The Best Safari Camera, Lenses and Photography Accessories, Plus How to Choose

Probably the biggest decision you’ll have to make before going on safari is what camera equipment to take with you. This is a big decision, and it’s important to get it right before you go.

When you are on safari, you’re going to see people taking photos on everything from their smartphones through to super high end professional equipment with gigantic lenses.

Choosing a camera is a personal decision where you have to weigh various factors including budget, ease of use, size, and the type of pictures you want to get.

I’ve been a professional photographer for many years, and I also teach travel photography online. I’ve also been lucky enough to spend time on safari photographing animals in a number of countries around the world.

Based on my experiences, I’ve learnt a lot about what sort of camera works best for safari, and what to consider when choosing a camera for a safari.

In this post, I’m going to share everything you need to know about how to choose a camera setup that’s right for you and your safari. I’m also going to recommend some cameras and lenses across a range of budgets and styles.

I recommend reading this post along with my guide to getting great photos on safari, so you’re fully prepared for your trip.

 

Safari Camera Comparison Table

If you’re short on time, here’s a quick overview of all the cameras I recommend for safari. You can scroll down for detailed write-ups of each one, or use this table to narrow down your options based on budget, camera type and features.

Camera	Type	Sensor	Zoom / Focal Length	Burst (fps)	Weather Sealed	Weight (body)	Price Range	Best For
Panasonic FZ80D	Bridge	1/2.3″	20-1200mm (60x)	10	No	640g	$	Best budget option
Canon SX740	Compact	1/2.3″	24-960mm (40x)	10	No	299g	$	Pocketable zoom
Canon SX70 HS	Bridge	1/2.3″	21-1365mm (65x)	10	No	610g	$	Lightweight bridge
Canon EOS R50	Mirrorless	APS-C	Interchangeable	15	No	375g	$$	Entry mirrorless
Nikon P950	Bridge	1/2.3″	24-2000mm (83x)	7	No	1005g	$$	Maximum zoom
Nikon Z50 II	Mirrorless	APS-C	Interchangeable	30	Partial	550g	$$	Entry Nikon mirrorless
Panasonic FZ1000 II	Bridge	1″	25-400mm (16x)	10	No	810g	$$	Best image quality bridge
OM System OM-1 Mark II	Mirrorless	MFT	Interchangeable	50 (AF-C)	Yes (IP53)	511g	$$$	Lightweight + weather sealed
Samsung S26 Ultra / iPhone 17 Pro	Smartphone	Small	Limited optical zoom	N/A	Yes	N/A	Varies	Already own one
Sony RX100 VII	Compact	1″	24-200mm (8x)	20	No	302g	$$$	Premium compact
Sony A6700	Mirrorless	APS-C	Interchangeable	11	Yes	493g	$$$	Compact APS-C mirrorless
Canon EOS R7	Mirrorless	APS-C	Interchangeable	30	Yes	612g	$$$	Best APS-C for safari
Sony RX10 IV	Bridge	1″	24-600mm (25x)	24	Yes	1095g	$$$	Best bridge camera
Sony A7C II	Mirrorless	Full Frame	Interchangeable	10	Yes	514g	$$$$	Compact full frame
Canon EOS R6 III	Mirrorless	Full Frame	Interchangeable	40	Yes	699g	$$$$	Best all-rounder
Sony a7 V	Mirrorless	Full Frame	Interchangeable	30	Yes	~690g	$$$$	Best Sony full frame
Nikon Z6 III	Mirrorless	Full Frame	Interchangeable	20	Yes	~760g	$$$$	Best Nikon for safari
Canon EOS R5 II / R5	Mirrorless	Full Frame	Interchangeable	20 / 30	Yes	738g	$$$$+	Top pick (my camera)

 

Quick Recommendations

If you want to skip the detail and just need a starting point, here are my personal picks across categories:

• Best Safari Camera Under $500: Panasonic Lumix DC-FZ80D
• Best Safari Camera Under $1000: Nikon Z50 II or Canon EOS R50
• Best Safari Camera Under $3000: Canon EOS R6 III
• Best Safari Camera Overall: Canon EOS R5 II (or the original R5 at a lower price)
• Best Smartphone for Safari: Samsung Galaxy S26 Ultra / iPhone 17 Pro
• Best Compact Camera for Safari: Sony RX100 VII
• Best Bridge Camera for Safari: Sony DSC-RX10 IV
• Best Mirrorless Camera for Safari: Canon EOS R5 II
• Best Lightweight System for Safari: OM System OM-1 Mark II

Now I’ll explain how to choose the right camera for your situation, followed by detailed write-ups of each recommendation.

 

What to Look for In a Camera for Safari

Before I recommend specific cameras and lenses, I wanted to share the things that are important to look for when choosing a camera for safari. This information will help you to make a fully informed decision, rather than just picking something off a list.

We’re going to assume you are looking for a new camera for your trip, but for those who already own a camera, this can help you decide whether or not your current camera equipment will be able to give you the photos you want on your trip.

Price

Before you even start to think about what kind of camera you want and the features it has, you are going to have to decide on your budget. This will make a big impact on the camera you end up getting, and it’s important to set a realistic budget from the outset so you can then find something suitable that meets your budget.

Obviously, budget will vary for everyone. Don’t forget that your budget should not just include the camera itself. If you are buying a camera where you can change the lens, then you will want to include a lens in the purchase, and these can be just as expensive as the camera body.

You will also likely need accessories like a camera bag, camera strap, memory card, and spare batteries as well.

In general, the following price estimates in USD should give you an idea of what you can get for your money:

• $200 – $800: an entry level camera which will help you capture great memories of your trip
• $800 – $2500: a mid-range camera that will be capable of getting great photos in the majority of situations
• $2500+: moving into high end territory. As you start to spend over this amount you are looking at more professional oriented cameras which will capture amazing images in a wide range of lighting conditions if you put the time into learning how to use them properly.

As you can see, there’s a wide range of price points, and you can easily spend a great deal of money on camera equipment. But you can also spend less and still get great results.

 

Type of Camera for Safari

Once you have set a budget, you have to decide on the sort of camera you want to actually take with you on safari.

You have four main options for choosing a camera for safari. These are a smartphone, a compact camera, a bridge camera, or an interchangeable lens camera (mirrorless or DSLR).

Each of these options has advantages and disadvantages, and I’ll quickly go over each option now.

Smartphone. A smartphone is a good option if you really don’t want to carry any extra equipment and are happy to just get some images to remember your trip. They are generally easy to use and the latest models include some level of optical zoom. However, you will struggle to get great shots of any wildlife further away than several yards, and images taken when there is less light will likely be quite grainy.

Compact camera. A compact camera is a good compromise between a smartphone and a bigger setup. They are very portable and lightweight, but models are still available with good optical zooms. They are also easy to use, hence are often also called point-and-shoot cameras. Some models do include more manual modes and advanced features for those who want more control. The main downsides are reduced image quality compared to a larger setup, and they don’t perform so well in low light.

Bridge camera. One of the more popular options for safari is a bridge camera, also sometimes known as a superzoom camera. Bridge cameras are larger than compact cameras and they tend to have big zoom lenses that can capture far away subjects. Like with compact cameras, you can’t change the lens. They tend to offer a good balance between image quality, zoom, weight, usability, and affordability.

Mirrorless camera. If you want the best results in terms of image quality, then a mirrorless camera is the option to go for. These have larger sensors so can capture more light than other camera types, meaning you get better results in lower light conditions. These cameras also let you change the lens, so you can pick a lens or lenses which suit your budget and needs. They also have far more manual controls than the other options in the list, so you have more control over how your images look. The downside is that they are larger and heavier, take more time to master, and are usually more expensive.

In terms of which type of camera body to choose, there is no correct answer from the above.

Your decision will depend on your budget, how big a camera you want to carry, and how much time you want to spend learning how to use it. Below are different images from a number of different cameras to show you what is possible.

A quick note on DSLR cameras. These are pretty much end of life for most manufacturers now, as they have moved on to mirrorless cameras. Mirrorless cameras offer the same image quality as a DSLR in a smaller body.

These days I would recommend a mirrorless camera over a DSLR as they offer much improved features and usability in a lighter format. The choice of camera bodies and lenses is also sufficient that there is no reason to purchase a DSLR over a mirrorless.

 

 

 

Sensor Size for a Safari Camera

The sensor is one of the most important components inside your camera. The sensor is the digital equivalent of a piece of film. It is what records the light and saves it as a digital file.

Unlike a roll of film, which came in a fixed size for most cameras, a digital sensor can be as big or small as the camera manufacturer wants. Smaller sensors are found in smaller cameras like smartphones and compact cameras, whilst bigger sensors are found in mirrorless (and DSLR) cameras.

The size of the sensor affects a few things. First, it affects the actual size of the camera and lens. A larger sensor needs a bigger camera body to house it, and a bigger lens to capture the light. A smaller sensor will fit into a smaller camera body.

Larger sensors are also capable of capturing more light, in much the same way that if you leave a large bucket out in a rainstorm it will catch more water than a small bucket over the same period of time.

This means a larger sensor will normally perform better when there is less light available, and it will produce less noisy images. You can also use faster shutter speeds.

Larger sensors are however more expensive to produce and as a result tend to be found in higher-end and more expensive cameras.

Common sensor sizes you’ll come across are listed below in order of size from smaller to larger. However, you should be aware that there are a lot of variations, especially in the ultra-competitive smartphone market.

• 1/2.3″ – 5.76mm x 4.29mm (25mm²). Found in smartphones, as well as some compact cameras and bridge cameras. The sensor sizes around this point vary a little but this is around the average.
• 1-inch sensor – 13.2 x 8.8mm (116mm²). Found in high-end compact cameras and high-end bridge cameras. The 1″ name is a marketing term which has nothing to do with the size of the sensor.
• Micro Four Thirds – 17.3mm x 13mm (225mm²). Found in cameras from OM System (formerly Olympus) and Panasonic. The 2x crop factor means a 100-400mm lens gives an equivalent field of view to 200-800mm on a full frame camera, which is a real advantage for wildlife.
• APS-C Canon – 22.4mm x 14.8mm (329mm²). Found in most consumer-oriented Canon mirrorless cameras like the R7 and R50.
• APS-C Nikon, Sony, Fuji – 23.6mm x 15.7mm (370mm²). Found in most consumer oriented mirrorless cameras from other manufacturers like Nikon, Sony, and Fuji. Nikon calls these DX sensors.
• Full Frame – 36mm x 24mm (864mm²). Found in high end professional mirrorless cameras from Sony, Canon, Nikon etc. So called because it is roughly the same size as a piece of 35mm film.

The important thing to compare is the surface area in square millimetres. This shows the comparative size of each sensor. A full frame sensor for example has more than double the surface area of an APS-C sensor, and over 30x the surface area of a smartphone or compact camera sensor.

That leads to big differences in real world performance.

Generally, the larger the sensor, the better photos you will be able to get. This will be most obvious in lower light situations.

Ideally, for the best photos, you would want an APS-C or full frame sensor for safari as this will gather the most amount of light and be useful in more situations.

However, the trade-off is that these cameras tend to be more expensive and larger in size. So I’d recommend getting the largest sensor that fits with your budget and preferred camera size.

 

Focal Length / Optical Zoom for Safari

A really important specification to think about when picking a camera or lens for safari is the focal length of the lens. This is also often referred to as the “zoom”. The focal length is particularly important if you want to photograph birds, smaller animals and more distant wildlife.

A bigger zoom lens will let you get clearer images of more distant as well as smaller wildlife like birds or small animals.

For zoom, you will often see the terms optical zoom and digital zoom. The key specification is optical zoom.

Digital zoom is effectively the same as cropping an image after you have taken it, so has no real use as you could do this yourself with an editing application.

Optical zoom involves moving the optical elements in the camera to actually magnify the image.

For choosing a zoom amount for safari, if you’re picking a camera which has a built-in lens like a compact camera or a bridge camera, then you would want at least a 10x optical zoom. But I’d recommend a 16x optical zoom or larger.

If you’re in the market for one of these cameras, remember that the optical zoom number is just a marketing number. It refers to the underlying focal length, which is the more accurate way of comparing magnification across lenses. Let me quickly cover that for clarity as it can be confusing.

All lenses have what is known as a focal length, which is measured in millimetres (mm). If the mm number is small, say 20mm, then it’s a wide-angle lens, so will get a lot of the scene in the frame. If the number is bigger than 50mm, then it’s a telephoto lens, meaning it magnifies the image.

Here are a couple of examples of the same scene at two different focal lengths so you can see the difference. These are uncropped images.

 

As you can see from the images above, the 400mm focal length obviously lets you get much closer to the subject. You could crop down the top shot to a similar result, but it would be much less sharp and more grainy as a result.

When a camera has a zoom lens, it means that you can change the focal length, to make the image appear bigger (zooming in) and smaller (zooming out). The optical zoom number refers to the difference between the smallest and largest focal length number.

For example, if you have a camera like the Sony RX10 IV, this has a 24mm – 600mm equivalent focal length. 600 divided by 24 is 25, so this camera has a 25x optical zoom.

If you had a mirrorless camera with a 150mm – 600mm lens, this is technically just a 4x optical zoom because 600 divided by 150 is 4x. However, both the Sony and the mirrorless camera would give the same result in terms of framing when zoomed all the way in.

The difference is that the Sony would also let you take wide angle shots. However, if you compare a 4x number with a 25x number, the Sony sounds much more impressive! This is why it’s important to understand the underlying numbers, so you can get past the marketing.

In general, for wildlife photography on safari you want a camera with a lens which will let you zoom between 70mm and 400mm. This range will work well for most wildlife photography scenarios, and especially on safari as you normally can’t get out of the vehicle or leave the road, so are restricted by how close you can get to the animals.

Now there are also ultra-telephoto or superzoom lenses out there that start at 400mm and can go up to 1200mm. These lenses are going to be too large and too expensive for most people, but may be of interest to ardent wildlife photographers with big budgets, particularly those interested in bird photography.

Although your main focus is likely going to be photographing animals and birds while on safari, chances are that you are also going to want a camera that you can use to take photos of landscapes, buildings, food, people, etc. as well.

So you may want a camera that can also take wide angle shots (around 20mm). That might be a versatile zoom lens on your existing camera, a separate wide-angle lens, or you might consider using a different camera such as your smartphone for wide angle shots.

 

Aperture for Safari

As well as focal length, every lens has a specification known as an aperture. The aperture is the hole inside the lens which the light passes through. It’s a bit like the pupil in your eye.

Like the pupil in your eye, the aperture can get bigger and smaller to let more or less light through.

Every lens has an aperture, and the main specification to look out for is how big this aperture will go. Aperture is measured in f/stops, with a smaller number meaning the hole is bigger.

For example, an f/2.8 aperture lens features a bigger hole than an f/5.6 aperture lens.

Generally, the larger the aperture the more desirable. A larger aperture hole lets more light through, meaning you can use a higher shutter speed or a lower ISO, both of which can be of benefit.

You may notice when looking at cameras or lenses that the aperture is shown as a range, for example f/3.5 – 5.6. What this means is that the maximum aperture changes as you change the focal length. At the widest angle, the maximum aperture will be f/3.5. At full zoom, it will be f/5.6.

This is particularly common on compact cameras and bridge cameras with very big zoom lenses, as well as less expensive lenses. This means that the more you zoom in, the less light will be hitting the sensor and so you’ll need to use a faster shutter speed or higher ISO value to compensate.

The more expensive high-end standalone lenses for mirrorless cameras may feature a fixed aperture throughout the focal length. These also tend to be the biggest and heaviest lenses.

For safari, the larger the aperture (and smaller the f/stop number) the better, although of course you will have to budget this against weight and cost. In an ideal world, you’d want a lens with a maximum aperture of f/2.8 or f/4 for safari, but this isn’t always practical when cost and weight are taken into account.

 

Ease of Use and Learning Curve

Cameras are not created equally for ease of use. A smartphone camera for example tends to be very easy to use, in that you press a button and it takes a photo. They also come with a lot of clever technology, known as computational photography, which tries to get the best results for every image you take. This is also likely a device you are very familiar with and use regularly.

However, other types of cameras are going to have a steeper learning curve, especially mirrorless cameras. Of course, a mirrorless camera will also have an automatic mode which works in the same way as a compact camera or smartphone, in that you can press a button and take a photo, although they are normally missing the computational photography element.

This is why smartphone camera images can look better than shots from a mirrorless camera, especially when taken by a novice user.

The good news is that you can get amazing results with a high-end camera if you take the time to learn what all the buttons and dials actually do, as then you’ll be able to make the camera do what you want it to do. But this does require an investment of time and practice.

The decision you have to make is how much time you want to spend learning how to use your camera. If you really would prefer a more point and shoot experience, then a smartphone, compact camera or bridge camera is probably the best option. You will of course still get better results if you learn its various features, but it should still get good results with its out of the box settings.

On the other hand, if you would like to spend some time really learning how your camera works, then a mirrorless camera is a good option. This will have a wide range of shooting modes, including fully manual options, giving you total control over the end result.

If you are planning to get a new camera and want some help in using it and improving your photography there are a lot of books, workshops, and classes out there. For instance, I run an online travel photography course that is designed to help anyone improve their photography.

 

Megapixel Count

Every camera sensor has a megapixel count, usually in the range of 12MP through to 50MP+.

The higher the number, the more pixels the camera sensor will record when saving your image. A megapixel just means 1 million pixels, and would refer to an image 1000 pixels wide and 1000 pixels high. 1000 times 1000 is a million, hence megapixel.

More megapixels means the final image will be bigger in terms of image width and height. The advantage of this is that it can let you crop your images more without losing detail.

The disadvantage is that image files are bigger, and higher megapixel images can be slightly grainier.

I would not worry too much about megapixel count unless you plan to do a lot of photography of smaller subjects like birds from a further away distance or plan to print a lot of your images at a larger size. In these cases a high megapixel count (30MP+) will let you crop the shot more and still get a good result.

Otherwise, for smartphones anything over 12MP is good, and for other cameras anything over 20MP will be enough for safari. You can also get away with a lower megapixel count if the camera has a very big zoom, as this negates the need for cropping after the shot.

 

Image Stabilisation

When you are taking photos and holding the camera in your hand, any movement in your hand can translate into motion blur in your images. This will result in images that aren’t sharp.

This impacts images taken with slower shutter speeds, such as when you are shooting in low light. It’s also more apparent when using longer zooms, which can exaggerate hand movements. This is similar to the effect you get when looking through binoculars or a telescope: even small movements translate to the image being blurry to look at.

Cameras with image stabilisation can compensate for this up to a point, meaning your images will be sharper. Image stabilisation can be built in to either the camera body or the lens (or both), and I’d suggest picking both a camera body and lens with image stabilisation for the best results.

Just be aware that image stabilisation can only do so much, it’s not a fix all for image sharpness! So be sure to try to stabilise your camera as well as you can before taking photos, and use an appropriate shutter speed for the focal length you are shooting at.

 

Weather Sealing

A safari can be a very dusty place, and cameras tend not to like dust too much. If you are going to a tropical part of the world or visiting a country during its wet season, you are also likely to encounter rain and moisture. Some cameras on the market, particularly the more expensive models, offer weather sealing.

A weather sealed camera normally has various features to prevent ingress of moisture into the camera, such as rubber protection on the lens mounts and memory card slots. This helps prevent water getting into the camera in a rain shower, but also helps to prevent dust getting into the camera.

Dust inside the camera can have a variety of negative effects, from creating unseemly spots on your images if it lands on the sensor, through to causing it to not work at all.

If you have a camera which offers some level of weather sealing, this can protect against both water and dust, meaning you have one less thing to worry about. Ideally, you will want a camera with weather sealing for safari photography, although this is not a feature which is available on all cameras.

I will say that weather sealing isn’t everything. I’ve used cameras without it on safari (with a bit of care) and had no problems. A camera rain cover and a good camera bag will go a long way towards protecting your gear even if it doesn’t have weather sealing built in.

 

Autofocus System

Taking photos of moving wildlife can be challenging, especially for getting and keeping focus. Getting a camera which has a good autofocus system is key.

Modern autofocus systems can automatically identify and track things like animals and their eyes, so all you have to worry about is keeping the subject in the frame.

When looking at a camera for safari photography, check to see what features the autofocus system has. You are specifically looking to see how fast it can focus (faster is better), and if it offers any kind of subject detection or eye tracking. This will make getting sharp photos a lot easier.

This is one area where there has been enormous progress in recent years. The autofocus systems in the latest mirrorless cameras from Canon, Sony and Nikon are extraordinarily good at locking onto animals and tracking them across the frame. It’s one of the biggest reasons I’d recommend a mirrorless camera over a DSLR for anyone buying new.

 

Burst Speed

The burst speed of a camera refers to how many photos it can take in a second. A high-end camera will be able to take between 12 and 40 images per second. A mid-range camera will be able to do around 4 – 12 images per second.

A higher burst speed means you’ll be more likely to capture specific moments, especially of faster action like a bird in flight or an animal running.

In addition, because burst speed is directly related to the overall technical capabilities of the camera, a camera with a higher burst speed will be better specified than a camera with a low burst speed.

For safari, a camera that can shoot at least five frames per second is a good idea, but higher is always better.

 

Weight

A factor you might also want to consider when choosing a camera for safari is the weight of the system. Whilst a lot of safaris take place in a vehicle, where weight may be less of an issue, there are situations where weight will be an issue.

For example, there are some locations where you can do guided ranger walks, which will require you to carry your gear. Similarly, if you are doing a tracking experience, such as gorilla trekking or chimpanzee trekking, that will also often require you to carry your gear.

In addition, if you are planning on using planes to get around when at your destination, you should be aware that domestic flights to safari parks tend to operate on fairly small planes which can have strict weight limits. So you will want to be sure that your gear meets these requirements.

Generally, a smartphone, compact camera or bridge camera will be fairly lightweight. Larger mirrorless camera systems, especially those with full-frame sensors and large telephoto lenses, can weigh a lot more.

 

The Two-Body Approach

A question I get asked a lot (especially in the comments below) is whether it makes sense to take two camera bodies on safari rather than one. The idea is that you’d have your telephoto lens on one camera for wildlife, and a wide-angle lens on the other for landscapes, avoiding the need to swap lenses in dusty conditions.

I actually do this myself. On my recent safaris I’ve taken two camera bodies: my Canon EOS R5 with a 100-400mm lens for wildlife, and a Canon EOS 6D with a 16-35mm lens for wider scenes. This way I don’t have to switch lenses out in the field, which saves time and avoids getting dust on the sensor.

You don’t need two high-end bodies for this to work though. Your second camera could be a compact camera, a bridge camera, or even just your smartphone. On safari, the high-end camera and long lens is really for the distant wildlife. Wider scenes, landscapes, and close-up encounters can be handled by almost anything.

If you want to try the two-body approach but don’t want to invest in a second body, consider renting one for your trip. That way you can test the approach without the full cost.

 

The Best Camera for Safari

I’ve now covered the main features to look for in a camera for safari. I’m now going to provide a list of some of my recommended cameras for safari. This list is not exhaustive as there is obviously a lot of choice out there.

Combining this list with the information on what to look for in a safari camera should give you a good starting point. For those cameras which allow you to change lenses, I also have some recommended safari lenses in the following section.

These cameras are ordered approximately by price, from low to high, but you will of course want to check prices yourself as they do vary. Prices start from around $400 and go to over $4,000 for high end models.

 

Panasonic Lumix DC-FZ80D / FZ82D

If you want a great value camera for safari that is easy to use and has a good zoom, the Lumix DC-FZ80D bridge camera from Panasonic is an excellent option to consider.

Launched in 2024 as a minor update to the 2017 FZ80, this is the lowest priced option in our list of cameras for safari, but you still get a lot of camera for your money.

First, there’s an image-stabilised 20-1200mm (60x) lens with around five stops of stabilisation. That’s paired with an 18.1 megapixel 1/2.3″ sensor which also supports 4K video.

The screen on the back is fixed, but it is touch enabled. The camera is WiFi enabled, and is a lightweight 640g (22.58oz). The main downside is there’s no weather sealing, although that isn’t a surprise at this price point. Battery life is also not spectacular.

However, you do get a great zoom and this is a solid budget safari camera option with a zoom that will let you capture even further away subjects.

Key Specifications: 20-1200mm (60x) focal length, f/2.8-5.9 aperture, 10 images / second, 18.1 megapixel 1/2.3″ sensor

Weight: 640g / 22.58oz

Battery life: 300 shots

Price: Check latest price on Amazon here, B&H here, and Adorama here

 

Canon Powershot SX740

Canon have been making a wide range of cameras for decades, and you’re going to find a few of their cameras in this list. This would be our recommended Canon option if you’re looking for a great value compact camera with a good zoom for safari.

For your money you get a 1/2.3″ 20.3MP sensor and a 40x optical zoom (24-960mm). As with other compact cameras with a long zoom, it comes with the tradeoff that the maximum aperture only goes to f/3.3, and at maximum zoom, is all the way down at f/6.9. Battery life is also not great at 265 shots and there’s no viewfinder.

Still, it’s one of the best value compact zoom cameras out there especially at this price point, and the price is excellent for what you get. Just don’t expect miracles in terms of image quality or low light performance, especially when zoomed all the way in.

Key Specifications: 24-960mm (40x) focal length, f/3.3-6.9 aperture, 10 images / second, 20.3 megapixel 1/2.3″ sensor

Weight: 299g / 10.55oz

Battery life: 265 shots

Price on Amazon here, B&H here and Adorama here

 

Canon Powershot SX70 HS

Canon’s bridge camera offering is another capable option. It features an impressive 21-1365mm (65x optical) zoom lens, which has a variable f/3.4-6.5 maximum aperture. It’s also one of the lightest bridge cameras on the market, if weight is a consideration.

The lens is optically stabilised, providing up to five stops of stability. The 1/2.3″ sensor offers 20 megapixels, which is enough for most users, especially considering the impressive zoom means you shouldn’t need to crop very much.

It has full manual controls as well as RAW support, and you get both Bluetooth and WiFi connectivity as well as 4K video support.

There are some drawbacks. Image quality at the zoom and wide angles is a little soft, and there’s no touch screen or weather sealing. The screen does flip out and tilt though.

My parents have an earlier model of this camera (they provided the tiger photo earlier in the post) and they have been very happy with the results from safaris in destinations around the world.

A note on availability: Canon has discontinued this model and it may not be available from all retailers. If you can’t find it, the Panasonic FZ80D or the Nikon P950 are good alternatives in the bridge camera category.

Key Specifications: 21-1365mm (65x) focal length, f/3.4-6.5 aperture, 10 images / second, 20 megapixel 1/2.3″ sensor

Weight: 610 g / 21.5 oz

Battery life: 325 shots

Price: Check latest price on B&H here

 

Canon EOS R50

The Canon EOS R50 is one of Canon’s more affordable mirrorless cameras, however despite being available at a more reasonable price point, there is a lot about this camera that makes it great for safari.

First, it’s one of the smallest mirrorless cameras on the market, making it a more lightweight and portable option compared to more expensive models. It also offers great performance for an excellent price.

Specs include a 24.2MP APS-C sized sensor, WiFi, up to 440 shot battery capacity, 4K video support, movable touchscreen and compatibility with all of Canon’s lenses.

There’s no image stabilisation, but there are a great many lenses available which do feature this technology. It’s also not weather sealed.

Another option at a lower price point is the entry-level mirrorless Canon EOS R100. I’d personally opt for the R50 as the R100 loses the touchscreen, which can be very helpful for navigating and selecting a focus point. The R50 also has a wider ISO range and much faster burst shooting capability.

More importantly, the R100 has a much less advanced autofocus system, which doesn’t have animal tracking autofocus and eye recognition. This can be a very helpful feature when trying to get sharp photos on safari. The R50 is only a little bit more expensive and well worth the upgrade in my opinion.

Key Specifications: 15 images / second, 24.2 megapixel APS-C sensor

Weight: 375g / 13.2oz

Battery life: 440 shots (LCD), 310 (EVF)

Price on Amazon here, B&H here and Adorama here.

 

Nikon Coolpix P950

The Nikon Coolpix P950, released in 2020, has a lot going for it. First, you get an impressive 24-2000mm lens, which is an 83x optical zoom. That should be more than enough for any kind of safari photo, and in particular for those of you looking for a camera for bird photography.

The maximum aperture starts at a wide f/2.8, and narrows down to f/6.5 when zoomed in. Given the length of the lens, this is to be expected.

The lens is stabilised, and the stabilisation offers an impressive 5.5 stops of improvement. Sensor wise, you’re looking at a 1/2.3″ 16MP sensor, which offers a good balance between size and low light performance.

Image quality is good although softens as you zoom further in. This is quite common on compact and bridge cameras with big zooms. There is a reason high end mirrorless lenses cost thousands of dollars after all! However, I think most users will be happy with the performance.

The megapixel count isn’t particularly high, but you are unlikely to need to crop much given you have an incredible zoom.

The P950 has support for RAW photography as well as manual modes that let you set shutter speed, ISO, and aperture. There’s also 4K video support as well as WiFi and Bluetooth connectivity options.

There are a few downsides. Battery life is quite low at 290 shots, and the huge lens means this camera is quite heavy for a bridge camera, weighing just over 1 kg (2.2 lb). There’s also no touchscreen, or weather sealing.

Key Specifications: 24-2000mm (83x) focal length, f/2.8-6.5 aperture, 7 images / second, 16 megapixel 1/2.3″ sensor

Weight: 1005 g / 35.4 oz

Battery life: 290 shots

Price: Check latest price on Amazon here, B&H here, and Adorama here

 

Nikon Z50 II

The Z50 II is Nikon’s more entry level mirrorless camera, which features a 20.9MP APS-C sized sensor, which Nikon calls DX sized.

Despite being entry-level, you still get a lot for your money. There’s 30fps burst shooting, 4K video support, a tilting touchscreen display and an OLED viewfinder. You also get Bluetooth and WiFi connectivity, with battery life rated to around 300 shots.

This is a great lightweight mirrorless camera at a good price, however do be aware when comparing this and other mirrorless cameras to other cameras on our round up that you will have to buy a lens as well. It is also compatible with most of Nikon’s lenses via an adaptor, which gives you a huge choice.

It even has some weather-sealing, although the pop-up flash means it isn’t considered as weather-sealed as some of its more expensive siblings.

Key Specifications: 30 images / second, 20.9 megapixel APS-C sensor

Weight: 550g / 19.4 oz

Battery life: 280 shots

Price on Amazon here, B&H here, and Adorama here

 

Panasonic Lumix FZ1000 II

If you like the idea of a bridge camera but would prefer improved image quality and low light performance over a huge zoom, check out the FZ1000 II from Panasonic.

Released in 2019, this camera features a 20.1 Megapixel 1 inch sensor. This means you get better low light performance than bridge cameras with smaller sensors, as well as higher image quality.

Unfortunately, a larger sensor comes with some tradeoffs, namely the zoom. The FZ1000II features a 25-400mm lens, equivalent to a 16x optical zoom. This is on the low end for a bridge camera, but if you’re not too worried about shooting very distant subjects, 400mm is still on par in terms of magnification with mirrorless zoom lenses.

When I go on safari, I find a 400mm lens works fine 99% of the time. The only exception really is for small birds, where a longer lens is nearly always helpful.

The other nice thing about this lens is that it features a wide f/2.8 aperture. This drops to f/4 when zoomed in, which is still very respectable. A wider aperture lets more light in, meaning you can shoot at higher shutter speeds and lower ISO values. The lens is also image stabilised, offering 3-5 stops of stabilisation.

The display tilts and swivels out from the camera and is touch enabled. You also get WiFi and Bluetooth support, as well as a relatively good battery life of 440 shots. Video wise, you get 4K video support. Despite having a larger sensor, the camera is not too heavy at 810 g (1.79 lbs).

There’s no dust or water protection, which is a shame in a camera at this price point, and probably the main downside. Otherwise though, if you are happy with the zoom range, this is a solid option.

Key Specifications: 25-400mm (16x) focal length, f/2.8-4 aperture, 10 images / second, 20.1 megapixel 1″ sensor

Weight: 810 g / 28.5 oz

Battery life: 440 shots

Price: Check latest price on Amazon here

 

OM System OM-1 Mark II

If weight and weather sealing are high on your priority list, the OM System OM-1 Mark II is worth a serious look. This is a Micro Four Thirds camera, which means it uses a smaller sensor than APS-C or full frame cameras, but the upside is that the whole system (body plus lenses) is significantly lighter and more compact.

The OM-1 Mark II has a 20MP stacked BSI sensor, which means it can shoot at very high burst speeds. You get 50 frames per second with continuous autofocus, and a Pro Capture mode that can buffer at 120fps before you fully press the shutter. This means you can capture moments you’d otherwise miss because of reaction time. That’s a feature no other camera in this price range can match.

The weather sealing is the other big selling point. The OM-1 Mark II has IP53 certification, meaning it’s rated for dust and moisture protection. That’s a proper certification, not a vague “some weather sealing” claim. For safari photography in dusty conditions and unpredictable weather, that’s a real advantage.

In-body image stabilisation is rated at 8.5 stops, which is class-leading. Battery life is good at around 500 shots. You get a flip-out touchscreen, 4K video, WiFi, and Bluetooth.

The trade-off is the sensor size. A Micro Four Thirds sensor is about half the area of an APS-C sensor, which means low light performance won’t match the Canon R7 or Sony A6700. The autofocus system, while improved with AI subject detection in this Mark II version, is still a step behind Canon and Sony for tracking fast-moving animals in difficult conditions. If you’re shooting a sprinting cheetah in fading light, a larger sensor camera will have an edge.

But here’s the thing: paired with the OM System 100-400mm f/5-6.3 IS II lens, you get an 800mm equivalent field of view in a package that weighs about 1.6kg total. A comparable reach on full frame would weigh three to four times that. If you’re doing walking safaris, gorilla trekking, or just don’t want to lug heavy equipment around, that weight difference changes your whole experience.

Key Specifications: 50 images / second (AF-C), 120fps Pro Capture, 20 megapixel Micro Four Thirds stacked BSI sensor, IP53 weather sealed

Weight: 511g / 18oz

Battery life: 500 shots

Price on Amazon here, B&H here and Adorama here

 

Samsung Galaxy S26 Ultra / iPhone 17 Pro

I appreciate it’s a little jarring to go from cameras to smartphones, but I know that many of you might not want to take anything other than a smartphone on safari. For many shots, a smartphone will work just fine, especially in those scenarios where the animals are very near.

If you are going to take a smartphone for your safari camera, then you might as well pick the best option. The two contenders I recommend are either the latest Samsung Galaxy S Ultra, or the latest iPhone Pro. I’ve put these together because at this point, most people have likely settled on Android or iPhone.

Specs wise they are not dissimilar for camera technology. The most important feature, and the reason I chose these two phones for safari photography, is that they both have a relatively good optical zoom (by smartphone standards at least). That means you’ll still be able to shoot wildlife that is a little further away and get good results.

Both phones offer a range of photography focused features, from image stabilisation through to powerful computational technology to improve how your images look. If you really want a smartphone for your safari, one of these two options would be our pick.

Price on Amazon for Samsung here, Apple on Apple store here.

 

Sony RX100 VII

If you like the idea of a compact camera but don’t want to sacrifice too much image quality, consider the RX100 VII. Released in August 2019, in our opinion this is one of the best compact cameras for safari that money can buy, and we travel with an earlier version ourselves.

The RX100 VII has an 8x optical zoom, equivalent to a 24mm – 200mm lens. That’s about the absolute minimum focal length we’d recommend for a safari. It also has a 20.1 megapixel 1-inch sized sensor.

The main advantage of the RX100 VII is its autofocus system and burst rate. It can shoot at 20 frames per second, and it has a focus system which can lock on and track subjects very quickly. Sony used the learning acquired from the focus technology in their high-end professional cameras and it shows.

The RX100 also has image stabilisation, a tilting screen and an electronic viewfinder. This is a great all-round compact camera, although it is quite expensive for what is physically a small camera.

Key Specifications: 24-200mm (8x) focal length, f/2.8-4.5 aperture, 20 images / second, 20.1 megapixel 1″ sensor

Weight: 302g / 10.65oz

Battery life: 240 shots

Price on Amazon here, B&H here and Adorama here

 

Sony A6700

Sony have been making excellent consumer oriented mirrorless cameras for a long time, and the A6700 is no exception.

The A6700 has a lot of technology packed into its relatively diminutive body. There’s a 26 megapixel APS-C sized sensor which can shoot at 11 frames per second. It has Sony’s impressive real-time subject tracking which can recognise and track human and animals’ eyes very quickly.

You also get in body image stabilisation, a flip up touch screen, WiFi and Bluetooth connectivity, an impressive 550 shot battery life and weather sealing. All in all, this is a feature packed camera that would be a great option for safari photography when paired with a good telephoto lens.

Key Specifications: 11 images / second, 26 megapixel APS-C sensor

Weight: 493g / 17oz

Battery life: 550 shots

Price on Amazon here, B&H here and Adorama here

 

Canon EOS R7

This mirrorless camera for Canon was launched in 2022, and it is packed with features that make it an excellent choice for a safari camera. In fact, a lot of the technology in this camera, especially around autofocus, is borrowed from Canon’s high-end EOS R3, a camera which retails in excess of $6,000 USD.

At the heart of this camera is a 32.5MP APS-C sized sensor. That is fully image stabilised, and it supports shooting at 15 frames per second (mechanical) and 30 frames per second (electronic).

Perhaps the most impressive feature though is the autofocus. This can identify and track a range of subjects, including animals and birds. I have used this system extensively and it is amazing how well it can lock onto even a fast moving subject to enable you to get sharp shots every time.

You also get a touch-enabled flip screen, weather sealing, Wi-Fi and Bluetooth connectivity, and compatibility with a massive selection of Canon lenses. Battery life is reasonable at 660 shots, and the weight without a lens is also good at 612g / 21.58oz.

If you are looking for an APS-C sensor camera for safari photography, this would be at the top of my list.

Key Specifications: 30 images / second, 32.5 megapixel APS-C sensor

Weight: 612g / 21.58oz

Battery life: 660 shots

Price on Amazon here, B&H here and Adorama here

 

Sony Cyber-shot DSC-RX10 IV

If you love the idea of a bridge camera but don’t want to sacrifice image quality, speed and weather sealing, look no further than the Sony Cyber-shot DSC-RX10 IV. Sony has been leading the way with high performance camera sensors for a number of years, and the RX10 IV is the current pinnacle of their bridge camera offerings.

This is probably the best bridge camera for safari, although as with every decision, there are of course some compromises. The main one being price. This is a premium offering. However, you do get a lot for your money.

To start with, this is a 1″ sensor camera, with 20.1 megapixels of resolution. That is paired with a 24-600mm (25x optical) lens, which will be enough for most safari needs.

The lens starts out at a very wide f/2.4, meaning lots of light can reach the sensor. At 600mm the lens stops down to f/4. This is very impressive, when you consider that a 600mm f/4 lens for a mirrorless camera will set you back five figures! The lens is also stabilised, offering around 4.5 stops of improvement.

You also get one of the fastest autofocus systems in a bridge camera, Wi-Fi, Bluetooth and 4K video, superb image quality, a touch-enabled screen, a weather sealed body, and 24 frames per second shooting speed. There are full manual controls and RAW support.

With all that tech onboard, combined with the relatively large sensor and wider aperture zoom lens, this camera does weigh quite a bit. In fact, at 1095g (2.4lbs) it’s heavier than some larger cameras. However, if quality and performance are your key goals, and you just want an all-in-one camera that will just work, then this camera still offers excellent value for money.

If the price is a bit much, then consider the earlier model RX10 III, which offers similar features at a lower price point. You will lose the touchscreen, and the autofocus and shooting speeds are a little slower.

A note on availability: Sony has discontinued this camera and a successor has not been announced. This has caused prices to fluctuate. The MSRP for this camera is $1,699 USD, and I’d suggest it’s not worth paying more than that. If you can’t find it at a reasonable price, the Panasonic FZ1000 II is the closest alternative, though with less zoom.

Key Specifications: 24-600mm (25x) focal length, f/2.4-4 aperture, 24 images / second, 20.1 megapixel 1″ sensor

Weight: 1095 g / 38.6 oz

Battery life: 400 shots

Price: Check latest price on Amazon here

 

Sony Alpha 7C II

If you like the look of the Sony A6xxx line but want something with a full frame sensor, consider the Sony Alpha 7C II.

Somehow, Sony has managed to fit a full frame sensor into a body that is almost identical in size and weight to the A6600, making it one of the smallest full frame mirrorless cameras on the market today.

They haven’t cut corners in terms of features either. You get a 33MP sensor, 10fps shooting, in body image stabilisation, 4K video, WiFi, Bluetooth, vari-angle touchscreen and weather proofing. It also has excellent animal and people tracking with Sony’s eye-tracking autofocus system.

It even manages 540 shots on a charge. A fantastic option if you want something with a full frame sensor but in a relatively compact size.

The only downside is that it can feel a bit small and fiddly in the hands. However, that is a minor niggle for what is otherwise a standout option.

Key Specifications: 10 images / second, 33 megapixel full frame sensor

Weight: 514g / 18.1oz

Battery life: 540 shots

Price on Amazon here, B&H here, and Adorama here

 

Canon EOS R6 III

Released in late 2025, the Canon EOS R6 III is a major step up from the already excellent R6 Mark II. It features a new 32.5MP full frame sensor, 8.5 stops of image stabilisation, and a much faster burst shooting speed of up to 40 frames per second with the electronic shutter.

The autofocus system can track people, animals, and vehicles, and it now includes the ability to register and prioritise specific faces. For safari, the animal tracking is the key feature here, and it works exceptionally well. Canon has been refining this technology across their lineup and it shows.

You also get Wi-Fi and Bluetooth, a flip-out touchscreen, and a dual card slot setup with one CFexpress Type B and one SD card slot. The camera is dust and drip-proof, which is helpful on safari.

There’s a lens adaptor which will let you use all EF and EF-S Canon lenses with the camera, which opens the door to a massive choice of glass at various price points. This is actually what I do with my own Canon R5, shooting with EF lenses via the adaptor. They work very well.

At $2,799 for the body, it sits well below the R5 II while offering many of the same core features. If you want a full frame Canon for safari without spending R5 money, this is the one to get.

Key Specifications: 40 images / second, 32.5 megapixel full frame sensor, 8.5 stops IBIS

Weight: 699g / 24.7oz

Battery life: 620 shots

Price on Amazon here, B&H here and Adorama here.

 

Sony Alpha a7 V

Sony’s a7 line has been at the forefront of mirrorless camera development for years, and the a7 V, released in late 2025, continues that tradition.

It comes with a full frame 33MP partially stacked sensor, flip out LCD display, WiFi, and a fast autofocus system that includes Sony’s excellent animal and people eye tracking. In-body image stabilisation is rated at 7.5 stops, which is very good.

Battery life is solid at around 580 shots per full charge, and the camera includes weather sealing. This makes it an excellent all-round camera and a strong option for safari.

Sony have been leading the way with autofocus technology for some time, and the a7 V’s subject tracking is among the best available. If you already own Sony lenses, this is the natural upgrade path.

Key Specifications: 30 images / second (electronic), 33 megapixel full frame BSI sensor, 7.5 stops IBIS

Weight: ~690g / 24.3oz

Battery life: 630 shots (EVF)

Price on Amazon here, B&H here and Adorama here.

 

Nikon Z6 III

The Nikon Z6 III, released in 2024, is an excellent all-round mirrorless camera that works very well for safari photography. It features a 24.5MP partially stacked full frame sensor, which enables fast readout speeds and impressive burst shooting at up to 20 frames per second.

The autofocus system includes subject detection for people, animals and vehicles, and it’s been well received by wildlife photographers. Nikon have made big strides with their AF systems in recent years. It’s also weather sealed, has a tilting touch screen, WiFi and Bluetooth, and good battery life.

Where the Z6 III particularly shines is in low light performance. The larger pixels on the 24.5MP sensor (compared to higher resolution alternatives) mean it handles high ISO settings very well. This is directly useful on safari, where you’re often shooting around dawn and dusk when the light is fading but the animals are most active.

Nikon users will appreciate the familiar interface and the fact that it’s compatible with the whole range of Nikon F-mount lenses with an adaptor, in addition to native Z-mount glass.

At around $2,500 for the body, it’s also the most affordable full frame option in this section of the list, making it excellent value for what you get.

Key Specifications: 20 images / second, 24.5 megapixel full frame partially stacked sensor

Weight: ~760g / 26.8oz

Battery life: 340 shots (CIPA, real-world use is typically higher)

Price on Amazon here, B&H here and Adorama here.

 

Canon EOS R5 II / Canon EOS R5

I will admit to being a little bit biased as the Canon EOS R5 is the camera I actually use on a day-to-day basis, and that I have shot my most recent safaris on. I wrote a full review of the R5 here.

The R5 II was released in 2024 as a successor to the original R5. It features an improved stacked BSI sensor (still 45 megapixels), even more advanced autofocus, faster burst shooting at up to 30 frames per second, and improved video capabilities. It’s an exceptional camera by any measure.

For safari, the autofocus system is the headline feature. The animal tracking in both the R5 and R5 II is extraordinary. It locks onto animals’ eyes and tracks them across the frame with a reliability that I still find impressive every time I use it. Combined with the high resolution sensor (which gives you room to crop), the image stabilisation, and the fast burst speed, it’s a phenomenal wildlife camera.

There’s WiFi, bluetooth, a flip out touchscreen, and loads of customisation options so you can set it up to work for you. You also get access to Canon’s massive range of lenses, including the older EF and EF-S lenses via an adaptor.

The R5 II is the one I’d recommend for anyone buying new at this level. It’s currently priced at around $4,299 for the body, which is a significant investment.

However, the original R5 is still a fantastic camera and has come down in price since the Mark II was released. If you can find one at a good price (and they’re increasingly available as photographers upgrade), it’s superb value. I continue to shoot on my original R5 and have no plans to upgrade any time soon. The images it produces are as good as they’ve ever been.

Key Specifications (R5 II): 30 images / second, 45 megapixel full frame stacked BSI sensor

Key Specifications (R5): 20 images / second, 45 megapixel full frame sensor

Weight: 738g / 26.03oz

Battery life: 320 shots (spare batteries are essential)

R5 II price on Amazon here, B&H here and Adorama here.

Original R5 on Amazon here.

 

The Best Lenses for Safari

If you decide to buy a mirrorless camera, then you are going to also need to buy a lens to go with it. Whilst some cameras may come with a lens, in most cases this won’t be ideal for safari as it won’t have sufficient reach.

There are a great many lenses on the market, and they are not generally compatible with different camera systems due to different mounting systems. If you want more background on lenses and what to look for in general, see my guide to the best lenses for travel photography, which breaks down all the terminology in detail.

I’m not going to be able to cover every lens out there, but I will provide a quick rundown of what I think are some of the best options on the market across a variety of camera systems and price points. This should give you some ideas for what to look for.

I’m going to primarily focus on longer focal lengths for wildlife photography, but do also consider bringing a wide-angle lens for the landscape opportunities as well. Ideally, for wildlife photography you want around a 400mm lens if your budget will allow for it.

I will also be recommending zoom lenses, meaning you can change the focal length, as this gives a lot more compositional control compared to a fixed focal length lens. There is a small loss in image quality and maximum aperture as a result, but this is very much worth the trade-off in my opinion for most users.

 

70-300mm Lenses for Safari

Sony, Nikon, and Canon all have at least one 70-300 lens available, which tends to be a fairly reasonably priced offering.

Most of these lenses have a variable aperture of f/4-5.6 and offer a good compromise between size, weight, image quality and affordability.

For example, see this Nikon 70-300, this Sony 70-300, and this Tamron 70-300 for Sony mount. If you are looking for a more budget safari lens, one of these is likely going to be a good pick.

300mm would be the absolute minimum I’d recommend for a lens for safari. However, I appreciate not everyone wants to spend a huge amount on camera equipment, and one of these lenses is a good way to get a reasonable reach in a relatively lightweight package.

 

100-400mm and 100-500mm Lenses for Safari

The 100-400mm and 100-500mm range is the sweet spot for safari photography. 100mm lets you get quite a lot of the scene in shot, whilst 400-500mm will let you zoom in close on most subjects. Most of these lenses come with a variable aperture of around f/4.5 – f/7.1.

As you get beyond 400mm you will start to encounter more issues with atmospheric conditions, including dust and heat haze, which can negate the value of a longer lens in many situations. So, unless you are really into bird photography, I generally recommend this focal range as the sweet spot for safari photography.

For Canon RF mount cameras (R50, R7, R6 III, R5, R5 II), the Canon RF 100-500mm f/4.5-7.1L is the one I’d recommend if your budget will stretch to it. It’s weather sealed, has excellent image quality, and that extra 100mm of reach over a 100-400mm lens is more useful than it sounds. It’s not cheap, but it is the lens I’d buy if I were starting fresh with RF mount today.

If the RF 100-500 is too pricey, the Canon RF 100-400mm f/5.6-8 is a much more affordable alternative. The trade-off is a narrower maximum aperture (f/8 at the long end), which means less light reaches the sensor. This will be noticeable in early morning and late evening shooting. But it’s significantly lighter and cheaper, and the image quality is still good.

I personally shoot with the Canon EF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L IS II on my R5, using the EF-RF adapter. If you’re buying used glass or already own EF lenses, this is still an excellent option. The adapter adds no optical elements so there’s no loss in image quality, and the autofocus works just as well as it does on the native mount. It’s how I’ve shot all my recent safaris.

For Sony, the Sony 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6 GM is a superb lens, and for Nikon, the Nikon 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6 is the equivalent pick.

If you want to save money, third-party options like the Sigma 100-400mm f/5-6.3 is available for several mounts and offers very good performance for less money.

For the OM System, the 100-400mm f/5-6.3 IS II gives you an equivalent field of view of 200-800mm, weather sealing, and 7 stops of stabilisation when paired with the OM-1 Mark II. The whole system weighs about 1.6kg, which is less than some of the lenses listed above weigh on their own.

Generally, I’d advise trying to get the widest aperture you can afford as it will make a big difference in low light situations. But there are good options across a range of budgets here.

 

Other Telephoto Lens Options for Safari

If you want even more reach than a 100-400 or 100-500, there are longer options available. The Sony 200-600 f/5.6-6.3 is excellent for Sony shooters. There is also the Canon RF 200-800 f/6.3-9, but do note that reduced aperture which might be constricting.

If you want more reach but don’t want to spend as much, you can save money by using third party lenses from the likes of Sigma and Tamron for example. Image quality and autofocus speeds might be marginally impacted, but the price difference can be significant.

For example, check out this Tamron 150-600 f/5-6.3, which is available in a range of mounts for different camera systems. You get an excellent focal range, image stabilisation and weather sealing at what is a very reasonable price. Sigma also do a range of 150-600mm lenses for different mounts.

 

Lens and Camera Rental for Safari

A high-end camera and lens can be a very expensive investment, which might not make a lot of sense for one-off usage. You obviously want to get great photos on your trip, but buying an expensive telephoto zoom lens or high specification full frame body that you only plan to use once might not make sense.

In this case, consider renting your camera equipment. A company like Lens Rentals will allow you to rent a lens and a camera body at a much lower cost than buying it outright. They acquired BorrowLenses in 2024, so the catalogues have effectively merged and the selection is now huge. They also give you the option to purchase the gear via their Keeper program rather than return it, which means a rental can effectively work as a 7-day test drive before committing to a purchase.

This is definitely worth looking into if you want high end gear but don’t want to invest into an expensive setup for long term use. You can browse what they have available here.

 

Accessories for Safari

 

Memory Cards

You are going to be taking a lot of photos when on safari. Memory cards are not very expensive these days, and it is worth having a backup memory card as well as plenty of memory.

I recommend at least a 64GB memory card. If you are travelling with a laptop then you can back up your photos as you go. If you prefer to travel light, then you will want to pack many more memory cards so you don’t run out of space on your trip.

 

Spare Batteries

It is definitely worth bringing at least one spare battery for your camera, and ideally two. These are easy to keep on you or in your photography bag and come in handy when you are out all day.

You don’t want to be half way through a busy day and run out of battery, and then potentially miss some great shots. Modern mirrorless cameras in particular can eat through batteries quickly, so a spare or two is definitely a must in my opinion.

 

USB Battery Charger / Power Pack

As well as spare batteries, you might consider bringing a USB power pack and USB powered camera battery charger. This will allow you to charge your camera batteries while on the go from the battery pack (or a USB outlet in your vehicle).

Some locations you stay at on safari may also have limited power outlet availability, especially in the more remote areas or if you are staying in tented camps. In these scenarios, they often have USB power outlets from solar panels, but might not have higher voltage outlets.

In these situations, a USB battery charger for your camera batteries will be invaluable. I travel with both a USB battery pack and a USB powered battery charger for my Canon camera batteries, and it has come in handy many times.

 

Monopod / Tripod

A common question is whether or not you should take a tripod on safari. I would say that in general, for wildlife photography from a vehicle, a tripod is not going to be very useful. There likely won’t be enough room to set it up unless you have a vehicle specifically set up for it.

Another option is a monopod, which is worth considering depending on your vehicle configuration. If you are also likely to be doing foot-based safaris and have big lenses, then a monopod is definitely something to consider.

For example, I used a monopod when shooting chimpanzees in Uganda, a trip which required a hike through the jungle. A monopod allows for very quick movement of your camera, often necessary in wildlife photography, whilst still taking most of the weight off your shoulders.

A good option if you want to pack a tripod for your safari trip but are maybe also thinking you may want a monopod is to bring a travel tripod that can convert to a monopod. You can see our pick of Vanguard tripods on Amazon here.

I’ve been an ambassador for Vanguard for many years now. If you see something on their store that works for your equipment, you can save money using our exclusive Vanguard discount code. This will give you 20% off everything in the Vanguard store.

Just use the code FindingTheUniverse for your discount! This code works in the Vanguard USA, UK, Australia, Spain, and Germany stores.

 

Photography Bean Bag

For vehicle-based photography, the most useful accessory in my opinion is a photography bean bag rather than a tripod or monopod. I used these every day we did vehicle safaris on our recent trip.

Photography bean bags can be placed on the roof of the vehicle for use when looking out a pop-up top, or over a window or window sill for in-vehicle use.

Photography bean bags are normally made out of a durable canvas (or similar material), and have a zipped opening so you can add or remove the contents. These can be polystyrene beads, or you can simply fill them with something environmentally friendly like dried kidney beans when you arrive in a destination.

I used a photography bean bag extensively on my safari trips, and they are really an invaluable item. We have a guide to some of the best options photography bean bags here, but recommend checking out either the Kinesis SafariSack 4.2 or LensCoat LensSack Pro Jr as a starting point.

 

Appropriate Clothing

Whilst this isn’t camera specific, having the right clothing for your safari can improve your overall experience. If you are comfortable and prepared for the weather, you are also likely to get better photos.

Personally, I prefer clothes with lots of pockets where I can store things like spare batteries, lens wipes and lens caps. Most safaris tend to be hot, so you also want lightweight clothing.

A vest is a popular option for photographers such as those by ScotteVest, and I own a couple of these vests. They are great for travel days and airports as well.

For safari specifically, I like the safari focused shirts from Craghoppers. These have a range of features for travel, including being quick-drying and sun proof. They are really lightweight, and are available in safari appropriate colours (light greens and beige are good, blue and black are bad if going to tsetse fly infested areas). Some models, like the NosiLife line, even come with built-in insect repellent.

The main thing I love about them though is that they have lots of pockets and so it’s easy for me to quickly access a spare camera battery without having to root around in my bag. You can get them on Amazon here.

For more packing tips, see our detailed guide to what to pack for safari.

 

Comfortable Camera Strap

A safari trip is going to involve you carrying and using your camera a lot. You are likely going to be bumping along on dirt roads, sticking your head out of the safari vehicle, and hiking along in forests during your trip. So you want to make sure you have both a secure and comfortable camera strap.

It is likely that your camera came with a manufacturer branded strap such as one from Canon or Nikon. This strap may be fine for some people. For others, especially if you have a heavy camera setup, it may not provide enough support or comfort.

I personally use Peak Design straps, as I find them much more comfortable than a standard camera strap. I first bought a Peak Design Slide strap back in 2015 and have never used another camera strap system since. We put together a full review of the Peak Design camera strap system here.

You can purchase them from Peak Design here, as well as on Amazon or B&H Photo.

 

A Good Camera Bag

A safari can be a dusty and bumpy experience, two things that can cause damage to cameras and lenses. To protect your gear in between shoots, I highly recommend getting a good camera bag.

Camera bags are specially designed to provide padding and protection for your gear, and many of them also come with rain covers. This means that you have somewhere safe, protected and padded to put your gear.

Personally, I use Vanguard photography bags and I’ve been an ambassador for Vanguard for many years now. If you see something on their store that works for your equipment, you can save money using our exclusive Vanguard discount code. This will give you 20% off everything in the Vanguard store.

Just use the code FindingTheUniverse for your discount! This code works in the Vanguard USA, UK, Australia, Spain, and Germany stores.

There are of course a range of other camera bags available, you can see the options on Amazon here and B&H Photo here.

 

Camera Cleaning Kit

No matter how well you protect your camera and lens, it is inevitable that it is going to get some dust or dirt on it. To help keep it clean, I recommend picking up a camera cleaning kit. These are normally fairly inexpensive and some come with carrying cases which are handy for travel.

They can come with a range of different items. My recommendation is to get one which includes a blower and a lens cloth like this, which will make it easier to remove the dust.

 

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use my smartphone for safari photography?

You can, and for close-up encounters you’ll get perfectly good results. The latest flagship phones from Samsung and Apple have decent optical zoom and impressive computational photography.

The problem comes with distance. Most wildlife on safari is further away than you’d think, and once you start using digital zoom on a smartphone, image quality drops off quickly. You’ll end up with grainy, blurry images of animals that looked much closer to the naked eye.

If you’re going on a once-in-a-lifetime safari and want photos you’ll be proud of, I’d recommend bringing a dedicated camera with a good zoom. But if you really don’t want to carry anything extra, a high-end smartphone will still capture decent memories.

 

Should I buy or rent camera equipment for safari?

If you already own a camera system and just need a longer lens for safari, renting makes a lot of sense. A two-week rental of a high-end telephoto lens will cost a fraction of buying it outright, and you get to test the gear before committing.

If you don’t own any camera equipment, buying is usually the better long-term investment, especially if you’ll use the camera for other trips and occasions. Start with a versatile body and one good telephoto lens, and you’ll have a setup that works well beyond safari.

A company like Lens Rentals is worth checking out if you want to try renting.

 

What is the minimum focal length I need for safari?

I’d say 300mm is the absolute minimum for wildlife, and 400mm is much more comfortable. At 300mm you’ll get decent shots of larger animals like elephants, giraffes, and lions at moderate distances. At 400mm you have a lot more flexibility.

For bird photography, 400mm is the starting point and 600mm is better. Birds are smaller and often further away, so you need all the reach you can get.

If you’re using a crop sensor camera (APS-C or Micro Four Thirds), remember that the crop factor gives you extra effective reach. A 100-400mm lens on a Canon APS-C camera gives you the equivalent of 160-640mm, which is very good for safari.

 

Is weather sealing important for a safari camera?

It’s helpful but not essential. Safari environments are often dusty, and some destinations can have sudden rain. A weather-sealed camera gives you peace of mind in these conditions.

That said, I’ve used non-weather-sealed cameras on safari without issues. The key is to be sensible: keep your camera in a bag when not shooting, avoid changing lenses in dusty conditions where possible, and bring a camera rain cover just in case. An inexpensive rain cover can protect even a basic camera in a downpour.

 

Should I take two camera bodies on safari?

If you can, yes. Having a telephoto lens on one body and a wider lens on the other means you never miss a shot because you were changing lenses. It also avoids getting dust on the sensor during lens changes, which is a real concern in safari environments.

Your second body doesn’t need to be expensive. I take my Canon R5 with a 100-400mm lens for wildlife, and a Canon 6D with a 16-35mm for wider scenes. A compact camera or even a smartphone works as a perfectly good second camera for general shots and landscapes.

 

What’s the best budget camera for safari?

For under $500, the Panasonic FZ80D is hard to beat. You get a 60x zoom (20-1200mm equivalent), 4K video, and a touchscreen in a lightweight package. Image quality won’t match a mirrorless camera, but the zoom range means you can capture wildlife from a long distance.

For under $1,000, the Canon EOS R50 or Nikon Z50 II (body only) give you much better image quality and autofocus, though you’ll need to budget for a telephoto lens as well.

 

Do I need a tripod for safari?

For vehicle-based safaris, a tripod is generally not practical. There isn’t enough room in most safari vehicles to set one up. A photography bean bag is far more useful. These sit on the vehicle roof or window ledge and give you a stable platform for your camera.

If you’re doing walking safaris or gorilla/chimpanzee trekking, a monopod can be helpful for supporting a heavy telephoto lens. A travel tripod that converts to a monopod gives you both options in one piece of equipment.

 

Is the Sony RX10 IV still worth buying?

Yes, if you can find one at a reasonable price. Sony has discontinued it and there’s no announced replacement, which means prices have been fluctuating. At its original MSRP of around $1,699 it’s still excellent value for what remains the best all-in-one bridge camera for safari.

I wouldn’t pay significantly above MSRP though. If you can’t find it, the Panasonic FZ1000 II is the closest alternative, though with less zoom (400mm vs 600mm).

 

Further Reading

That’s it for my guide to the best safari camera. If you found this useful, you might enjoy some of my other photography content. Here are some articles to get you started.

• I have a detailed guide full of safari photography tips to help you get great photos whatever your camera is. We also have a detailed guide to what to pack for safari
• I have a guide to my favourite photo editing applications, as well as the best alternatives to Lightroom
• Once you’ve taken all your photos you don’t want to lose them! Read our guide to backing up your photos for an idea of how to keep them all safe.
• Wildlife photography can often result in noisy images. See my guide to the best noise reduction software for some ideas on how to get the best out of your photos even when they might be a bit noisy
• We have a guide to how to use a compact camera, how to use a DSLR camera, and how to use a mirrorless camera. We also have a guide to how a DSLR works
• Knowing how to compose a great photo is a key photography skill. See our guide to composition in photography for lots of tips on this subject
• We have a guide to what depth of field is and when you would want to use it.
• We are big fans of getting the most out of your digital photo files, and to do that you will need to shoot in RAW. See our guide to RAW in photography to understand what RAW is, and why you should switch to RAW as soon as you can if your camera supports it.
• You’re going to need something to run your photo editing software on. See our guide to the best laptops for photo editing for some tips on what to look for.
• If you’re looking for more advice on specific tips for different scenarios, we also have you covered. See our guide to Northern Lights photography, long exposure photography, fireworks photography, tips for taking photos of stars, and cold weather photography.
• If you would like to make a living from your photography, see our guide to how to make money from photography
• Colour accuracy is important for photography – see our guide to monitor calibration to ensure your screen is set up correctly.
• If you’re looking for a great gift for a photography loving friend or family member (or yourself!), take a look at our photography gift guide
• If you’re in the market for a new camera, we have a detailed guide to the best travel cameras, as well as specific guides for the best cameras for hiking and backpacking, the best compact camera, best bridge camera, best mirrorless camera and best DSLR camera. We also have a guide to the best camera lenses.
• If you want a camera or lens, but the prices are a bit high, see our guide to where to buy used cameras and camera gear for some budget savings options.
• We have a guide to why you need a tripod, a guide to choosing a travel tripod, and a round-up of our favourite travel tripods

 

Looking to Improve Your Photography?

If you found this post helpful, and you want to improve your photography overall, you might want to check out my online travel photography course.

Since launching the course in 2016, I’ve already helped over 2,000 students learn how to take better photos. The course covers pretty much everything you need to know, from the basics of how a camera works, through to composition, light, and photo editing.

It also covers more advanced topics, including astrophotography, long exposure photography, flash photography, and HDR photography.

You get feedback from me as you progress, access to webinars, interviews and videos, as well as exclusive membership of a Facebook group where you can get feedback on your work and take part in regular challenges.

It’s available for an amazing one-off price for lifetime access, and I think you should check it out. Which you can do by clicking here.

And that’s it! I’d love to hear about your thoughts on wildlife photography on safari, and am happy to answer any questions you have. Just pop them in the comments below and I’ll get back to you as soon as I can.