.

 

5. Dolphin Watching at Chanonry Point

A short drive or a twenty minute walk from Fortrose Cathedral will bring you to Chanonry Point. This promontory is home to a pretty lighthouse and offers spectacular views up and down the Moray Firth, including across to Fort George, one of the UK’s most impressive military fortresses.

However, the real treat at Chanonry Point is the opportunity it offers for dolphin watching. As the tide starts to rise (check tide times here), a pod of bottlenose dolphins can often be seen unaided from the beach. They’re here to take advantage of the optimal feeding conditions that the rising tide creates, and they often come very close to the shingle beach.

There is parking at the end of the point by the lighthouse, and at the right time of day it’s not hard to find the optimal point to watch the dolphins as there will usually be a fair number of people gathered. Just follow the path from the car park to the shingle beach, or at lower tide you can walk along the beach.

Note there’s a small charge to park here during the day, and the car park is tiny and fills up fast. It’s only suitable for cars too, with no room to park or turn a campervan or caravan, so if you are in a longer vehicle you’ll have to park in Fortrose and then walk out to the point.

The best time of year to see the dolphins is in spring or summer, when they are hunting migrating salmon, although there is the chance to see them year round. In the warmer months there’s also often an ice cream van here, so even if you don’t see dolphins, you can at least get an ice cream!

 

6. Golf at Rosemarkie

If you love golf, then you’ll want to make a stop at the Fortrose and Rosemarkie Golf Club. The club describes its links as the 15th oldest recorded golf course in the world, and it has been in operation since 1793. Its location out towards Chanonry Point makes for a memorable round of golf, with views down the Moray Firth.

It’s definitely one of the more popular courses in Scotland, and is open to visitors to play. You just need to book in advance via their website, and of course, to have golfing experience. The course is described as fast, and has tight fairways and bunkers galore.

 

7. Groam House Museum

In the town of Rosemarkie is the Groam House Museum, home to an outstanding collection of Pictish carved stones.

Spread over two floors, and with free entry, here you can learn all about the history of these stones, which are over a thousand years old. The museum is also home to an exhibit from local artist George Bain, as well as a history of the people of this part of the Black Isle. Well worth a visit.

 

8. Fairy Glen Waterfalls

At the north end of the town of Rosemarkie is the parking area for the Fairy Glen trail. This is around a thirty minute round trip walk along a pretty stream, which brings you to the beautiful Fairy Glen itself.

Here there are two gorgeous waterfalls which are wonderfully photogenic, and definitely worth the small effort it takes to reach them. Definitely one for a tripod and set of neutral density filters if you’re into photography!

 

9. Cromarty Brewing Company

Whilst the Black Isle Brewery is the best known brewery in this part of the world, it’s not the only game in town. Not far from the town of Cromarty is Cromarty Brewing Company, which has been making beer on the Black Isle since 2011.

Cromarty Brewing isn’t running brewery tours at the moment, but the on-site shop is open, so you can still pop in to pick up fresh beer and merchandise straight from the brewery. Hours are seasonal and tend to be weekday and Saturday mornings, so it’s worth checking their website before you make the trip.

 

10. Cromarty Lighthouse

On to the town of Cromarty now, which sits at the tip of the Black Isle. In the warmer months, roughly April to September, you can take a small ferry from here across to Nigg, which saves you the drive back to the main road.

We’re not done with exploring the Black Isle though. The town of Cromarty has a number of attractions, first of which is the Cromarty Lighthouse. This was first lit in 1846, and operated as a lighthouse until 2006. Today it’s part of the University of Aberdeen, and operates as a field station, supporting research within their School of Biological Sciences.

You can’t get into the Lighthouse, but it is still worth taking a look at the building and the nearby harbour area, which is pretty.

 

11. Hugh Miller’s Birthplace Cottage and Museum

One of Cromarty’s most famous inhabitants was Hugh Miller. Born in Cromarty in 1802, he became known as a geologist, writer and palaeontologist, as well as for his religious beliefs, which conflicted strongly with his scientific discoveries.

Today, his collection of over 6,000 fossils is a big part of the National Museum of Scotland’s collection in Edinburgh, and he is considered to be one of the finest Scottish palaeontologists. The thatched cottage where he was born in Cromarty can today be visited, as can the property next door where he also lived.

Here you can learn about his life and work, as well as see the cottage, which has been restored to how it would have looked when he was there. The Hugh Miller Birthplace Cottage and Museum is operated by the National Trust for Scotland. It’s open seasonally, roughly from April to October, and admission is £7 for adults, with free entry for National Trust for Scotland members.

Fans of Hugh Miller will also want to take a short walk up behind the museum to the old Cromarty graveyard, where as well as a lovely ruined old church there is a large statue to Hugh Miller.

 

12. Cromarty Courthouse Museum

Right next door to the Hugh Miller Birthplace Cottage and Museum is the Cromarty Courthouse Museum. This volunteer run community museum is set in the old courthouse, which dates from 1773.

Inside, you’ll find permanent exhibitions about the town and surrounding areas. The museum also hosts special exhibitions and displays through the year, which feature interesting stories from history as well as local artists. You’ll also find that the courtroom has been set up to re-enact a courtroom scene, and features life-like figures and accompanying audio to tell the story.

Entry is by a £4.50 adult season pass, which is free for under-16s and for Cromarty and Resolis parish residents, and once you’ve paid you can come back as often as you like through the season. It’s open Wednesday to Saturday afternoons through the summer, with extra events held across the rest of the year. Check the official website before visiting, as opening times vary.

 

13. Wildlife Boat Tours

From Cromarty you can take a wildlife watching adventure out into the Moray Firth, where you can see all sorts of wildlife, including the resident colony of Bottlenose Dolphins.

EcoVentures is the small, family run tour operator that operates out of Cromarty, and they run a two hour wildlife watching tour. Booking in advance is highly recommended as the boat only takes up to 12 people.

 

14. Kirkmichael

About a ten minute drive west of Cromarty along the north coast of the Black Isle is Kirkmichael. This medieval church had fallen into serious disrepair, but thanks to the efforts of the Kirkmichael Trust, it has been fully restored and made safe for visitors.

Today the old church is fully open and has been turned into a very small museum displaying some of the most interesting old medieval gravestones found in the Kirkyard. It’s a peaceful and interesting place to visit.

 

15. Glen Ord Distillery

We’re going to finish off our tour of the Black Isle with a visit to the Glen Ord distillery. This is the last surviving single malt scotch whisky distillery on the Black Isle, and dates from 1838. It’s quite an operation, with the capacity to produce well over ten million litres of spirit a year, making it one of the larger malt distilleries in Scotland.

As well as producing its own single malt, the distillery makes whisky for Diageo’s blended brands, including Johnnie Walker.

You can take a tour of the distillery, which runs year-round. It’s worth booking ahead through the distillery website rather than just turning up, as tours can sell out and dates are released around 90 days in advance. Most tours end with a tasting. Note that under-8s aren’t admitted.

 

Map of Black Isle Attractions

Here’s a handy map of the Black Isle attractions to help you plan your day. You can see this map on Google here.

 

Best Time to Visit the Black Isle

The Black Isle is worth a visit at any time of year, but a few things are worth knowing before you pick your dates.

For most people the dolphins are the deciding factor. The bottlenose dolphins at Chanonry Point are around all year, but your best chance of seeing them is between roughly May and September, when they follow migrating salmon into the Moray Firth. Time of day matters more than the calendar, though. The dolphins tend to come in close on a rising tide, often an hour or two after low tide, so it’s worth checking the tide times and planning your visit around them. We’ve stood on the Chanonry shingle and watched them pass within a few metres of the beach when the timing lined up.

Wildlife doesn’t stop in winter. From autumn through to spring, the RSPB reserve at Udale Bay, on the north side of the peninsula, fills with thousands of wintering wildfowl and waders, including big flocks of wigeon. If you’re visiting the Black Isle in the colder months, it’s a good reason to bring binoculars.

One thing to plan for between late May and September is midges. They’re at their worst on still, overcast days near water, exactly the conditions you might find at the Fairy Glen or along the shore. They won’t ruin a trip, but they can take the shine off standing still for a photograph. We always travel with Smidge, which is the most effective midge repellent we’ve found in Scotland.

Daylight swings a lot this far north. In midsummer it stays light until past 10pm, which gives you a long, unhurried day. In midwinter the light is gone by mid-afternoon, so you’ll want an earlier start and a shorter list of stops.

If you’re combining the Black Isle with the North Coast 500, late spring and early autumn are the sweet spot. May, June and September are quieter on the road than the July and August peak, the weather is often kind, and you’ll have an easier time parking at popular spots like Chanonry Point.

 

How to Get to the Black Isle

The Black Isle is just north of Inverness, so is very easy to get to if you have a car, being less than a twenty minute drive from the city centre to the first attractions.

If you don’t have a car, there are also bus services, which are primarily operated by Stagecoach. These will let you access many of the major attractions on the Black Isle. See timetables here.

As far as we’re aware, there aren’t any companies running guided day tours dedicated to the Black Isle itself, so you’ll get the most out of it under your own steam. If you’d rather travel with a guide, Rabbie’s, one of our favourite small-group tour companies in Scotland, runs plenty of day trips from Inverness into the wider Highlands.

 

Where to Stay on the Black Isle

With the Black Isle being so close to Inverness, it’s easy to base yourself in the city and visit the Black Isle as a day trip from Inverness. If you wish to do that, check out Inverness hotel listings on booking.com here.

If you would like to stay on the Black Isle, we can recommend either Home Farm Bed and Breakfast or The Factor’s House, both of which are well rated by visitors. The latter in particular is a favourite of ours, we loved the warm welcome, comfortable rooms and delicious breakfast (the hardest part is choosing what to have!).

Alternatively, if you would like to camp, there’s a large campsite near Chanonry Point, the Fortrose Bay Campsite, which has lots of pitches.

We’ve also written a detailed guide to the best accommodation options on the North Coast 500, several of which are within a short drive of the Black Isle, so do check that out as well.

 

Frequently Asked Questions About the Black Isle

 

Where is the Black Isle and how do you get there?

The Black Isle is a peninsula on the east coast of the Scottish Highlands, immediately north of Inverness across the Moray and Beauly Firths. By car it’s only a 15 to 20 minute drive from Inverness city centre to the first attractions.

If you don’t drive, Stagecoach runs bus services from Inverness to the main Black Isle towns, including Fortrose, Rosemarkie and Cromarty. The buses are reliable, but the attractions are spread out across the peninsula, so a car gives you much more flexibility for a day of sightseeing.

 

Can you visit the Black Isle without a car?

Yes, though it takes a bit more planning. Stagecoach buses connect Inverness with the main towns on the Black Isle, so you can reach places like Fortrose, Rosemarkie, Chanonry Point and Cromarty on public transport.

What you lose without a car is the ability to link up the more scattered sights, such as Robertsons the Larder, the Clootie Well and Glen Ord distillery, in a single day. If you’re relying on buses, pick two or three places in the same area and build your day around the timetable.

 

When is the best time to see the dolphins at Chanonry Point?

Chanonry Point is one of the best places in the UK to see bottlenose dolphins from land. They’re present all year, but spring and summer, roughly May to September, give you the best odds, as the dolphins follow migrating salmon into the Moray Firth.

The tide matters more than the time of day. The dolphins usually come in close on a rising tide, often an hour or two after low tide, so check the tide times and plan around them. Arrive early in peak season, because the small car park at the point fills up quickly.

 

How long do you need on the Black Isle?

One day is enough to see the highlights of the Black Isle at a relaxed pace, including the dolphins, a brewery or distillery, and a couple of the small museums.

If you’d rather slow down, or you want to time your dolphin watching around a particular tide, staying overnight on the peninsula makes the day far less rushed. Two days lets you add the quieter corners without watching the clock.

 

What is the best time of year to visit the Black Isle?

Late spring and summer are the most popular, with the best dolphin watching, long daylight hours and the widest choice of things open. The trade-off is midges between late May and September, so pack repellent.

Autumn and winter are quieter and still rewarding, with wintering wildfowl gathering at Udale Bay and far fewer crowds, which is a real bonus if you’re driving the North Coast 500. Just plan for short daylight hours and check seasonal opening times before you travel, as some attractions close or reduce their hours outside the summer.

 

Is the Black Isle worth visiting?

Yes. The Black Isle is an easy and rewarding day out, especially if you’re already in Inverness or starting a North Coast 500 trip. Few places let you watch wild dolphins from a beach, tour a distillery and a brewery, and explore a thousand years of history all within a short drive.

It’s also less busy than Scotland’s better known attractions, which is part of the appeal. If you have a spare day near Inverness, it’s well worth it.

 

Further Reading

Hopefully this post contains everything you need to know to help you plan out what to do on the Black Isle. We’ve also written a lot of other content about travelling in Scotland and the UK, plus we have some other resources we would like to recommend to help you even more. These are:

• If you’re staying in Inverness, the Black Isle is one of many great day trips you can take. See our guide to some of our favourite day trips from Inverness for more inspiration.
• We also have a guide to things to do in Inverness, where you’ll find lots of sights and attractions
• We have a complete guide to Loch Ness, one of the most popular attractions in Scotland, which is just a short distance from the Black Isle
• We also have guides to day trips from other Scottish cities, including the best day trips from Edinburgh, best day trips from Aberdeen, and best day trips from Glasgow.
• The Black Isle is one of the first stops you’ll come to if you’re driving the North Coast 500 counter-clockwise from Inverness. Check out our detailed guide to the North Coast 500, as well as my photography highlights on the North Coast 500 for some inspiration for your trip.
• If you’d like an itinerary for the North Coast 500, check out our detailed 7 Day North Coast 500 itinerary as well as our slightly shorter 5 day North Coast 500 itinerary
• If you head the other way from Inverness, you can take in the North East 250 driving route. See our NE250 itinerary for some ideas
• If you’re driving in the UK for the first time, check out my tips for driving in the UK for some advice
• Looking for more inspiration for Scotland? Check out our 2 day Edinburgh itinerary, Glasgow and Loch Lomond itinerary and our itinerary for Skye and the Highlands to get you started.
• We also have a guide to things to do on Islay if you’re looking for more island inspiration
• For wider UK trip planning, we have suggested one week and two week UK itineraries as a starter, plus lots more UK content to help you plan your trip.
• If you’d like a guidebook for your time visiting Scotland, we recommend the Rick Steves Scotland guide

And that’s it for our guide to what to do on the Black Isle! If you’ve got any feedback or questions, just let us know in the comments below.